

6 French Hotels We Love
Abbaye Des Vaux De Cernay
Île-De-France
Located south-west of Paris within the Chevreuse Valley, this former 12th-century Cistercian abbey (later owned by the Rothschild family) underwent a €60 million four-year restoration to create a hotel that feels like a members’ club mixed with the charm of a British country manor and a dose of Parisian elegance – no wonder it’s been dubbed the Soho Farmhouse of Paris. Home to 145 bedrooms and suites, the creative force behind the redesign is artistic director of Dior Maison, Cordélia de Castellane. Drawing inspiration from the estate’s rich history, she’s brought each space to life, pairing vibrant, warm interiors with delicate patterns and carefully selected furniture and artworks – think dark wood panelling, marble fireplaces, floral wallpapers by William Morris, leopard print carpets and tartan lampshades.
The accommodation ranges from small, cosy rooms in the eaves to grand signature suites. If you want to splash out, the Suite de la Baronne (in homage to Charlotte de Rothschild) has 180° views over the grounds. Or for something more low-key and ideal for a multi-gen break, book into the hotel’s latest addition, the rustic-chic La Ferme, which opened last September. Just a few minutes’ drive down the road (or a short bike ride along a private woodland path), it’s set across a lovely old farmhouse where young guests are invited to feed and pet the resident donkeys, goats, rabbits and chickens.
This is the ideal place to stay after a Paris city break, but it is also worth travelling to from further afield as, once you’re here, there’s no real need to leave. Set among 185 acres, you’ll be spoilt for choice – the estate’s lake allows guests to pedalo, fish or relax on sailing boats; plus, there are biking trails, tennis courts, a pétanque court, an amazing gaming arcade, art studios, a cinema room and a very swish kids’ club by luxury French kidswear brand Tartine et Chocolat. The spa has seven treatment rooms and a wellness area; there’s a heated outdoor pool and several restaurants serving everything from French fine dining and casual bites to bowls of pasta and wood-fired pizzas.
Rates at Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay start from €300 per night on a B&B basis.
Four Seasons Hotel
Megève
A short drive from Geneva, Megève is one of France’s chicest alpine resorts, founded just over a century ago by Baroness Noémie de Rothschild who wanted France to have its own version of St Moritz. She put the sleepy village on the map and turned it into a playground for Parisian high society and the French aristocracy. Today, the charming village and its surroundings offers much more than just skiing, especially in the summer when it’s the perfect base for some invigorating mountain air, stunning scenery, activities to suit all levels of fitness, as well as pure relaxation. Nestled in between the village and the legendary Mont Blanc summit, Four Seasons Hotel Megève has direct access to the Mont d’Arbois golf course and can organise a variety of adventures and glacial explorations – think hiking, climbing, canyoning, mountain biking, mountain excursions with a chef and gastronomic picnics or BBQs on top of the mountain. The 55-bedroomed hotel is also home to the region’s largest spa and an array of restaurants where you can experience Michelin standard haute-cuisine, Japanese fusion and Savoyard specialities.
Rates at Four Seasons Hotel Megève start from £535 per night, room only.
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Relais De Chambord
Loire Valley
The Loire Valley with its hundreds of palatial castles, idyllic landscapes, pretty villages, gastronomy and some of France’s best wines has attracted visitors for years. The Château de Chambord, commissioned by the 25-year-old King François I in the early 16th century to show off the splendour of the French monarchy, is probably the most iconic Loire château. If you want to wake up with stunning views of this fairytale castle, book into the Relais de Chambord which is situated within the château’s expansive estate along the banks of the Cosson river. This sophisticated 55-room hotel now sits withing a modern wing of the castle’s renovated 17th-century stables – expect splashes of colour, elegant modern furnishings and black and white murals depicting the château. Be sure to opt for a room or suite with castle views or, if you want to splash out, La Toue du Relais was once a traditional flat-bottomed riverboat which has been transformed into a luxe suite for two, docked on the river immediately in front of the château’s entrance.
This is the perfect, tranquil place to get away from it all – guests can explore the grounds, meandering along winding cycle paths through the nature reserve and discover the Renaissance charm of the château itself. Enjoy a brasserie summer lunch on the castle-facing terrace and, in the evening, head to fine dining Le Grand Saint-Michel restaurant which showcases traditional French food through its seasonal menus. The hotel also has a Nuxe spa, steam room, sauna and outdoor Jacuzzi. If you want to venture out, several of the other châteaux of the Loire are within easy reach – Blois, Chenonceau, Cheverny, Chinon, Amboise – and there are several quaint villages to visit too.
Rates at Relais De Chambord start from £119 per night, room only.
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Château De Théoule
Théoule-Sur-Mer
There’s no shortage of fabulous hotels on the French Riviera but for those who’ve been before and now want something a little more unusual, Château de Théoule, which overlooks the port of Théoule-sur-Mer in the Bay of Cannes, hits all the right notes. A former 17th-century soap factory, it was snapped up at the start of the 20th century by a wealthy Scottish lord who transformed it into a fairytale turreted castle. Fast forward to March last year when, following a meticulous three-year restoration, the Château de Théoule opened its doors as a five-star, 44-room hotel with a spa, private beach and Michelin-starred restaurant. The rooms and suites are all different shapes and sizes and are divided between the original crenelated castle and an art deco villa next door – most have a lovely outdoor space with stunning views of the Med. Décor is sleek with sheer drapery and soft colours, and seamlessly blends vintage French antiques, bespoke furnishings and touches of contemporary cool. For a secluded stay, you can also book the charming three-bedroom Maison des Pêcheurs.
The hotel has two dining options. At Michelin-starred Mareluna, chef Francesco Fezza’s menu is a crossroads of three worlds – his native Italy, France and Japan – so expect dishes like squid tagliatelle, snails with nettle and samphire and veal rib-eye with smoked sardines. For a more relaxed setting, La Plage Blanche, the hotel's private beach club, offers a menu of seasonal dishes blending Mediterranean influences with Lebanese touches and Asian flair.
Out and about, the small town of Théoule-sur-Mer on your doorstep has a pretty harbour, several restaurants and cafés and, if you want to be active, there is some good terrain nearby for hiking. The hotel’s prime Côte d'Azur location also puts it within easy distance of several well-heeled Riviera outposts – it’s around a 15-minute drive into the centre of Cannes, with its pretty lanes, museums and fashionable marina; 30 minutes to Antibes with its well-preserved old town and Picasso Museum; and about 40 minutes to Nice, where highlights include the stroll-worthy Promenade des Anglais and the flower market. Back at base, book a treatment at Le Spa du Château – there’s an outdoor treatment cabin, a Jacuzzi, sauna, hammam and two open-air Nordic baths with Med views. The treatment menu includes rejuvenating facials, deep tissue and detoxifying massages and body scrubs.
Rates at Château de Théoule start from £392 per night, room only.
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La Fantaisie
Paris
If you’re after a relaxed stay in the centre of Paris, possibly in August when the city is empty as residents flee for their month-long holiday, La Fantaisie captures the essence of Parisian living. About ten minutes’ taxi ride from the Gare du Nord (perfect if you’re arriving on the Eurostar) and tucked away in the Rue Cadet in the 9th arrondissement, the hotel has a shady, tree-filled courtyard garden (a rarity in a Paris hotel), rooms have Juliet balconies and private terraces, and there’s a chic rooftop bar, all of which make this a tranquil haven from the bustling city, especially in the summer months.
The verdant theme of the garden permeates the flamboyant interiors, the work of renowned Swedish hotel designer Martin Brudnizki. His design plays with botanic maximalism, soft greens mingling with sun-drenched yellows and coral accents, and ceilings blooming with floral frescoes. The floral theme is slightly more restrained in the 63 rooms and ten suites – think bold colours and textures, cane, hessian, petal-like glass, botanical wardrobes, Versailles inspired wallpaper, bespoke furnishings and vibrant marble. The spacious sixth-floor Suite Terrace tops the building and gets our vote as the ultimate urban retreat, with its terrace bordered by wildflowers and with sublime views of the city.
When it comes to eating and drinking, the hotel has a trio of choices. The Restaurant de La Fantaisie with its parquet flooring, floral chairs, conservatory and open kitchen showcases French traditional cuisine with a twist, using seasonal, local ingredients – think seabass carpaccio with lovage gel; razor clams with herbs butter; monkfish medallions with roasted fennel; and ribeye steak, French fries and Béarnaise sauce. The bright and bustling Le Café, which is set at the front of the hotel, attracts both passers-by and hotel guests, and is open for breakfast from 7.30am and for lunch and dinner until 10pm – here, you can enjoy the likes of country terrines, charcuterie platters, escargots as well as more substantial dishes such as beef tartare with roasted baby potatoes and salmon fillet, pilaf rice and beurre blanc sauce. Finally, ascending to the rooftop, the chi chi Le Bar Sur Le Toit awaits – a jewel box of 1920s-style glamour in a swathe of bold pinks, golds and greens where you can enjoy sublime cocktails and small bites.
In the basement, lies the spa, an expansive sanctuary for holistic well-being and relaxation. The emphasis is on water-based therapies, with a Jacuzzi, mineral water pool, hot and cold baths, a sauna and hammam. You can also discover the Holidermie brand’s holistic, vegan products with a range of face and body treatments. There’s also a fitness room kitted out with stylishly timbered gym equipment.
Maybe what we love most about this hotel is that every detail is a sensory indulgence: La Fantaisie’s signature floral scent greets guests upon arrival; elevator soundscapes shift from morning birdsong to a symphonic crescendo by evening; the mini bar has thoughtful touches such as a CBD lip balm and tongue scrapers, and turndown gifts include melatonin and CBD gummies.
Rates at La Fantaisie start from £408 per night on a B&B basis.
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Domaine Le Mouflon D'or
Corsica
Known as the “Island of Beauty” for its stunning beaches, crystal-clear waters, dramatic mountain scenery and pretty villages, Corsica is the Med’s fourth largest island where life moves at a slower pace, especially outside of the main holiday months of July and August. Nestled in the mountain village of Zonza in the rugged Alta Rocca region, this Relais & Châteaux hotel reopened last month after a total refurb by its new owners. The stately early 20th-century residence is set on 50 acres amid ancient chestnut trees and Lebanon cedars and blends Belle Epoque charm with contemporary elegance. The 20 rooms and suites in the main building are light and breezy with diaphanous fabrics and have views of the Aiguilles de Bavella mountain range. Or, for a totally peaceful refuge, you can choose to stay on the edge of the forest in one of the two secluded converted bergeries (sheepfolds) which sleep four.
The hotel restaurant serves Mediterranean cuisine and celebrates Corsican flavours – chef Sébastien Chauchat deliberately limits his culinary compositions to three or four ingredients each in order to preserve the pure taste of produce harvested from his vegetable garden. If you’re after some adventure and want to discover Corsica’s wild beauty, you can explore nearby hiking, biking and canyoning routes, including a section of the famed GR20 trail, then return home to unwind in the heated outdoor pool. Or, for something more leisurely, head to one of the many pretty beaches (about 40 minutes away by car) or to chichi Porto-Vecchio with its walled citadel, narrow lanes, upscale restaurants and smart shops.
Rates at Domaine Le Mouflon D’Or start from £272 per night on a B&B basis.
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