9 Make-Up Mistakes That May Be Ageing You
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The Mistake: Neglecting Your Eyebrows
The Answer: “Many older women neglect their eyebrows, but it can be so ageing,” says make-up artist and wellbeing expert Lee Pycroft. “Instead, focus on making them as full as possible to continue enhancing the structure of your face. Use a brow pencil in feathered strokes to mimic the appearance of hair, avoiding any harsh, blocky lines. Then go in with a gel to help build volume and bulk – run this against the direction of the hair, before going back the other way again for a fuller effect. For pencils, Benefit has brilliant, cool undertones that are never too red in undertone, unlike some on the market which can show up grey hair. If in doubt, always use lighter colours when it comes to brows and always follow the motto: frame first, then fill.”
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The Mistake: Skipping The Use Of Highlighter
The Answer: “No one – but especially those with mature skin – should shy away from highlighting textures such as powder and cream hybrids,” says A-list make-up artist Florrie White. “They won’t settle into fine lines, and they add light to the complexion when applied softly and in the correct places – such as the top of the apples of the cheeks, the temples and at the inner corners of the eyes. The only rule to follow is to not to go hell for leather with them – nail the placement and you’ve got a soft-focus glow that’s both youthful, fresh and flattering.”
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The Mistake: Wearing Cold, Steely Tones
The Answer: “As a general rule, the more mature should avoid cold, steely tones like greys and ice blues. These can be quite harsh and bright, but in the wrong way,” advises Lee. “Instead, look to warm, copper make-up palettes that include shades of taupe, cream and bronze – anything that’s generally a bit more glowing in pigment and will bring warmth to your skin. These types of shades are guaranteed to suit mature complexions and they’re less likely to show up fine lines or creasing around the skin.”
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The Mistake: Not Prepping Your Skin
The Answer: “Mature women often think the more they cover up with make-up – areas like hyperpigmentation and uneven tone – the better, but actually it’s skincare that should be your focus,” explains Florrie. “Spend a little longer each morning on applying your moisturiser and primers. Add two minutes of upwards massage and gentle strokes. This will help disperse bags under your eyes, tone your jawline temporarily and, in turn, you will use less foundation, which is not only more modern, but will mean you don’t get any flaking or orange streaking. Mature skin needs hydration, so it’s important you never skip this vital step, or nothing will ever adhere properly, or give you that youthful glow we all so want to create.”
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The Mistake: Ignoring The Need For Setting Powders
The Answer: “As we get older, we tend to become even more nervous of powder and some would say don’t use it at all. However, it’s often needed around the eyes where the skin becomes hollower as we age,” explains Lee. “Look to formulas that are very finely milled and contain hyaluronic acid for extra silkiness. Apply it just to areas that need it: for example, where you have less fat on the face and need more dimension. You want to stick to these areas and avoid applying it to the outer edges of your face, as this is where mature skin needs to maintain its luminosity the most.”
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The Mistake: Using Harsh, Dark Eyeliners
The Answer: “Swap your black eyeliners for softer shades like espresso brown, deep purples and emerald greens,” says Florrie. “They still give a beautiful intensity but are less harsh around the eyes and the delicate skin that sits there. Dark black tends to shrink the eyes, especially those who are a bit older and may find their eyes have sunk in more. Having said that, keep using black mascara – it’s far more eye-widening and dramatic than brown mascara.”
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The Mistake: Applying Foundation All Over The Skin
The Answer: “Full-coverage foundation all over the skin is too much for mature complexions,” says Lee. “Instead, be clever in your application and look to sheer formulas that are a step up from tinted moisturiser, but not full coverage. These sit better on the skin. Then you just need to dab on some long-wear concealer where it’s really needed – think under the eyes, around the nose and on lids. You’re guaranteed a more glowy, breathable finish if you take this approach and, naturally, that will make you look more youthful and fresher.”
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The Mistake: Being Too Timid With Colour
The Answer: “When we mature, a lot of us can be timid and forget to play with soft colours on lips and cheeks, but it’s so youthful and flattering,” explains Florrie. “Go to an unbiased counter in Space NK, take advantage of the knowledge of the artists there and be bold to try something different. It will only ever add warmth and radiance – and it won’t look theatrical when you’re properly matched. There are also some shades that are universally flattering, like NARS’s Orgasm and Daniel Sandler’s Watercolour Blushers.”
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The Mistake: Not Spending Enough Time On Mascara
The Answer: “A lot of us forget how powerful mascara can be. As we age, we should spend much more time on getting it right and utilising its benefits,” says Lee. “Try and use it to get a fanned-out effect at the outer corners by pulling the wand through to the tips several times for extra volume. Then take the tip of the wand right into the roots, using a dabbing motion to help build product up quickly. This will give the illusion of more darkness around the lash line – which is essential if your lashes are going grey or fair – and will last far longer than kohl liner. As for the bottom lashes, just target the roots – again with the tip of your brush, to avoid an ageing spider effect. Another option is to leave your bottom lashes bare, often this is just as eye-opening and can look much fresher, too.”
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Visit LeePycroft.co.uk & @FlorrieWhiteMakeUp
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