3 Great UK Weekend Stays
FAYDIT PHOTOGRAPHY
BRISTOL
EAT
Those who know Bristol know it’s a city with lots on offer – plus it’s only an hour and 40 minutes from London. Once you’ve reached the city, make a beeline for one of the city’s many cafés or restaurants for brunch or a light lunch. Along Bristol Harbour, Spoke & Stringer serves breakfast buns and burrito bowls filled with the likes of halloumi and bacon with harissa, and generous portions of scrambled eggs with chilli and slow-roasted pork; while Brace & Browns in the upmarket Clifton area does a great brunch on Saturdays. If you don’t want to have breakfast at your hotel, have it at The Crafty Egg in Stokes Croft. They don’t take bookings and only have a few tables, so if you’re lucky enough to get a seat, we recommend ordering pancakes with crispy bacon or the Turkish eggs with pitta.
For a casual dinner, Wapping Wharf along the harbourside has a great selection of restaurants to choose from. Japanese restaurant Seven Lucky Gods serves quality sushi, while Squeezed is the place to go for relaxed burgers, fries and homemade soda. For something a little more upmarket, book a table at Root, which specialises in modern vegetarian dishes like ricotta dumplings, crispy cauliflower and mushrooms, and burrata with squash. Those in the know return to Pasta Loco for its rotating seasonal menu of fresh pasta time and again. Inspired by the flavours of Florence, dishes are simple and delicious, and the portions generous. Previous menus have included combinations like fettuccini with wild mushrooms, bucatini in a crab bisque and sweet potato and spinach rotolo.
Elsewhere, Wilsons serves creative, innovative cooking, showcasing produce from a small network of local producers, including that of their own farm, through a weekly changing six-course tasting menu, and a daily ‘du jour’ set lunch menu. Since opening in 2016, Wilsons has received critical acclaim and was awarded a Michelin Green Star in 2022. Also last year, the team opened Bread Shop two doors down from the restaurant, selling sourdough, house-cured Koji bacon rolls, excess vegetables from the farm and takeaway drinks every Saturday.
Finally, for great Italian food, look to Casa, which Peter Sanchez-Iglesias launched on the former site of his Michelin-starred restaurant Casamia late last year. Casa sees Peter and his family reimagine their much-loved restaurant, offering a contemporary yet refined take on traditional Italian dining. The popular spot is a sibling to Peter’s Michelin-starred Spanish institution Paco Tapas next door.
VISIT
At the weekends, Bristol’s harbourside is where you’ll find farmers’ markets, small boutiques and breweries. Check out the gothic architecture at Bristol Cathedral, which is just a five-minute walk away, where you can join the Banksy Walking Tour of Bristol to stop at his studio and take in various artworks dotted around the city. The Cathedral Café makes a good pitstop for coffee and a slice of cake.
Whether you’re after vintage shops and homeware stores or wine cellars with plenty of souvenir options, Bristol has it all. Gloucester Road has the most independent shops of any street in the UK, including Fox + Feather, which has a great selection of Scandi homeware and clothing. We also recommend spending an afternoon at Bristol Lido. The outdoor swimming pool is heated throughout the year – non-members can book a two-hour slot to use the facilities, which include a sauna, steam room and hot tub. If you’d rather do some exploring and enjoy a walk, visit Clifton Observatory next to the Suspension Bridge. Dating to the 18th century, the building itself is steeped in history and now has an on-site museum, café and the ‘Giant’s Cave’ – ancient ruins that run underneath the observatory and into the Avon Gorge.
SLEEP
There’s no shortage of cool places to stay in Bristol, but there are a few hotels we love that are worth knowing about. Artist Residence has an outpost inside a former boot factory in St Paul’s, just a few minutes from Bristol’s city centre and Stokes Croft – Factory rooms are ideal for a weekend, while Loft rooms are slightly more spacious and come with roll-top baths. Groups and families will love Mollie’s, a cool motel from the creatives behind Soho House, where you can book rooms for up to four and enjoy American-style dishes at its kitsch diner. The Bristol Harbour Hotel – a grand building that was once the Lloyds and Midland bank HQ – has luxurious beds, a spa set in the vaults and a bar with a creative cocktail list. And this year saw Bristol gain a stylish new pub in the form of Hort's Townhouse. Set in a Grade-II listed building on Broad Street, there’s a glamorous bar and dining room downstairs, as well as 19 boutique rooms above the pub. Rooms upstairs are cosy with high ceilings, plush furnishings and scallop-detailed furniture. Every room has a comfy Hypnos bed, a rainfall shower and some are dog friendly.
LIVERPOOL
EAT
Whether you’re after fine dining options or casual spots for a quick bite, Liverpool has it covered. Eighteen-storey community hub The Plaza recently welcomed a new restaurant in the form of Nord, headed up by chef Daniel Heffy. Menu highlights include burrata with zucchini, mint and hazelnut; fazzoletti pasta with creamy roast leek and black truffle sauce; cod ‘kiev’ with tartare sauce; and duck egg crème brûlée. For fine dining, book a table at The Art School where diners sit in its light-flooded dining room to enjoy modern dishes full of colour, like confit jersey royals with roasted king oysters and wild garlic dressing; rump of lamb with spring greens and asparagus; and baked hake with a smoked anchovy and parsley crust. Barnacle is also worth a visit for sophisticated British plates served in its beautiful blue dining room.
Röski in the city centre is a favourite among locals. The small 28-cover restaurant is a romantic spot with parquet flooring and white tablecloths. Headed up by Anton Piotrowski (winner of Masterchef: The Professionals in 2012), the menu features modern dishes paired with world wines. Diners can choose from the likes of elevated cod and beef fat chips; asparagus with XO sauce; and beef carpaccio with hollandaise sauce. Then there’s Middle Eastern Maray, one of the city’s most popular restaurants – just make sure to book well ahead of time. Start with mezze boards of hummus, hot dips and pickles, labneh and cauliflower bhajis, before moving onto falafels, fried aubergine, salads and grilled meats and fish.
Earlier this year, San Carlo reopened following an extensive restoration project. Alongside a new bar and private dining room, the grand dining room has been reimagined and now offers an opulent and contemporary take on traditional Italian dining with elegant interiors inspired by grand Milanese villas and gardens and the architecture of Piero Portaluppi. On the menu, expect to sample tagliatelle montecarlo (tagliatelle with monkfish and lobster bisque) and ravioli tartufo.
VISIT
Liverpool is one of the UK’s most cultured cities, famed for its musical history and world-class art scene. It’s also famous for its shopping, so set some time aside to visit the independent boutiques and shopping centres like St Johns and Liverpool One. For cool vintage clothes, head to Bold Street where you’ll find stores like eco-friendly Cow as well as Liv, an organic food market and vegan café. Elsewhere, Royal Albert Dock has a few independent womenswear stores, while the Bluecat Display Centre is full of unique homeware and artwork by local artists. The dock is also home to the largest collection of Grade I-listed buildings in the country, the Baltic Triangle and Chinatown, home to Europe’s oldest Chinese community.
For a culture hit, make a beeline for the Georgian quarter with its two must-see cathedrals, the towering gothic Liverpool Cathedral and the brutalist Metropolitan Cathedral. Both are impressive in their own ways and are each well worth a tour. Walk along its cobbled streets to see impressive Georgian townhouses next to traditional pubs and venues like the art-deco Philharmonic Hall.
During a weekend, book tickets for Tate Liverpool or drop into one of its free exhibitions. Currently, there’s an exhibition on JMW Turner (until September) and an ongoing display by South African artist Candice Breitz. The Walker Art Gallery is also worth a visit for its extensive collection of paintings, sculpture and decorative art from the 13th century to the present day, as is the Museum of Liverpool – a great option for grandchildren. The spirit of Liverpool’s most famous export, The Beatles, is very much alive today, and visitors can learn about the band’s origin story at The Beatles Story Museum and pay a visit to The Cavern Club. Music buffs will also appreciate the British Music Experience which charts the rise of pop music from 1945 to the present day.
SLEEP
Liverpool has accommodation options for all budgets. Newcomer The Municipal opened in May, just in time for Eurovision. Set in a Grade II-listed building on Dale Street, the hotel is set over four floors with opulent design details that nod to the building’s past, from vintage furniture to art-deco features. There are 179 rooms, from simple doubles to spacious suites, as well as a restaurant and lounge for drinks and live music in the evenings. It’s also one of the few hotels in the city with a swimming pool.
Another top choice is the boutique Hope Street Hotel which has great city views and minimalist Scandi-chic design. In the Georgian quarter, it’s close to some of the city’s best cultural sites like the Liverpool Philharmonic Hall and both cathedrals. Each of its 89 rooms have large windows and exposed brick, while larger suites have freestanding baths on a mezzanine level. Its restaurant, London Carriage Works, is also worth visiting for hearty British classics made with local produce.
2 Blackburne Terrace is an upmarket B&B in the Georgian quarter. Set in a late-Georgian townhouse, it is filled with an eclectic range of artwork – particularly in the lounge with its marble fireplace and antiques. There are only four rooms, with the staff going out of their way to ensure you have a comfortable stay. Some rooms have views of the cathedral, and all have modern marble bathrooms with Noble Isle toiletries. A generous breakfast is served in the mornings and staff are more than happy to help you plan an itinerary during your stay. Titanic Hotel by Stanley Dock is equally characterful. Plus, rooms are incredibly spacious, offering excellent value for money – doubles start from just £99 per night. The building itself has exposed brick, original vaulted ceilings and neutral interiors throughout. Superior Dockside Rooms have some of the best views and include everything you need for a weekend, including separate living areas and large bathrooms with rainfall showers.
UNSPLASH/RYAN WARBURTON
ALDEBURGH
EAT
One of Suffolk’s most charming seaside towns, Aldeburgh has a seafront lined with pastel-coloured holiday villas, galleries, independent shops and art installations. No trip to Aldeburgh is complete without fish and chips. The Golden Galleon, The Upper Deck and The Aldeburgh Fish & Chip Shop are all owned by the same family. The latter occupies a prime position on the south end of the high street. Regularly voted one of the best in the country, here you’ll find some of this area’s best fried cod, haddock, plaice and scampi – plus, the chips are made with local potatoes. On a Friday or Saturday evening, the queue is the only place to be.
The Suffolk opened in 2022. Its summer pop-up name was ‘L’Escargot Sur-Mer’, a nod to the owner’s connection to Soho institution L’Escargot. In an old coaching inn, a standalone bar is the place for cocktails such as sea buckthorn margarita with tequila, triple sec, lime juice and sea buckthorn purée; and a coral spritz of rosé, rhubarb syrup, blackberry purée, sage and club soda. Bar snacks include oyster thermidor; smoked mussel tempura; and black ham and baron bigod croquettes. In the restaurant itself, expect to sample the likes of lobster bisque with crab toast; dressed Suffolk crab with pickled cucumber; BBQ monkfish tail and samphire; and crab linguini followed by local Pump Street chocolate delice with salted caramel and hazelnut.
On the high street, you’ll find The Lighthouse. This local favourite has been around for over 25 years and offers a relaxing atmosphere across two dining rooms and a courtyard in the summer months. Much of the fish comes straight from the North Sea, meat is provided by KW Clarke in Bramfield, and even the salad leaves come from an individual grower in neighbouring Thorpeness. As well as great takes on classics (think platters of oysters, smoked salmon cured in the restaurant’s own gin, and a fish pie), The Lighthouse serves a decent selection of wines and local beers.
REBECCA DICKSON
VISIT
The pretty town is an old fishing centre and fishermen can still be seen hauling their boats up the steep shingle beach to sell their catch each morning. Whatever the weather, the beach is well worth a stroll. One of the seafront’s most recognisable features is a giant scallop shell that rises from the shingle. Made by local-born artist Maggi Hambling, the sculpture is a tribute to composer Benjamin Britten who lived in Aldeburgh and walked along the stretch of coastline between here and Thorpeness every day. If you want to learn more about Britten, head to The Red House, which once belonged to him and his partner, the singer Peter Pears. Now, it's a small but fascinating museum with a lovely five-acre garden to explore. The farmhouse is home to the couple’s collections and archive, alongside a gallery space, shop and outdoor café. Children will enjoy following the Garden Discovery Trail and learning about the nature.
The town is also home to the annual Aldeburgh Literary Festival and multiple galleries. One of our favourite spots is Aldeburgh Beach Art House, which exhibits paintings and sculptures by some of the most eminent artists – think Picasso, Matisse, Emin, Frost and Blake – with many works for sale (viewing is by appointment only). Isolated on the beach, the Art House is the home of art dealer Caroline Wiseman, who first spotted the tower while taking her morning swim in the sea in 2010. Now transformed, its Aldeburgh Beach Lookout welcomes a new artist, poet, performer, musician or thinker each week as artist in residence, and each residency culminates in an exhibition of new work.
Aldeburgh’s high street is lined with attractive Georgian buildings housing independent shops, galleries and restaurants. One of the best stores is Aldeburgh Bookshop, which has been run by John and Mary James for the last 20 years. You can find just about everything here – ideal if you’re after a holiday read. For a true Aldeburgh souvenir, head to Fishers Gin Distillery, which looks over the shingle beach. Its gin is distilled with local botanicals such as samphire – make sure to book in for a tour and tasting.
REBECCA DICKSON
SLEEP
Back to The Suffolk. As well as the restaurant, rooftop terrace, wine bar and private dining rooms, there are six elegant bedrooms. All come with super king beds topped with Lansdowne Cashmere mattresses and the décor takes its inspiration from the surrounding area, with room names including ‘Orford Ness’ and ‘The Butley’, and a green and purple colour palette inspired by the native Elephant Hawksmoor moth. Bedroom furniture has been sourced from local antique dealers and all rooms come with Roberts radios. Guests will find a shared pantry on the first floor stocked with pre-mixed cocktails and nibbles, which are included in the room rate. They’ll also be treated to an excellent breakfast – think omelette Arnold Bennett with caviar and homemade crumpets with local butter and Marmite.
For an atmospheric group stay, The Martello Tower – the largest and most northerly of a chain of towers in England built to keep Napoleon out – has been transformed into a rental. The quatrefoil-shaped building stands at the foot of the Orford Ness peninsula, between the River Alde and the sea. The landmark is a good place for a family or a group of friends that want a shared experience – the bedrooms are screened from the central living area but not fully divided, so guests have a sense of being in a larger space. The stone-flagged battery on the roof is a great place to open a bottle of wine and watch the boats race from the nearby club.
Finally, tucked away just outside Aldeburgh, Five Acre Barn is one of the country’s most architecturally appealing B&Bs. The restored 19th-century barn acts as a communal area, while a zig-zagging extension houses five bright bedrooms. Pairing an idyllic rural setting with well-crafted modern materials, this spot is available to rent by the room or in its entirety.
REBECCA DICKSON
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