Where To Stay, Eat & Visit In Provence
WHERE TO STAY
For Poolside Views:
Hôtel Crillon Le Brave
This boutique hotel is in the picturesque village of Crillon le Brave, surrounded by vineyards and ancient stone buildings. Set across nine Génoise-tiled houses, the hotel has 34 recently refurbished rooms and suites with chic country farmhouse interiors, terracotta floors and antique furniture – some have separate living areas while others have views of the hills. Among the main draws are the heated pool which has panoramic country views, as well as the casual La Table du Ventoux restaurant, a lovely spot for al fresco sundowners. There’s also a fine-dining restaurant headed up by chef Anissa Boulesteix, a bar on the ground floor of Maison Roche, the oldest part of the hotel, and a spa. Guests can also borrow bikes to explore the surrounding villages.
From €350 per night.
Visit CrillonLeBrave.com
For Beautiful Architecture:
Le Moulin
Le Moulin recently reopened its doors after an extensive renovation and now has some of the best interiors on this list. Set in a converted 18th-century mill, the hotel is only a few steps from the historic Lourmarin castle and the winding streets that surround it. Rooms are elegant and reflect the area’s architecture with yellow and ochre colours, plush decorative accents and wicker furniture – the Superior and Family rooms are particularly beautiful. Sample local cuisine at the on-site restaurant, relax by the pool which is shaded by olive groves, and explore the old mill which has been transformed into the village grocery store.
From £250 per night.
Visit Beaumier.com
For An Affordable Stay:
Le Pont de l'Orme
This private and secluded hotel offers fantastic value for money. You’ll find Le Pont de l'Orme in the small village of Malaucène, a peaceful spot where locals enjoy a slow way of life. The B&B has five double bedrooms with simple but tasteful interiors, comfy double beds and lots of natural light. There’s also a shared lounge area, a small pool and garden, and a smart French restaurant with an excellent wine list.
From £120 per night.
Visit PontDelOrme.com
For Hilltop Views:
Chateau Le Cagnard
A great option if you’re planning a trip to the wider Riviera region, Château Le Cagnard is just a 20-minute drive from Nice and has panoramic views of Provence. Set atop a medieval village, you’ll see the town on one side and the Med on the other. During the summer, the hotel is surrounded by floral displays and wildflowers. Guests can stay in rooms with wooden beams, four-poster beds, local artwork and modern en-suites. There’s also a restaurant with a 200-year-old painted ceiling and an outdoor terrace. Ask the staff to help book wine tastings or vineyard tours.
From £175 per night.
Visit LeCagnard.fr
For An Ultra-Luxury Trip:
Airelles Gordes, La Bastide
With beautiful views over Provence’s Luberon valley, Airelles Gordes is set high on a cliff in one of Provence’s prettiest villages. You could easily spend a weekend lounging by the pool and exploring the winding streets around the buildings, but the lavender fields by the Romanesque Abbey of Senanques are just a ten-minute drive away and well worth the trip. Inside the hotel, the décor is regal and opulent, with antiques, stonework and period features. There’s a two-level spa in the old monastery, as well as eateries for all types of guest – imagine Michelin-starred food for dinner and lunch from the Italian trattoria. The concierge can help organise everything from lavender field picnics to bike tours.
From £605 per night.
Visit Airelles.com
For Rosé On Tap:
Ultimate Provence
If you like the idea of staying on a vineyard, Ultimate Provence has guestrooms on its eco-friendly 100-acre estate in La Garde-Freinet. Billing itself as an ‘urban winery’ the vineyard uses modern techniques to harvest the grapes, while the hotel itself has mid-century styling and slick interiors. Guests can lounge by the heated outdoor pool while DJs play chilled music, rent bikes to explore the surrounding areas, book treatments at the spa and order drinks at the UP rooftop bar. You won’t find many eateries in the surrounding areas, but there’s a Mediterranean restaurant with plenty of options – and wine pairings, of course.
From £220 per night.
Visit UltimateProvence.com
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
For A Buzzy Atmosphere:
Côté Cour
Former Top Chef contestant Ronan Kernen recently opened Côté Cour as a traditional French restaurant with a buzzy atmosphere. Diners come here to see and be seen in the impressive dining room with its glass walls and open roof. The menu changes weekly, but expect dishes like tomatoes marinated in cumbava and lemongrass, squash gnocchi with a basil emulsion, and madeleine biscuits with almond mascarpone and apricot sorbet.
Visit RestaurantCoteCour.fr
For A Quick Lunch:
Bienbon
This family run café is a great spot for pastries and coffee or a quick lunch in Saint-Remy-de-Provence. There’s a small menu of healthy dishes that changes – choose from salads, open sandwiches and soups, followed by fruit desserts and patisserie treats. For €30 you can enjoy two entrées, an espresso and dessert. After your meal, browse the adjoining store for homeware and ceramics.
Follow @Bienbon_SaintRemy
For Classic French Fare:
Le Jardin du Quai
This small French bistro is tucked away on a quiet street in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Set in a converted farmhouse, the restaurant serves a daily changing four-course menu made from local market produce. Book a table in the garden to try dishes like terrine with toasted bread and salad, grilled cod with butter and capers, beef tartare, and strawberry fontainebleau.
Visit JardinDuQuai.com
For Michelin-Level Dining:
Mickaël Féval
Chef Mickaël Feval made a name for himself working alongside the likes of Antoine Westermann and Bernard Loiseau. Now, he runs his own restaurant with his wife Olivia, serving creative dishes that showcase the best regional produce. Choose from dishes like flamed sardines with coriander and smoked haddock, rack of veal with Jerusalem artichokes royale and chestnuts, and chocolate mousse with pineapple and passion fruit sorbet.
Visit MickaelFeval.fr
FOR ITALIAN DISHES:
La Bastide de Pierres
La Bastide de Pierres is a lovely casual restaurant in Gordes with quirky interiors and a spacious terrace surrounded by trees. Ideal for long lunches with friends, diners can choose from Neapolitan pizzas, generous bowls of pasta and charcuterie boards. Finish the meal with a classic tiramisu, shot of limoncello and an espresso.
Visit Bastide-de-Pierres.com
For Fine Dining & Views:
Le Relais des Moines
Another Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Relais des Moines overlooks the Massif des Maures and the beautiful village of Arc-sur-Argens. It specialises in Mediterranean dishes with a twist – all beautifully presented. You can sit in the main restaurant with its exposed brick walls or out on the terrace overlooking the valley to try dishes like wild prawns with pea and basil, seabass ceviche with purple artichokes, and lamb cutlets with fava beans and morels.
Visit LeRelaisdesMoines.com
THE VINEYARDS TO VISIT
For Tastings:
Château de Berne
Provence has over 400 vineyards to choose from and Château de Berne is among its most famous. Traces of vine cultivation have been found on the estate dating back to 200 BC and Berne’s reputation for good wine can be traced back to the 18th century. Today, the 370-acre organic estate on the Haut-Pays terroir produces reds, whites and rosés. Open year-round, the tasting room is where you can sample a selection of wines and shop Château olive oil, jam and honey at the on-site store.
Visit ChateauBerne.com
For Award-Winning Wines:
Domaine Mirabeau
Mirabeau has won a string of awards for a reason. Its quaffable Provençal rosés are rated by experts for their fruity notes and mineral finish. You can find Mirabeau’s vineyard on its 30-acre estate in Cotignac. Surrounded by cork oak trees and chestnut groves, you can learn about the regenerative systems in place to protect the ecosystem (alpacas and sheep graze between the vines) and try its four vegan rosé wines. You can even stay at the villa on the estate if you’re after a 12-person guesthouse.
Visit MaisonMirabeau.com
For A Special Glass:
Domaines Ott
Château de Selle is a family run vineyard in Taradeau which benefits from mineral soils and an arid climate. Perched on high limestone inland slopes where it is sheltered from winter frosts, the estate has its own microclimate that produces excellent rosé wines only available in a few five-star hotels in France. Book a tour of the estate or visit for wine tastings to try its signature 2020 cuvée that blends the best grapes from its vineyards.
Visit Domaines-Ott.com
For A Day Trip:
Château Léoube
Anthony and Carole Bamford purchased Château Léoube in the late 90s and restored the derelict 15th-century estate into a working vineyard with a range of organic and biodynamic wines. Set right along the coast, you could easily spend a day at the estate before walking along the beach and stopping for dinner at one of the oceanfront restaurants. You can find souvenirs at the estate’s adjoining boutique and farm shop.
Visit Leoube.com
ANASTASIIA CHEPINSKA/UNSPLASH
WHERE TO VISIT
Gordes
Gordes is one of the most beautiful villages in Provence with its stone hilltop houses and ancient underground caves. There are several art galleries, historic churches – including the Sénanque Abbey which attracts tourists from all over the country – and plenty of nearby lavender fields.
Valensole
Valensole is a small and picturesque village in Provence – and one of the best spots from which to see the lavender fields during the summer months. Along its winding streets you’ll find small boulangeries, flower stalls and boutiques with locally made glassware and lavender beauty products. Look out for the beautiful town hall and the church of Saint-Blaise.
Oppède
This quaint village looks like something from a fairy tale – cobbled streets with tiny cottages, narrow lanes and beautiful vineyards. Hike up the hill to see the historic church and get the best vantage point.
Les Calanques
It’s worth driving towards Marseille to see Les Calanques, a series of unique geological formations made of limestone. A lovely spot for a picnic or afternoon swim, visitors can walk along the sandy beaches and look at the miniature fjords which overlooks turquoise waters. You’ll have to hike or take a boat to reach the rocks, but the journey is worth it for the spectacular views.
HOW TO GET THERE
To get to the east end of Provence (the Luberon, Aix-en-Provence and Marseille) visitors can fly to Marseille Provence airport. To get to the west side (the Cote d’Azur/French Riviera) head to Nice airport which has more direct flights from London airports.
You can also reach Avignon and Marseille by Eurostar from London St Pancras. There are regular departures every week.
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