I recently had to do a virtual fitting for an overseas client. She needed looks for a press trip and instead of flying me out to the US, we edited a concise, capsule wardrobe and sent it to her direct. As part of the process, I ended up trying on looks rather than using a mannequin or model - it’s a useful method of gauging whether or not a look will work.
As a result of this job, it turned out a relaxed trouser suit presented a definite gap in my own everyday wardrobe. Slouchy tailoring exudes androgynous chic, and is both understated but considered. For inspiration look to @PernilleTeisbaek, @TineAndreaa, @_jeanettemadsen_ and @miejuel. It’s a savvy smart/casual hybrid that, like a jumpsuit, offers an easy outfit fix but with potentially double the wear. A blazer can be one of the most used, trans-seasonal hero pieces in your wardrobe and well-cut trousers always stand the test of time.
Forget the conventional use of a suit simply for workwear. I’ll dress the look down with trainers while the weather sorts itself out, and move into warmer weeks with chunky sandals or sliders. A roll neck underneath also offers a strong option for cosy, layered, retro cool – just ensure the tones match to keep things chic. A simple t-shirt and some chunky gold jewellery will help it look more ‘French Vogue’ – and just be careful when going down the shirt route to keep it oversized so it doesn’t feel prim.
The key when buying a relaxed day suit is to gravitate towards the oversized and nothing too structured. Whether single or double breasted, look to wide shoulders and a longer length in the jacket. For trousers, go for loose and long and look out for pleating for extra slouch. Avoid cropped cigarette pants - the idea is to look as though you just slipped on your husbands work suit, not had it tailor-made. A neutral tone looks more contemporary and will probably be a more useful option – think stone, grey or a muted pastel. Any kind of vibrant print is a big no-no and black usually feels too heavy or formal. If you decide a pin stripe is for you, try to go for a linen fabric to make it feel more modern - and be sure to focus on a modern cut to steer it back into fashion mode.
By Malene Birger’s Huxley Blazer (1) and Louisamay trousers (2) are a fab choice - fuss free, elegant beige, and the single pale button has a mildly decorative feel. Tibi are absolute masters of relaxed tailoring. Their SS catwalk show was awash with chic options yet to hit their website, so watch this space. They are always a good investment.
For trainers, think chunky or iconic converse. The ideal bag should have a complimentary slouchy effect, either a tote or pouch style day clutch. Bottega is ideal but there are more affordable versions out there. Tilly Sveaas always delivers on chunky jewellery – a heavy gold necklace is the best accessory you can purchase right now.