An Anti-Ageing Make-Up Masterclass, By Ruby Hammer

Have you stuck to the same beauty routine for years? Well, you could be making mistakes that are ageing you unnecessarily. Whether that’s using unflattering shades, textures or neglecting your best features, we all need to adapt our routines as we change. To help, make-up master Ruby Hammer MBE shares her advice for getting the most out of mature skin...

First, Adapt Your Skincare Regime

“A lot of people stick with the same skincare regime for years, but it’s crucial to adapt your routine as you age. You need to start asking yourself questions to see if your needs are different now, and if they are, you should change things up accordingly. The simplest switches are to add a powerhouse serum – one with vitamin C, collagen-boosting peptides or retinol – and introduce an eye cream that has very targeted benefits on things like fine lines and crow’s feet – Murad’s Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector or Kiehl’s Creamy Eye Treatment with Avocado are both great.”

Look For Creamy Foundations 

“The biggest tip for more mature skin is to avoid foundations that are drying or labelled as matte. These can be ageing as they sink and settle into fine lines fast. Instead, look for formulas that are lightweight and provide just enough coverage. One of my favourites is Clarins’ Everlasting Youth Fluid. It’s incredibly sheer, providing skin with a veil of colour that’s believable, flattering and smooth. Wearing tinted moisturisers instead of foundation also offers a fresher look – NARS and Laura Mercier have great options to suit all skin tones. Likewise, when shopping for blushers or bronzers, cream formulas are best as they add hydration and last for hours. The only time a powder is better is if you’re suffering from hot flushes. The formula is more likely to stay put and not slide down your face every time your body temperature goes up.”   

Use Glitter, But Apply It Sparingly

“It’s wise to steer clear of anything too glittery on the lids or cheeks, as this can look dated and quite ageing. Instead, stick to applying a metallic cream or shimmery gel texture and focus it on one feature to accentuate and define. For instance, a small amount of glittery liner on the upper lids can catch the light and look incredibly sophisticated. Or, try a small amount of cream highlight on the cupid’s bow, cheeks and eyelids for some subtle luminosity.”

Recognise The Importance Of Tools

“No one tool is better than another. Mature skin needs any product to be worked in properly, but that can be with sponges, brushes or your fingers – it comes down to personal preference. My Magnetic Brush set is ideal, as it has three components that can be used in a variety of ways. The magnetic cap and synthetic fibres make it easy to keep your tools and fingers clean, too – which is vital in light of the current Covid climate.”

Invest In A Good Lip Pencil

“If you feel your lips are plump enough, a lip balm followed by a creamy lipstick should be all you need. However, some of us find lip definition feathers and fades as we age, which is where pencils come in. Try using one after you’ve applied your go-to lipstick – this will allow for better definition, but with a much softer look. Use a lip brush for more control and remember to blend the colours evenly so you don’t end up with any harsh lines.” 

Don’t Be Afraid Of Colour

“So many of us have become wary of ‘too much colour’ but it’s worth taking the plunge and having a play. Without some kind of experimentation you’ll end up looking quite washed out. Even a wing of coloured eyeliner – be it rich greens or dark navy – can be fun and low-maintenance. Getting older doesn’t mean you have to change everything – if a shade has worked well for you in the past, then stick with it.” 
 

Keep Your Eyebrows In Shape

“It’s key to ensure all your features are defined, but especially your eyebrows. Neglecting them can be so ageing, yet when done right, they can completely transform and lift your face. Focus on making them as full as possible using a brow pencil in feathered strokes to mimic the appearance of hair. Then, use a gel, running it against the natural growth of the hair and back again for the best results.” 

Never Scrimp On Mascara

"It’s so important to define your eyelashes with a jet-black formula. As we get older, subtle enhancements like this are key, so don’t scrimp on application. Use the brush to get right down to the root for extra volume and depth and take the tip of the wand and use it at the outer edges to extend and widen your eye. Charlotte Tilbury’s new Push Up mascara is incredible – as is Marc Jacobs Lengthening formula and Huda Beauty’s Legit Lashes Double-Ended Mascara. I also love Surratt’s Revelee Lash Curlers – they’re my favourite for a bright-eyed finish."

Finally, Take A Light-Handed Approach

“The most important advice for mature skin is to take a light-handed approach. If you’re too heavy, everything will look thick and caked on. Take your time and apply your make-up in sheer layers. Build up as slowly with a sponge or brushes, and remember, you can always add more, but it’s harder to take it away.”
 

For more tips and advice, follow Ruby Hammer on Instagram. 

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