Why You Should Visit Spain’s Costa Brava
The Lowdown: Barcelona has long been one of our favourite destinations for a city break. But if you have a few extra days to spare, hire a car and head north for just over an hour along the coast to the picturesque seaside town of S’Agaró and the Hostal de la Gavina. The family-owned hotel, which sits on a promontory between two delightful beaches called Cala Sa Conca and Sant Pol, celebrates its centenary this year – in the 1920s, the original owner, Josep Ensesa Gubert, convinced his father to create an exclusive garden village overlooking the Mediterranean. At the heart of the project, this grand and elegant retreat fast became the region’s most glamorous and sought-after escape, attracting European royalty, artists, writers, Hollywood stars and A-listers from Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner and Frank Sinatra to Lady Gaga. Today, it is mostly the summer playground for smart Barcelona families who want to escape from the city.
The Vibe: With the fourth generation of the family now in charge, the legendary hotel has withstood the test of time and evolved gracefully over the last century. Expect old-school Spanish grandeur which hits you the moment you enter the vast reception hall with its high ceilings, Hellenic-style pillars, inlaid marble floor, antiques and giant floral displays.
The Rooms: The accommodation also oozes a timeless elegance. Over the last 100 years, the original 11 rooms have evolved into 84 and, this year, two new Garden Suites have been added. Each room or suite is different in size but, whichever you opt for, they all have a luxe palatial feel with parquet floors, silk wallpapers, antiques furniture and chandeliers. Some have large terraces that look out over the Med and some have partial sea views and overlook the landscaped garden with its old pines, magnolias and olive and citrus trees. If you want to splash out, book into the impressive Royal Suite which has recently been restored with Louis XV-style dark wood, natural silks and adorned with magnificent Sèvres vases. For families, the new Garden Suites are ideal and have direct access to the hotel’s gardens from the private patio area. They have been designed to invoke a bygone era of opulence but with a sleek, modern twist in as much as they have an airier, Mediterranean vibe – one has two bedrooms, the other one, and they can be inter-connected. The exclusive Family Residence has two bedrooms, a kitchen and living room with sweeping sea views and a private garden; in addition, hidden in its courtyard is a standalone third bedroom with a separate entrance, making it the ideal option for multi-generational breaks. Guests have full access to the hotel’s facilities but can also stay here in complete privacy.
UNSPLASH/MATHIAS REDING
Food & Drink: On the international foodie scene, this part of the Costa Brava’s pedigree is way up there and boasts Michelin stars galore. Home to the renowned Celler de Can Roca in Girona (twice ranked Best Restaurant in the World), the area was also the location for Ferran Adrià’s legendary El Bulli (now closed). So, it comes as no surprise that, surrounded by such culinary stardom, the dining options at La Gavina are top notch and extensive. For fine dining, Candlelight is overseen by Michelin-starred chef Romain Fornell and spearheaded by 24-year-old sous chef Oriol Fernandez – the tasting menus combine classic, traditional dishes with a modern twist and include the likes of red shrimp from Palamós, grilled lobster, turbot and fillet of beef; poolside Garbi offers healthy Mediterranean dishes – think rice dishes, fresh fish and summer salads; El Barco serves seasonal tapas, as well as sandwiches and burgers – highlights include the anchovies with bread and tomato, the Ibérico ham and the shrimp croquetas; and La Taverna del Mar on the seafront, a five-minute walk from the hotel, is famed for its local seafood – we ate cod fritters, tomato tartare and sea bass baked in salt, followed by the best mango and passion fruit cheesecake we’ve tasted. The wood panelled El Barco bar is great for a post dinner cocktail and guests are often regaled with the story about a row the now-retired barman once witnessed between Ava Gardner and her partner Frank Sinatra in 1951. Having heard that she was having an affair with a bullfighter on the set of Pandora And The Flying Dutchman, Sinatra flew in to check up on her. After a few drinks, she slapped him – but they still got married later that year.
UNSPLASH/JORGE SALVADOR
Things To Do: A wander around the manicured gardens might burn a few calories, as will a few laps of the saltwater pool or a dip in the sea, but for something a bit more rigorous, a brisk stroll along the Cami de Ronda coastal path that winds past the hotel will help shed those extra pounds. The path stretches along the length of the Costa Brava, almost to the French border – setting out from the hotel you’ll walk past stunning, white-washed villas, get glorious sea views and will eventually reach a pretty beach where you can have a drink at the chiringuito. Sporty guests can make use of the hotel’s two clay tennis courts and padel courts, and golfers have the use of two great clubs – Golf Costa Brava and Golf d’Aro – just ten minutes away; or learners can make use of the PGA Catalunya Resort, one of the best golf courses in Spain, which is only 20 minutes away. The hotel can also organise yoga, Pilates and fitness classes during your stay.
For total relaxation, there’s a lovely spa with a heated pool, whirlpool, hammam and sauna, treatments rooms and a gym. Or you could flop on one of the comfortable loungers by the glamorous pool, which is surrounded by Grecian statues, and gaze out at the lovely sea views.
Out And About: Catalonia’s culinary capital, Girona, is about half an hour away and a must-visit. Book with Girona Food Tours for a guided walking tour. You’ll start off with a coffee and local specialty xuixos (pronounced choo choo), a traditional Catalan pastry which is crisp on the outside with a creamy custard filling, followed by a visit to the local food market and shops where you’ll enjoy tastings of jamón ibérico, tapas and local wines. Girona and the surrounding area is home to several Michelin-starred restaurants. Family-run Massana (one star) in the centre of town has been going since 1986 and still has its signature dish from that year on the menu – grilled duck magret with herbal oil, pear and rosemary. The most famous restaurant, probably in the whole of Spain, is El Celler de Can Roca (three stars). Situated on the outskirts of the town, it is run the by the three superstar Roca brothers, whose goal is to create a feast for the eyes, the palate and all the senses – expect fine Catalan dining at its very best. If you want a table here, you’ll need to book months ahead, but you can enjoy a Roca experience at their quirky ice cream shop Rocambolesc in the centre of town – ice lollies come in all sorts of weird shapes or try a panet, a type of brioche that is filled with ice cream and toppings then sealed and toasted.
Do leave enough time to stroll around this formidable medieval city. Take in the Romanesque Banys Arabs, the Basilica de Sant Feliu and the towering cathedral, then cross the Gustave Eiffel-designed bridge towards the arcaded Plac de l’Independencia for a drink in one of the many bars. The Jewish quarter is one of the best-preserved in Spain and dates to the 9th century. Until 1492, Girona was home to Catalonia’s second most important Jewish community (after Barcelona) and the excellent Museu d’Historia dels Jueus celebrates this Jewish heritage.
On the way back from Girona, you could take a small detour and stop off in Púbol to visit the castle Salvador Dalí bought for his Russian wife, Gala. There are very few of Dalí’s artworks here, but the restored 11th-century castle offers an insight into the eccentric and weird life he and Gala led – for instance, he was only allowed to visit with her handwritten permission. Gala is buried in a lonely mausoleum in the basement, dressed in red Dior. Then, head to the medieval town of Peratallada (often billed as one of the most beautiful villages in Spain) – with just over 100 inhabitants, this small town has a very well-preserved historic centre. From here, it’s a 30-minute drive back to the hotel.
We also recommend a boat trip with La Gastronòmica. Run by husband-and-wife team Clara Antúnez and Jaume Montanyà, they’ll take you along the pretty coastline and anchor in a tiny bay for a swim in the crystal clear, azure waters. Lunch is prepared by Jaume, and we feasted on bread and tomatoes, anchovies, local cheeses, Palamós red prawns and a squid and chickpea stew, washed down with excellent Catalonian wines chosen by ex-sommelier Clara.
The Details: Rates at Hostal de La Gavina start from €280 (approx £239) per night for a Classic Room, including breakfast. This year, the hotel closes on 26th October and will re-open next spring.
UNSPLASH/LEYRE
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