7 Tuscan Hotels For Food Lovers
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VILLA LA MASSA
The Lowdown: 15 minutes from the centre of Florence on the banks of the River Arno and surrounded by acres of parkland, Villa La Massa sits in the heart of the rolling hills of Tuscany and is the perfect countryside base from which to discover the city and retire to after a day of sightseeing. The first records of Villa La Massa date back to the end of the 13th century when it was the summer residence of Florence’s ruling family, the Medicis. In the 1950s, the property was converted into a hotel where Winston Churchill once stayed, as well as Hollywood royalty like Gregory Peck, Elisabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. It was then snapped up at the end of the last century by the owners of Lake Como’s famed Villa d’Este who set about a massive restoration to create the luxe country retreat it is today.
Where You’ll Sleep: In addition to the main buildings, all the outhouses and barns have been converted into stylish accommodation, each with its own identity and magnificent interiors that draw on the property’s Florentine past. In total there are 54 rooms and suites divided between six villas – some of the rooms ooze Renaissance grandeur with canopy beds, tapestries and frescoed ceilings, while others have a more contemporary feel. We love Casa Colonica, once an 1800s farmhouse, which has four suites, a kitchen, a small garden and a charming internal courtyard for eating al fresco – the feel is chic Tuscan country house but will all the perks of being attached to a five-star hotel, making it the perfect pad for a break with family or friends.
For Foodies: The food and the culinary experiences are top notch, as you’d expect. Start your evening in Bar Mediceo, where mixologist Alessio Baneschi can rustle up a mean Negroni (invented in Florence) or one of his signature cocktails based on whatever flowers and herbs are in season in the gardens. If you’re after a fine dining experience, Il Verrocchio has a classic-contemporary Italian menu with a focus on local produce – think roasted artichoke with leeks, aged pecorino and egg; pork sausage and fennel ravioli; guinea fowl with celeriac, kale and walnuts; and turbot steak with roasted cauliflower and black truffle. In the summer months, Bistrot L’Oliveto is more Tuscan-focused – highlights include sharing grazing boards of charcuterie, steak, pastas and pizzas. It is particularly lovely at lunchtime when you can sit under a large umbrella on the patio adjacent to the pool. Most of the vegetables for the hotel’s kitchen are grown in the property’s gardens where the olive trees also produce the finest olive we’ve tasted. And if you fancy recreating the focaccia bread and pizzas back home, chef Stefano Ballarino offers guests one-hour lessons where you can learn the necessary skills.
The surrounding Chianti wine region is famed for its wines and the hotel can organise tours and tastings at some of the top local vineyards. These are available year-round but particularly special during the grape harvesting season in September and October. We visited organic wine estate Colle Bereto, which sits in the valley below the town of Radda about an hour’s drive from Villa La Massa. While the cellars are still in the original buildings, their innovative wine making processes here are far from historic. Alongside the famous Chianti Classico, they also produce a range of more niche labels, all of which you can taste while you enjoy a range of Tuscan specialities, including some of the best antipasti dishes. Or you could simply work your way through the hotel’s list of some of the finest wines in the world – for the ultimate experience, you can book an intimate dinner within the 15th-century wine cellar where you’ll be surrounded by hundreds of bottles ranging in price from reasonable to the dizzy heights nearing €3,000.
Another experience to book for the autumn months is truffle hunting. Led by an expert and the specially trained Lagotto Romagnolos dogs, you’ll get the chance to find the prized Italian white truffle in the woodlands of the nearby Strozzi Estate, followed by a lunch featuring, of course, shavings of truffle.
What Else? Work off any over-indulgences in the 25 acres of gardens which have their own running routes, with a few laps in the infinity pool or a workout in the gym. Or simply relax in the sauna or steam room and book in for a treatment in the spa where you’ll be pampered with products by Santa Maria Novella, the world’s oldest apothecary.
To Book: Rates start from €550, including breakfast. For more details, visit VillaLaMassa.com
CASTELLO DI VICARELLO
The Lowdown: Surrounded by 100 acres of private vineyards, olive groves, farmland and forests, fairytale Castello di Vicarello can be found nestled off the beaten track high up on a hill between Rome and Florence in the Maremmo region of Tuscany (this is where in-the-know Italians like to escape to). It was the remoteness and the stunning views that persuaded Carlo and Aurora Baccheschi Berti to buy the ruined 12th-century castle in the early 80s when only one of the buildings was habitable; they settled here and set about a meticulous restoration and expansion, creating an uber luxe and contemporary country house retreat. Their three sons, Brando, Neri and Corso, two of whom were born on the property, now run the hotel.
Where You’ll Sleep: Each of the ten accommodations has been uniquely designed with an impeccable eye for detail and feature an eclectic mix of textiles and artworks, antiques and furnishings the family has collected on their travels, as well as old family photos, piles of magazines and coffee table books. The modern Spa Suite is all wood and glass with a sauna, steam room and deck with a hot tub; the Torre Suite is at the highest point of the castle under the eaves and has a large sitting room with an open fireplace as well as an outdoor terrace with panoramic views; the Chiesina Suite has to be our favourite – on two floors, it occupies the old chapel in the grounds opposite the swimming pool. Throughout the property, the bathrooms are the most fabulous we’ve seen and come with Aesop products, fluffy robes and Dyson hairdryers.
For Foodies: From the very start when Aurora used to do all the cooking, eating and drinking has always been a part of Castello di Vicarello. Today, the chef gets most of the produce from the organic garden in the grounds where there is a vast variety of vegetables and aromatic herbs. Menus are seasonal and typically Tuscan, the ultimate farm-to-table dining experience –– think mushroom bruschetta, home-made ricotta ravioli, pasta with wild boar (hunted on the estate) and slabs of rare beef alla Fiorentina. In the summer months, a candle lit dinner on the grassy terrace with 360-degree views is hard to beat; or you can dine inside the castle in the glass veranda situated just off the kitchen. The estate also produces an excellent organic olive oil (remember to bring some home) and award-winning wines. The vineyards were planted at the beginning of the century with San Giovese, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes, and if you come here in September you can learn to harvest the grapes and then enjoy a tutored tasting with the eldest son. Later on in the autumn, you can experience the olive harvest and pick olives in the olive groves or go truffle hunting alongside a guide and truffle-hunting dogs. The chef also holds cooking classes – if you want to learn how to make the best and lightest of tiramisus, this is the place.
What Else? The area is made for hiking and there are a series of lovely trails on the estate down to the river and through the vineyards, or you can hire the hotel’s vintage Fiat 500 and head out to explore the local area. There are two pools, a spa, yoga classes and a loving Labrador-cross called Uva who greets all the guests and loves a bit of a cuddle.
To Book: Rates start from €795, including breakfast. For more details, visit CastelloDiVicarello.com
BORGO SANTO PIETRO
The Lowdown: In the heart of the countryside near Siena, but totally secluded within its own 300 acres of countryside, lies family-owned Borgo Santo Pietro. Danish couple Claus and Jeanette Thottrup came across the property in 2001 and have created one of the most magical places in Tuscany. Best described as a collection of chic lifestyle brands, the borgo is home to a 13th-century villa, two restaurants, a cooking school, vineyards, a vast working organic farm, a yacht and a natural skincare brand. The vibe here is very much private residence rather than hotel and the feeling of home pervades throughout the estate, with a story to tell in every corner.
Where You’ll Sleep: Today, Borgo Santo Pietro is home to a collection of 22 uniquely designed suites, each its own personal sanctuary of comfort and style, with lavish furnishings, sumptuous linens, elegant chandeliers, antiques, artworks and stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Choose from a classic room or suite in the main 13th-century villa, a suite with its own garden, or a secluded villa with pool. We love Santo Pietro Grand Suite which presides over the full south wing of the villa with uninterrupted views over the fields and vineyards of Valle Serena – the living area has high-beamed cathedral ceilings and is furnished with antiques, chandeliers and rich upholstered drapes; up the stone carved stairs is a mezzanine equipped with massage facilities where guests can enjoy spa treatments; the bedroom has a huge four-poster bed, open fireplace and French doors leading onto the terrace. If, however, you want to get away from it all and surrender to total privacy in the height of luxury, opt for one of the three sumptuous pool villas – you’ll never want to leave.
For Foodies: Borgo Santo Pietro is a haven for epicureans and makes full use of the region’s finest ingredients. The estate raises its own sheep, chickens, pigs and bees, and produces artisan cheese, free-range eggs, cured pork products and raw honey. The menus in the two restaurants are committed to a farm-to-table ethos. Michelin-starred Saporium’s tasting menus showcase everything the property has to offer as well as seafood from the nearby Tyrrhenian Sea – think snails with nettles; Borgo lamb with artichoke, baked ricotta and green sauce; red mullet, green asparagus and clams; sea bass ravioli with zolfino beans and lemon grass. Trattoria Sull’Albero is more laid back with rustic interiors designed around a large oak tree – here, the menu includes the best pizzas we’ve tasted.
Beyond the restaurants, the state-of-the-art cookery school will teach you how to make ravioli with the help of a local nonna and how to master the finesse of crafting and baking the perfect pizza in a traditional wood-burning oven. Borgo Santo Pietro also has its own wine label that is grown and produced within the estate. You can also book in for wine tastings with the hotel’s expert sommelier – these are available year-round, but October is the best time to visit when you get the added experience of the estate’s wine harvest where the owners host a grape picking session followed by lunch. This is also a good time to go truffle hunting with the estate’s expert and dog.
What Else? The fabulous spa uses the herbal Seed-to-Skin products made on the estate, so be sure to book in for a treatment. In the warmer months, there’s a gorgeous infinity pool or you can go for a dip in the nearby river. In addition to cooking classes, there are flower arranging and art classes, demos of cheese-making and beekeeping, and miles of hiking trails to burn off those extra calories.
To Book: Rates start from €875, including breakfast. For more details, visit BorgoSantoPietro.com
BORGO PIGNANO
The Lowdown: Perched on a hilltop within 750 acres of organic farmland and landscaped gardens, Borgo Pignano is an elegant, restored 18th-century villa surrounded by quaint farmhouses and cottages. Despite its secluded setting, the foodie centres of San Gimignano, Volterra and Pienza are within easy reach should you succeed in tearing yourself away from the views from your pool lounger.
Where You’ll Sleep: With just 28 rooms, suites, maisonettes and villas, Borgo Pignano feels more like a home than a hotel. The style is traditional Tuscan – each accommodation is individually designed with period pieces, canopied beds, elegant drapes, colourful rugs and artworks chosen by the owners. The eight villas have a heated swimming pool and come with an electric buggy and concierge service. For two, we love Maisonette La Legnaia, which was once used to store firewood and overlooks San Bartolomeo church and the medieval walls of the ancient hamlet. La Canonica (the priest’s house), which is located next to the church, dates from the 13th century and contains lots of original features like vaulted ceilings, terracotta floors and restored medieval frescoes. Ideal for a family, it can be booked as a large three-bedroom private house and has an elegant sitting room, fully equipped medieval kitchen with refectory table and, outside, there’s a courtyard draped in vines – the perfect spot for a morning coffee or pre-dinner aperitif.
For Foodies: Most of the produce used by chef Stefano Cavallini for his farm-to-table menus is produced on the estate or sourced locally, which brought him a Michelin Green Star last year. Fine dining Villa Pignano features contemporary and lighter interpretations of traditional Tuscan cuisine – expect the likes of roast partridge with truffle and risotto with chicory, goat’s cheese and prawns. For more casual food, the open air Al Fresco restaurant serves fresh pasta dishes, salads and pizzas. During your stay, you can join cookery sessions to make breads, pastry and fresh pasta from the ancient wheat flours produced from grains grown on the property. Wine tastings are held in the historic wine cellar or overlooking the Tuscan hills, where you’ll learn about both traditional and contemporary wine production methods from the vines that grow on the estate. In autumn months, you can go truffle hunting in the grounds and nearby countryside with a local guide and his dog.
What Else: There is plenty to do here to keep you busy for several days. There are yoga lessons and a gorgeous spa; you can sign up for art classes and learn about beekeeping; you can also help the in-house herbalist gather wild and cultivated herbs to create the perfumes and soaps used in the guest bathrooms. Explore the estate on horseback (the hotel has its own stables) or, for a truly memorable experience, take a guided bike tour (e-bikes are available) of the spectacular Unesco-protected Val d’Orcia National Park. For sporty guests, there’s a lovely tennis court, a half basketball court and an all-weather five-a-side football pitch. Or, best of all, we recommend flopping by the stunning infinity pool that has been carved out of a limestone quarry.
To Book: Rates start from €350, including breakfast. For more details, visit BorgoPignano.com
CASTELFALFI
The Lowdown: Located in the hills between Florence and Pisa, Castelfalfi is set amidst rolling landscape made up of vineyards, olive groves, cypresses and giant pine trees. It includes a castle, a five-star hotel, private villas, an adventure park and a medieval borgo (village) that dates back to Etruscan times. Owned by the Lohia family, the property has recently undergone a multi-million-pound renovation and re-opened last year: the rooms were updated and redecorated, and four suites, a swish spa and a new restaurant were also added.
Where You’ll Sleep: The hotel has 151 rooms and suites and five villas. Rooms in the main building are the most modern, whereas those in the restored historic tobacco warehouse are more traditional, with beamed ceilings and rustic furnishings. The four new signature suites have stunning views and have windows that lead to an outdoor patio and private garden. They’ve been kitted out with bespoke furniture created by local craftsmen and furnished with elegant fabrics and bold colours that reflect the Tuscan landscape. A short distance from the main building, there’s a collection of farmhouses set amongst the wheat fields and cypress trees which are perfect for larger groups or families. Each has its own garden and pool, but guests have use of all the hotel facilities, too.
For Foodies: There are six restaurants overseen by executive chef Davide de Simone, so there’s no shortage of fine dining and choices to suit all tastes. With the resort’s commitment to sustainability, what they all have in common is that the ingredients are sourced from the village farm, organic gardens and local producers. Set within the hotel, the newest restaurant, Olivina, offers guests a fully immersive Tuscan experience with a dedicated wine room, salumeria, bakery, bar and show kitchen. The menu is seasonal and features the likes of venison carpaccio, homemade traditional egg pasta with fresh truffle and Tuscan ribollita from the garden. Il Rosmarinoa is a typical steakhouse and pizzeria; for lighter lunchtime dishes, the Country Clubhouse which is located in one of Castelfalfi’s oldest farmhouses near the golf course and Il Giglio Blu which is next to the swimming pool are both perfect. For private dining or a special occasion, La Rocca is inside the ancient castle and boasts wonderful views of the hills. Pre of post dinner, head to the chic and trendy Ecrù Bar for a cocktail or two. You can also book in for cookery classes, farm tours with wine and oil tastings, and take part in the olive harvest in the autumn.
What Else? In truth, you never need to leave the estate, though it would be a shame not to visit two of our favourite medieval hill towns, San Gimignano and Volterra, both of which are about 30 minutes’ drive away. However, if you want to stay put, there are 40 or so indoor and outdoor experiences to keep you entertained for days on end. Castelfalfi is also home to Tuscany’s largest golf course, or you can play tennis and try your hand at archery. Thrill-seekers will love the adventure park with its zip lines, Tibetan bridges and trails amongst the trees. And finally, for a pampering treat, the new spa is a bright space with a heated indoor/outdoor infinity pool, a steam bath, sauna and jacuzzi and a range of cutting-edge treatments.
To Book: Rates start from €600, including breakfast. For more details, visit Castelfalfi.com
L’ANDANA
The Lowdown: This glamorous and chic hideaway, about two hours’ drive from Florence airport, is also located deep in the lesser-known Maremma region and is surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and fields full of sunflowers. Though you’ll feel you are in the middle of nowhere, the hotel is close to the seaside town of Castiglione della Pescaia as well as several hilltop villages and the Maremma Nature Park that stretches along the coast. Reached by a mile long drive, flanked by cypress trees and pines, the magnificent Medici villa was once the summer residence of the last reigning Grand Duke of Tuscany, Leopold II.
Where You’ll Sleep: There are 33 sunlit and spacious rooms and suites in the main Villa, 14 bedrooms with small kitchens in the more family friendly La Casa; and Il Granaio, which is set in the ancient barn, has ten elegant suites that can be turned into five two-bedroom apartments. In addition, for larger groups, La Scuderia is a four-bedroom private villa with swimming pool, built where the old stables of the estate once were. The décor, which is individual to each room, is best described as grand and baroque – wooden floors, antique bedframes and furniture, rolltop baths and hues of ochre, tan and dusty pink all reflect the surrounding countryside.
For Foodies: Michelin-starred La Trattoria Enrica Bartolini is set in the old granary and turns out exceptional Mediterranean dishes that make use of the olive oil, aromatic herbs and vegetables produced on the property, as well as regional produce and excellent seafood caught locally. The tasting menu is a must, as is the unforgettable signature risotto. Traditional and lighter lunchtime dishes are served at the more informal La Villa that looks out over the pool. The wine list is extensive, much of which is produced from the vineyard that runs alongside the restaurant. You can also enjoy wine tastings with the sommelier.
What Else? Facilities and activities include a golf practice field, a tennis court, a football pitch, horse riding and yoga; there are three swimming pools and you can borrow the hotel’s mountain bikes and e-bikes to explore the local area or nip down to the beach. The lovely Espa spa has a hammam and vitality pool and a choice of pampering treatments – the perfect spot to unwind and relax.
To Book: Rates start from €440, including breakfast. For more details, visit Andana.it
ROSEWOOD CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO
The Lowdown: This is a true Tuscan idyll, with a price to match, but you’d be hard pushed to find a hotel of this calibre anywhere else in Italy. No wonder it was voted the best hotel in the world by Travel + Leisure magazine two years ago. Located just south of Siena on a 5,000-acre estate and surrounded by vineyards and lavender fields, the scenery at Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco is incredible, with 360-degree views of the Val d’Orcia Natural Park and the hilltop town of Montalcino.
Where You’ll Sleep: The property was once a farming hamlet – the medieval square and remains of the church are still there at the centre of the hotel, and the stables and other farm buildings have been converted into 42 spacious suites and 11 villas that are dotted around the estate. Décor is opulent and oozes Italian elegance and style, as if lifted straight from the pages of a glossy interiors’ magazine – think exposed wooden beams, antique furnishings, local textiles and artisanal accessories. The villas have lovely views of the countryside, heated infinity pools, terraces and private gardens, and come with a 4 x 4 car for guests to use during their stay. The largest is Villa Biondi which has five bedrooms, while four-bedroom Villa Casa Del Fiume also has a tennis court.
For Foodies: This is a culinary destination in its own right but it’s first and foremost a working wine estate that produces its own excellent Rosso and Brunello wines. There are daily tours of the winery and tastings, but the best time to visit is during the grape harvesting in September. It is also home to two restaurants, a bar, a pool bar and a cooking school, located in the former priest’s house. Michelin-starred Ristorante Campo del Drago is headed up by Chef Matteo Temperini who creates simple dishes that embody local culinary traditions using produce from the hotel’s organic kitchen garden. Tasting menus are seasonal – expect the likes of scampi from the Mediterranean with juniper, grapefruit and caviar; veal sweetbread with kumquat, wheat and lavender; and roasted local pigeon with Brunello civet sauce and foie gras. Osteria La Canonica is a trattoria-style restaurant and serves traditional Tuscan fare and pizzas.
What Else? The hotel has a lovely spa, tennis courts, a gym and two swimming pools, plus plenty of tracks within the grounds for cycling and walking. The estate also has Italy’s only private golf course, The Club, an 18-hole course designed by legendary champion Tom Weiskopf which guests can use at certain reserved tee times.
To Book: Rates start from €873 per night, including breakfast. For more details, visit RosewoodHotels.com
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