A Pocket Guide To Tresco & The Isles Of Scilly
A Pocket Guide To Tresco & The Isles Of Scilly
Image: DIANNE GILES
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A Pocket Guide To Tresco & The Isles Of Scilly

South-west of Cornwall, the Isles of Scilly offer a staycation escape that’s a world away from the rest of the UK. Just over 2,000 people call its five inhabited islands – St Mary's, Tresco, St Martin's, Bryher and St Agnes – home, plus there are countless uninhabited ones to explore. Loved for its wild landscapes, unspoilt sandy beaches, clear blue waters and exotic gardens, Tresco is our pick – and is a year-round, car-free destination for those wanting a coastal break with a difference. Here’s where to eat, sleep and explore on the island, and what to know about the rest of the main isles.
Image: DIANNE GILES

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Tresco

What To Do

For a long weekend or weeklong getaway, Tresco offers plenty of places to explore – from dramatic rocky outcrops, Bronze Age burial sites and castle ruins to secluded sandy beaches that are readymade for dips, even in spring. While ferries are a popular form of transport for getting to the Isles of Scilly, there’s no better way to get a sense of place – and awe – than approaching by air from Exeter or Penzance. Unlike anything else in the UK, you’ll see the subtropical-looking isles come into view and the impossibly blue sea surrounding them. Of the five inhabited islands, Tresco is the second largest and is the only one of the islands that’s privately owned. It is currently cared for by Lucy and Robert Dorrien-Smith and – for those looking for a true escape from day-to-day life – the island is car free, meaning all travel is done by foot, bike or boat. For those with limited mobility, there are wheelchairs, golf buggies and mobility scooters to hire, but advance booking is essential (contact the Island Office on 01720 422849).

Getting to Tresco from the other islands is easy. Tripper boats usually go from St Mary’s and Bryher twice a day and from St Martin’s and St Agnes about twice a week (the noticeboards on the islands will keep you up to date). You can hire bikes from the Bike Shed at New Grimsby to travel around or borrow a boat, windsurf or kayak from The Sailing Centre at Old Grimsby. If watersports are your thing, there are several great paddleboarding spots across the Isles of Scilly. The team at the Sailing Centre can take visitors to some of the island’s most scenic beaches and hidden bays with quieter waters, and its excursions are set up for beginners.

Tresco Island Spa.
Tresco Island Spa.

If you prefer to stay on dry land, there are plenty of all-levels walking routes around the island. We suggest setting out for a walk around the wild north end of the island, which is great for wave watching and is anchored by two ruined castles atop the cliffs, while the centre of the island is home to bird hides, which are dotted around freshwater pools. As you might expect from an island, Tresco is excellent for beachcombing – two of our favourite beaches are the white-sand Pentle and Appletree bays.

Another place well worth a cycle ride to is Tresco Abbey Garden, which was established in the 1830s. This horticultural hotbed hosts a seriously impressive collection of more than 20,000 exotic plants from all corners of the world, many of which cannot be grown anywhere else in Britain. You could easily spend an entire morning or afternoon here – there are multiple terraces, Mediterranean gardens, green glades and rockeries to explore. Don’t forget to take a look at the Valhalla Figurehead Museum. Housed within the garden, this fascinating collection is a colourful display of figureheads and signage salvaged from the islands’ shipwrecks over the years. The abbey’s garden café is a great spot for a locally made ice-cream, light lunch or cream tea in lovely surroundings – we were really impressed by all the birds we saw while eating – and the shop is a treasure trove of souvenirs and seeds to take home if you’ve been inspired by the green-fingered work being done in the abbey’s grounds.

For a spot of relaxation, make sure to book into the Tresco Island Spa. As well as a swimming pool, sauna and gym, the spa itself has created a range of treatments in collaboration between its therapists and St Martin’s-based organic seaweed skincare brand Phoenix & Providence. The invigorating Sea Salt & Seaweed Scrub used in the spa’s 90-minute massage is made from seaweed harvested on the beaches of St Martin's, as well as SC Salt from the same waters. The treatment is rich in vitamins and minerals that will leave you feeling restored, relaxed and re-energised.

The New Inn
The New Inn

Where To Eat

Those spending a week or so on Tresco have plenty of dining options to flit between. The recently refurbished The New Inn pub at New Grimsby serves serves classic pub fare and seafood dishes – think potted crab on brioche toast, monkfish scampi, and lobster with chilli and garlic herb butter. During the summer months, guests can choose dishes from the Ox Grill on the terrace where chefs cook local produce over hot coals. When it comes to breakfast, The New Inn serves wholesome porridge, fruit, pastries and the ‘Full Scillonian’ – which we highly recommend.

Over at the Ruin Beach Café, on the edge of the water, the wood-fired oven is the star of the show – the team does a great turn in pizzas, seafood pasta, home baked bread and light salads. This beachfront restaurant takes its name from the ruined smuggler’s cottage that forms part of its terrace, overlooking Raven’s Porth. If you’re after a lazy lunch in between swims, make sure to order the seafood platter, which includes a selection of freshly-caught produce, simply prepared. It’s also a great spot for a morning coffee or bottle of wine while overlooking the sunset.

At The Flying Boat Café & Deli, guests can start the day with fresh pastries from Bryher Bakes or a bacon brioche bap, smoothie or Cornish origin coffee. Brunch dishes include baked St Ewe eggs with tomato and rose harissa ragu; and charlotte potato, pea and ham hock hash. In the height of summer, the waterside restaurant is open three evenings a week for a Cornish tapas selection of small plates, aperitifs and organic wines. The daily changing menu could include Newlyn mackerel on rye with sweet and sour beetroot and lime; chargrilled Cornish purple sprouting broccoli with balsamic reduction and shaved Cornish yarg; and Cornish cheese sharing boards.

If you’re staying in one of the island’s self-catering cottages, you’ll get to know Tresco Stores very well. In New Grimsby, the store is like a lovely local farm shop and has everything you need to stock up your cupboards for your stay, from island milk and store-baked bread to Cornish fish, meat, fresh fruit and veg and the big brands central to your weekly shop. There are also plenty of day-to-day essentials and extras such as household goods, fine wines and champagne. If you’re heading out to explore the island, the deli counter is a good place to look for luxe picnic options and, if you’re after an easy win, the team has a decent selection of Cook ready meals. Best of all, once you’ve shopped, the team can deliver to your accommodation – and you can pre-order your first-night dinner and breakfast essentials to arrive before you do.

The Flying Boat Café & Deli
The Flying Boat Café & Deli

Where To Stay

Tresco’s location makes it a great place to consider for multi-generational holidays as well as escapes for couples – and there’s accommodation to suit all setups. Visitors can rent a beachside home for a week or two or a Sea Garden Cottage (which houses from 2 to 10 people), which can be catered or self-catered. The Sea Garden houses are lovely contemporary coastal cottages with views over Tresco’s east coast and the uninhabited islands. Set in beautiful landscaped gardens, just yards from the shoreline, each has a spacious, open-plan living area leading onto a private deck and garden. The rooms are complemented with bespoke fabrics and finished with original artworks inspired by the coast – and The Ruin Beach Café is just steps away.

Alternatively, Tresco also has a range of traditional Scillonian cottages dotted across the island and a number of B&B rooms at the award-winning The New Inn. A cosy seaside pub tucked away down a cobbled street, a recent makeover has resulted in the addition of 16 en-suite bathrooms, all with beautiful sea or countryside views. Guests will find nautical-inspired touches throughout like blue panelled walls and sea-inspired artwork, as well as fresh coffee and homemade biscuits, plus REN toiletries in the bathroom. As with the Sea Garden Cottage, guests who stay at the New Inn are welcome to use the island’s swimming pools, tennis court, gym, jacuzzi and spa.

Ruin Beach Café,
Ruin Beach Café,

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Sea Garden Cottages
Sea Garden Cottages

The Other Islands To Explore

Whether you’re making Tresco your base or looking to island hop, St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association, St Agnes BoatingTresco Boat Services, Endeavour Rib Service, Scilly Sea Safaris and Seaquest Glass Bottom Boat all operate their own boat services offering trips and excursions, as well as regular water taxi services to all the other islands.

St Mary's

St Mary’s is the Isles of Scilly’s largest island (population 1,800) and the gateway to the rest of the islands. Covering an area a little more than six square miles, it will more than likely be your first port of call when you visit the islands. The coastline features large stretches of deserted white sandy beaches, dramatic rocky coves, seascapes, archaeological sites, beautiful walks and scenery along miles of coastal and country paths and nature trails. Hugh Town is the central hub with plenty of shops, churches, a Post Office, cafés, galleries, restaurants and pubs. It has three beaches in close proximity – Porthcressa has a children’s play area close by. Old Town is the other main settlement on St Mary’s – closer to the airport and with its own beautiful beach, it also has a nature reserve, shop, pub and cafés.

St Martin's

With clear waters and pretty beaches, St Martin's is the first island you’ll spot as you cross from the mainland. Just two miles long, it has some of the nicest beaches in the UK, with an abundance of flowers, plant life, rare birds and sea views along the heathery cliff path. Exploring the islets of Nornour, Ganilly and Menawethan from St Martin’s also allows you to spot colonies of seals not far off shore. The 120 or so inhabitants are the creators behind a flower farm and vineyard – both open to visitors – plus a dive school offering underwater activities and snorkelling with seals, silver jewellery designer, bakery and a gallery showcasing local artists.

Sea Garden Cottages
Sea Garden Cottages

Bryher

With impressive Atlantic waves on one side and calm sandy beaches on the other, Bryher is an island of contrast. Home to 80 people, Bryher was the setting of the film When The Whales Came, based on Michael Morpurgo's novel inspired by the island. You can admire the granite stacks on Shipman Head and the entire island is criss-crossed by tracks and dotted with stalls selling fresh produce including farm eggs, local vegetables, freshly landed seafood and island fudge. The Bryher Shop is an excellent spot to purchase local tatty cake and bread. You’ll find it next door to Bryher Gallery, an independent space showcasing local and Cornish artisans. If you’re looking to make an overnighter out of it, the multi-award-winning Hell Bay Hotel is the place to book – it comes with its own spa pool and yoga studio, and has fantastic views.

St Agnes

On the most south-westerly edge of the Isles of Scilly, St Agnes is totally unspoilt. It measures just a mile or so across, and its closest neighbour is Gugh, to which it is joined by a sand bar at low tide. Inland you’ll find quaint cottages and flower fields, while a lighthouse stands at the island’s highest point. There are stone stacks and cairns around Wingletang Down and good beaches including Beady Pool and Periglis Beach, which is known as a shell collectors’ paradise. The island also offers views across to the bird sanctuary of Annet, the Western Rocks and out to Bishop Rock. Don’t forget to factor in time for a drink at The Turk’s Head.

How To Get There

Skybus is the fastest year-round service flying to and from the Isles of Scilly. Visitors can fly from Land’s End, Newquay or Exeter and the journey takes just 20 minutes from Land’s End Airport to St Mary’s, 30 minutes from Newquay Airport, and from Exeter it’s an hour. You’ll fly in a 19-seater plane, where you'll meet your pilot and watch them at work, all adding to the experience. Perfectly timed boat transfers from St Mary’s and a free luggage allowance all adds to the ease of getting there, plus, if you enjoy taking your dog on staycations with you, pets are allowed on flights too.

For more information, visit Tresco.co.uk and follow @TrescoIsland

DIANNE GILES

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