An Insider's Guide To Bermuda
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An Insider's Guide To Bermuda

Emily Campbell recently returned to the UK after spending three and a half years in Bermuda, where she fell in love with its palm trees, pink sands and candy-coloured houses. Here, the owner and creative director of nightwear brand If Only If fell shares her favourite spots on the island, from luxury hotels to beautiful beaches.
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STAY

Tuckers at the Rosewood

This is an ex-pat institution. It’s everything you could want from a luxury island hotel: manicured grounds, rattan sun loungers, dedicated kids and adults-only pools, and perhaps the pinkest of beaches on the island. During the weekends, it’s full of ritzy New Yorkers who have flown in from the weekend (NYC is a two-hour flight from Bermuda), and everyone dresses up for an evening of cocktails while the kids are let loose on the beach.

Visit ROSEWOODHOTELS.COM

Coral Beach

This is perhaps Bermuda’s most old-school and authentic hotel. It’s where we lived for a month when we arrived and where I ended up shooting our Bermuda collection this summer. It’s famous for its classic cottages – all pale pink clapboard and white jagged roofs. Its sun terrace is one of the most beautiful spots for a summer evening and, as it’s on the south side of the island, perfect for whale spotting during March and April.

Visit CORALBEACHCLUB.COM

The Loren

Bermuda isn’t known for its modern approach to décor (someone once said to me that Bermuda is like the 70s with wi-fi), but the Loren has the most up-to-date look of any hotel on the island. A curved terrace is where guests can do sunrise yoga, and rooms are spacious and comfortable. Thursday nights are always a vibe with the island resident DJ turning up on the terrace for late-night dancing.

Visit THELORENHOTELS.COM

Hamilton Princess

Centrally placed in the capital, this is often the place business trippers stay. An island rule is that tourists can’t rent a car, so being in the hub of everything makes sense, especially for larger families. It’s right on the marina, which is great for yacht spotting, and houses some of the best restaurants on the island, as well as some good concession stores. It also has a great shop of its own with brands like Muzunga Sisters and Anya Hindmarch.

Visit FAIRMONT.COM

The Loren
The Loren

EAT & DRINK

Pearl

If excellent sushi and cocktails are your bag, then this busy spot is one to hit. Ask for a seat on the terrace (unless it’s the height of summer, in which case you will be hugging the aircon inside). Order the chef’s selection – vast and always great.

Visit PEARL.BM

Blue

A word of warning – ask to sit on the sunset terrace. The inside of this establishment gives cruise ship vibes, but the terrace (the clue is in the name) has one of the best sunset views on the island.

Visit BLU.BM

Breezes at Cambridge Beaches

This one’s best reached by boat (you can rent one from Hamilton Harbour) as it’s near some of the most beautiful swimming spots on the island. Breezes is the less stuffy restaurant of this hotel and is right on the beach, serving charmingly simple Bermudian fare.

Visit CAMBRIDGEBEACHES.COM

Tuckers at the Rosewood
Tuckers at the Rosewood

The Pink Beach Restaurant at the Loren

If you want to feel like you are eating in the ocean, this is the place for you. The view along the south coast is breath-taking for watching the moon rise over the Atlantic. The burger isn’t on the menu but is always accepted as a request…

Visit THELORENHOTELS.COM

1609

Part of the Hamilton Princess, this restaurant is built over the ocean with some of the best views of Hamilton Harbour. The fare is good, honest Mexican – ask for a table near the windows as the walls are floor-to-ceiling glass, excellent for turtle spotting.

Visit THEHAMILTONPRINCESS.COM

SHOP

Atelerie

This is a really impressive boutique of multinational brands, all beautifully curated – think Anine Bing, Rails, Loeffler Randall and Isabel Marant. It’s hard to resist picking something up – though be prepared for added duties.

Visit ATELERIETHESHOP.COM

Tabs

When you think of Bermuda, your thoughts inevitably go to two things: the Triangle and the shorts. Tabs makes the best Bermuda shorts on the island – well priced and available in all the colours of the rainbow.

Visit TABSBERMUDA.COM

The Pink Beach Restaurant at the Loren
The Pink Beach Restaurant at the Loren
Breezes at Cambridge Beaches
Breezes at Cambridge Beaches

The Island Shop

This is the best place for little keepsakes and souvenirs, such as china dishes shaped like turtles, local artwork or picture frames. I never miss a chance to add to my fridge magnet collection here.

Visit ISLANDEXPORTS.COM

Tuck Shop

Tuck Shop is famous for its bakery, but pop into the back shop too, where you’ll find a great selection of clothes, including Pink City Prints and Loretta Caponi. Yes, Italian couture behind the iced buns!

Follow @TUCKSHOPBERMUDA

UNSPLASH/SANDRA SEITAMAA

Coral Beach
Coral Beach

DO & SEE

Beaches 

Bermuda is famous for its pink beaches – a result of the broken-down local coral. Some of the best beaches and swimming spots are at public sites like Turtle Bay and Horseshoe Bay. Be mindful to avoid these spots in July and August when cruise ship trippers take over. May and September are the best times to visit.

St Georges

The first town where settlers arrived in Bermuda, St Georges is like a time warp. With its original houses and cobbled streets, it exudes charm. Make sure to stop at the Wahoo Bar & Grill and sit on the terrace, ordering a Bermudian classic: a fish sandwich and a rum swizzle.

Crystal Caves

A great family outing, especially if you get stuck with a wet day. The caves below the island’s surface are truly beautiful, but it’s not for the faint-hearted (lots of stairs!). The tale of how they were discovered is legendary.

Railway Trail

The island doesn’t have much space for hiking, but it does have an excellent route down the centre, following the old railway. My favourite section is above Flatts Village, meandering along the coast and perfect for turtle and ray spotting.

Gombays

A unique performance art full of colourful dancing and drumming, Gombays are a symbol of Bermuda. This folk tradition reflects the island’s blend of Native American, African, Caribbean and British cultures.

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