Hotel Review: Umana Bali
The Lowdown
At the end of last year, LXR Hotel & Resorts opened its first hotel in south-east Asia, the all-villa Umana Bali. This relatively new Hilton brand is aimed at the discerning traveller looking for exceptional service, uber luxe accommodation as well as authentic local experiences – this means that each hotel has its own character and unique design in line with its location and nowhere is this more in evidence than at Umana Bali. About 40 minutes’ drive from the airport, the resort sits on a clifftop on the Bukit Peninsula overlooking Melasti Beach and the Indian Ocean. This is Bali’s most southerly point which makes it feel quite isolated from the rest of the island – it can take up to two hours to get to Ubud, for instance, though it's only 50km away. So, this is the place to crash and relax, possibly after travelling around the island, though you won’t be short of activities and sightseeing locally should you get itchy feet.
The Vibe
As you arrive at Umana Bali, before you even enter the lobby, you’ll be treated to a traditional Balinese reception – a strike of the gong, a string bracelet tied to your wrist and a frangipani flower tucked behind the ear. This warm hospitality continues throughout your stay – everyone is incredibly helpful and the staff who scoot around in golf buggies will always stop to offer you a lift (much needed, as the resort is set on a steep hill with some of the villas quite a distance from the main area). When LXR took over what was a Banyan property, they set about a major revamp, creating a chic and contemporary resort with heaps of local colour and design touches – in the lobby, for instance, the roof is inspired by the hanging roots of the banyan tree (a spiritually significant symbol in Bali) and the vast chandelier is modelled on the fans held by Balinese Legong dancers.
The Villas
A buggy will whisk you and your bags to your accommodation – one of 72 villas (with one, two or three bedrooms) spread around the grounds that lead down to the top of the cliffs overlooking the ocean. While the villas are quite close to each other, their clever design means they feel very private and quiet, and you never feel overlooked or crowded. Sitting within its own lush garden and walled on three sides, each has views towards the ocean, some sitting close enough to the edge of the cliff to let you fall asleep to the sound of the crashing ocean waves. Even the one-bedroom villas feel spacious with a large sitting room, enormous bathroom with floor to ceiling glass walls that let in lots of natural light, a dressing room and a bedroom from which you can step straight into your private infinity pool (large enough for lengths). The décor feels modern New York apartment with an injection of Balinese touches – think wood, shades of greys and blues and local craftworks. The sitting room opens onto the garden and patio where you can lounge under a gazebo or relax in the hot tub. With the amazing service of your dedicated curator (what they call the butlers and concierges), it’s hard to leave the comfort of your villa – room service is a text away, as is a massage, but nothing beats a floating breakfast which the waiter will set up on large circular tray in your pool. For larger groups, the three-bedroom villas are perfect for a multi-gen holiday – these have enormous 25m pools as well as a spa room, kitchen and dining area and even a grand piano in the sitting room.
Eating & Drinking
If not in the privacy of your villa, most meals are eaten at the main restaurant, Commune – the day starts with breakfast which consists of a large buffet, but you can also order from the à la carte menu. For lunch and dinner, the menu is mainly south-east Asian and the choice of dishes is vast and totally delicious. Recommendations include laksa, soft shell crab, Vietnamese prawn rice paper rolls, pad thai and nasi goreng, and there are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options too. Light snacks are also served at the Pad Pool Bar which is the perfect place to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail. Be sure to book into Mediterranean-inspired restaurant Oliverra for dinner – it is dramatically set clifftop with giant windows and a terrace that offer the most stunning views of the ocean, especially at sunset.
Things To Do
While it is quite difficult to tear yourself away from your villa, do ask the concierge about the vast array of curated activities and immersive experiences on offer. Away from the hotel, these include a helicopter ride over Mount Batur volcano and the southern beaches; visits to nearby holy temples; a soul cleansing ritual at a temple in a cave; a morning walk to Ungasan village with its vibrant market, followed by breakfast in a local home; and an early evening Kecak dance performance at the outdoor amphitheatre by the beach as the sun goes down. Our favourite was the day-long boat trip to Nusa Lembongan Island where we snorkelled, swam with dolphins, sunbathed on deck and ate lobster. Should you want to stay put in the resort, you can book into cookery classes, coffee tastings, arak and wine tastings (yes, Bali produces some fine wines), a sound healing session, yoga classes and some fabulous treatments in the Lohma Spa. The hotel’s enormous infinity pool is stunning and surprisingly quiet, as most guests seem to prefer their own private pool. By the end of the year, you’ll be able to head to the hotel’s brand-new Uma Beach House, situated just below the resort on Melasti Beach, one of the island’s best-known beaches for its pristine white sands.
The Details
Rates for a standard one-bedroom Tropical Garden Pool Villa start from US$845, including breakfast for two. To book and for more information, visit Hilton.com
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