What You Need To Know About Buying A Luxury Vintage Watch
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What makes a watch ‘vintage’?
Hanushka: A vintage watch is anything over 20 years old, reflecting era-specific design, mechanical craftsmanship and patina from age. Originality, rarity and historical significance are key in enhancing its value, especially if it’s from an iconic brand.
Mari: I’d actually say ‘vintage’ is a subjective term in the watch industry. Some consider a watch to be vintage if it's at least 20 years old, while others say 30. Regardless, choosing a vintage luxury watch can be the perfect way to start a watch collection – and for many, it becomes an obsession. Vintage often means unique models that are no longer in production, or that would otherwise require a waitlist to acquire. Additionally, many vintage pieces can be found at a lower price point.
What are best brands and styles to look out for?
Hanushka: For watch enthusiasts and investors, classic timepieces from brands like Cartier, Rolex, and Patek Philippe have proven to be some of the most reliable investments. In particular, the Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Nautilus has shown a 30% increase in resale value over the past few years. Clients who purchased watches from us just four years ago are now enjoying the gains, proving the investment potential of luxury pieces. Among the most sought-after models are the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, Cartier’s vintage wristwatches and the Vacheron Constantin diamond wristwatch. Collectors are also showing heightened interest in rarer pieces, such as the Cartier St. Petersburg watch, which has cemented its status as a true collector's item.
Mari: On eBay, the top-selling brands over the past year include Cartier, Rolex, Omega, Breitling, and Tag Heuer. Cartier, in particular, is having a resurgence, with models like the Tank Normale and Baignoire – both of which debuted in the 1900s – experiencing a search increase of over 100% compared to last year. For women's watches, there has been a trend toward unisex models, with the Longines Prima Luna, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, and Hermès Cape Cod increasingly popular.
@BijouxMiller
@TheMillenialDecorator; Cartier; HEWI; @BijouxMiller
What should you be looking for and does age affect value and function?
Hanushka: When buying vintage, check for originality, condition, service history and authenticity. Age increases rarity and desirability, but older watches may need more maintenance due to worn parts or outdated movements. Quality brands, well-preserved dials and original components are also key signs to look out for, and significantly boost value and collectability. Another thing I would consider is its availability at initial retail – is it a limited edition? How many were distributed? The fewer there are, the better the resale value. I would also consider the raw materials used… The crystals, are they diamond? If so, what carat? Is it white yellow gold? All of these things contribute to the resale value of a watch. It’s also worth checking on the resale value of a specific item - sometimes it’s useful to keep in mind whether an item will appreciate or depreciate as time goes on. Generally, iconic and classic styles retain or appreciate, whilst more trend-led styles tend to be less ideal investments for resale purposes.
Mari: When shopping for a vintage watch, it's good to understand the differences between automatic and mechanical movements. That way you know that if your watch stops, it may just need to be wound or worn regularly to keep it running. Watch face materials are another consideration – sapphire crystal is more durable against scratches and breakage. If you're purchasing on eBay, look for the blue Authenticity Guarantee tick, which means the watch has been vetted by experts so that you can have full confidence in your purchase at no extra cost.
How do you verify its authenticity?
Hanushka: When shopping for pre-loved items online, especially designer vintage pieces, it’s essential to be cautious. The most important rule when searching for a luxury watch is to verify the reputation and credibility of the seller or platform. Look for reviews, rely on word-of-mouth recommendations, and consult platforms like Trustpilot. Whenever possible, inspect the item in person. If visiting the store isn’t an option, try finding similar styles locally to ensure you're satisfied with how they look and feel. Whatever the platform, ensure it uses a reliable, verified authentication service. Carefully examine item descriptions and photos for signs of wear, damage or alterations, and don’t hesitate to ask for more details if necessary. Other red flags to look out for are mismatched parts, over-polished cases, altered dials and missing paperwork. Watch out for inconsistent branding and verify the history by checking serial/reference numbers, requesting service records, and researching model specifications.
Mari: We always say to become friends with the seller. If you have any doubts, ask for more images or details, especially about aesthetic aspects. However, our expert watchmaker partners at Stoll&Co, carry out a comprehensive, multi-point inspection if the item is eligible for the Authenticity Guarantee service. They check multiple points like the crown, bezel, dial, case, clasp and more. They vet any collateral, such as the inner and outer boxes, ensuring everything matches the listing description and photos. Take a look at seller feedback. Check their profile and read reviews from past customers. eBay also assigns badges like 'trusted dealer,' 'premium service,' or 'top-rated seller' to those with consistent positive feedback, helping you identify reliable sellers.
How do you spot a fake?
Hanushka: To identify a fake luxury vintage watch, start by inspecting the logo for crisp, precise details, and ensure any serial numbers or date codes align with the brand's standards. Feel the material and use a diamond tester to check the authenticity of any diamonds used. Pay attention to the price too – if it's significantly lower than similar items on other resale sites, that’s a potential red flag. If possible, consult a specialist. It’s also crucial to study the brand’s logo closely for changes in font, spacing, and symmetry, as these elements may evolve over the years.
Mari: Spotting a fake can be tricky, which is why we say it's best to leave it to the experts who work with watches every single day. With luxury watches being such a significant investment, eliminating doubts so that you have full confidence is an absolute priority to eBay and why we’ve invested in the Authenticity Guarantee.
Sellier Knightsbridge
Should you expect to see original packaging?
Hanushka: Yes, because original packaging can enhance a vintage watch's value and appeal. It often indicates authenticity and provenance, showing that the watch was well cared for. Original boxes, papers, and accessories can increase collectability and resale potential, making a watch more desirable among enthusiasts and collectors.
Mari: While original packaging and collateral enhances the luxury experience, a lack of them doesn’t necessarily mean the watch isn’t legitimate. If a watch purchased on eBay doesn't include its original packaging, the Authenticity Guarantee team will ensure it is delivered to you in a velvet-style box for protection.
How much should you spend on a good vintage piece?
Hanushka: Prices for good vintage watches vary widely. Affordable options from brands like Seiko and Longines range from £200 to £1,000. Mid-range models from Tudor or Omega typically cost £1,000 to £5,000, and iconic brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe start at £5,000, potentially exceeding £50,000 for rare pieces. In my opinion, a budget of around £2,000 is a healthy amount with which to dip your toe into the vintage watch world for the first time.
Is there anything else worth knowing about the vintage watch world?
Hanushka: There are two factors that have contributed to the surge in investments in high-value, luxury items. The first is supply not being able to match demand for luxury shoppers direct from the brands. Hermès has followed this model for years – limited availability, means the value of items are significantly increasing in the secondary market over the primary market. Limited-edition pieces on our luxury pre-loved platform Sellier sell out within minutes. Second is the rise of resale as a whole. Over the past three years, we’ve seen multiple reputable brands appear in the resale space, meaning luxury consumers are turning to pre-loved more as they are trusted sources of authentic goods.
Mari: The vintage watch market is constantly shifting, with trends continuously evolving. For instance, smaller-faced and dress watches are making a comeback; we've seen a double-digit rise in sales of 23mm, 34mm, and 36mm watches. Additionally, we’re noticing a new trend of celebrities wearing timepieces in unconventional ways, with an increase in searches for watch rings and watch chokers on eBay. Ultimately, choosing a watch is deeply personal, so it's essential that you love whatever piece you wear.
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