Adeola Gboyega Answers Her Most-Asked Beauty Questions

“Hot weather, humidity and sweat can wreak havoc on how your make-up looks. If you’re after better longevity, the first step is to prep your skin with a light moisturiser – a hydrated complexion helps make-up adhere better and last longer. Similarly, you should apply a good primer that suits your skin – be it oily or dry. Formula is key, so look out for skin tints or foundations that say they will stay put for long periods of time. If it says it is long-wear or waterproof, you can trust it won’t budge. Setting powder is worth investing in, too. You only need the tiniest amount, but a soft dusting will mattify your look, absorb excess shine and help seal everything in for longer. I also love blotting papers, which are ideal for touch-ups throughout the day.”

“This is something we all struggle with to some extent. That’s because dark circles are caused by various factors – including allergies, a lack of sleep and genetics. First, consider what the likely cause is – if it’s hereditary, it’s important to manage your expectations as there isn’t a magical solution, so aesthetic treatments may be the best option. That said, you can tackle darkness in other ways. Some people don’t bother with eye cream but I can’t recommend it enough – especially those that contain what I call the ‘power three’ of vitamin C, retinol and hyaluronic acid. A cream or eye serum that contains these ingredients will boost collagen production, and improve the tone and texture around the eye area. Finally, invest in a colour corrector. Best used before concealer, it will neutralise any under-eye discolouration.” 

“Choosing the right foundation can be tricky as there are endless options. For the best result, you need to know your undertones. Your skin tone can change over time depending on the weather, sun exposure and your age, but your undertones will always stay the same and they will either be cool, warm or neutral. If you are warm, you tend to have yellow, golden and peachy tones present in your skin. Those with a cooler undertone will have a pink, red or blue colouring in their skin. If you’re neutral, you’ll have a mix of cool and warm tones. The best way to test this out is to look at the colour of the veins in your wrist. If they show up as blue, you’re cool; if you see green, you’re warmer; and if it’s a mix of both, you’re neutral. Once you’ve gauged this, it’s easier to test foundation shades on your skin to see which ones work best. Swipe a few shades on your jawline, forehead, neck and chest – that will give you the best idea. When shopping around, don’t be afraid to ask for samples before committing to buying  full-sized bottles so you can see how things look in different lighting.”

“Smokey eyes are easier to do than everyone thinks. The trick is to keep everything simple and stick to three products: an eyeshadow, eyeliner and a mascara. We often think we need to use dark shades, such as grey and black, but you can use anything you want. It’s more about the technique and blending for successful execution. Start by taking an eyeshadow and applying it to the lower lid, blending upwards towards your crease. The eyeshadow should be the most intense at the lash line then blended seamlessly upwards towards the crease to create a gradient effect. Have a clean, fluffy blending brush to hand so you can buff the edges out for a soft, diffused look. Then you can go in with your eyeliner to add further intensity. Finish the look with a couple of coats of black mascara to define your lashes – and that’s it. If eyeshadow is too daunting, use an eyeshadow crayon and just scribble it over your lids, then blend it out with your ring finger. It’s quick and easy to do, and doesn’t require lots of precision.”

“It’s all about balancing a good skincare routine with effective and dedicated treatments. Obviously, prevention is better than cure, so protecting your skin from the sun is crucial – you should wear SPF daily, preferably at least factor 30. Exfoliation is hugely beneficial too. As we age, our skin’s ability to renew slows down, so the cells become dull and lacklustre. Using an exfoliating product will help boost cell turnover for better glow, and skin will feel smoother and more even in tone. I recommend using a chemical exfoliant for this that contains either AHAs or BHAs – both are proven to fade dark spots. If your pigmentation is at an advanced stage, I recommend seeing an aesthetic doctor to discuss skin resurfacing treatments. The most effective include professional chemical peels or a course of laser treatment.”

“Retinol is known as the ‘gold standard’ in anti-ageing for a reason: it’s unrivalled at reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation. It works by speeding up your skin’s cell renewal process and, in turn, promoting collagen production for fresher, firmer and more radiant-looking skin. If you’re a newbie, it may cause sensitivity, so start with a low concentration – 0.1% – a few times a week to minimise irritation and to build up your skin’s tolerance. Make sure you only apply it at night, as it sensitises your skin to UV, so daytime application is best avoided. Always use a retinol alongside a moisturising cream or serum. This will protect your skin’s barrier and cushion any harsh, irritating effects. The results take time, so stick with it – you can expect to see a difference over the course of a month.”

“Contouring and highlighting is a great way to add structure and to define your face. Use a contour product on the hollows of your cheeks, temples and jawline to enhance your features. I recommend applying a cool-toned shade for the most natural definition. Always work with cream-based products as they’re easier to work with and blend, so you never get any stripes or uneven tone. For highlighter, buff the formula into the highest areas of your face – think brow bone, cupid’s bow and cheekbones for a soft, radiant finish that catches the light. Both creams and powders work well, but the latter is better for those looking for more intensity.”

“It’s a personal choice and it should also be fun. There’s no harm in trying colours you’re naturally drawn to. A great place to start is finding a lip shade that matches the natural tones present in your own lips – especially for nudes. Try testing shades in store so you can see how they look and feel. You need to do a test-run as some shades can look entirely different on the skin to how they do in a tube. Take into consideration your skin tone when choosing colours. Typically, fairer skin tones look better in soft, lighter shades and those with a deeper complexion can pull off bolder, rich shades. This is a guideline though and not a rigid rule. Those who want subtle results should try a satin or cream-based formula, as you can build these up to achieve your desired look.”