
A Hollywood Make-Up Artist Answers Our Beauty Questions
Q: What’s the secret to luminous ‘glass skin’?
A: The most important technique to master is making sure your skin looks its best. My secret is to make sure it’s well prepped and looking fresh by using serum and a face tool prior to foundation. I’ve just added Chanel’s new N°1 De Chanel Massage Accessory into my kit. In the shape of a traditional gua sha device, it’s the perfect tool for stimulating and invigorating the skin after a layer of the Revitalising Serum.
Q: What’s the best way to apply foundation for a natural-looking, streak-free finish?
A: I apply foundation using foundation brushes – one for each of the different shades I use, which can be up to three. After the initial application, I use a clean brush to buff it into the skin to get that smooth, seamless finish.
Q: Where on the face should you apply blush for a flattering, lifted effect?
A: Most often, I apply blush onto the apples of the cheeks while my client is smiling. This is to avoid it sitting in any of the lines that show up near the eyes. I also make sure not to get too close to the nose area, as this can drag the face down.
Q: How can you look instantly more awake?
A: My best advice is to brighten the under-eye area and, of course, not apply too much concealer. Also, when filling in your brows, focus on giving yourself a slightly lifted arch as this can lift the whole face. Another tip is to massage your face with a cold tool – this will reduce any puffiness and make your skin look a bit brighter, thus helping you appear more awake. But essentially, the most important thing is to get a good night’s sleep, so you look refreshed.
Q: What’s the best way to cover a spot?
A: First, layer your foundation over the top, then go in with a denser coverage concealer and a very small brush so you can apply the product directly onto the spot. Finally, apply a very slight dusting of loose powder to set it in place.
Q: How can you create the illusion of a fuller brow?
A: If you’ve overplucked in the past, making your brows appear thicker can be tricky. One thing to avoid is a brow pencil in a shade that is too dark as this can look quite harsh. First, fill in what you can with a pencil. Then, gently layer a lighter-than-you-think tone of brow powder to set it. Sometimes the best approach is to go with a minimal brow look instead of trying to paint on something that is not there.
Q: What style of make-up works best on hooded eyes?
A: For hooded eyes, I’d recommend a medium-to-slightly-deeper tone. Avoid applying light-coloured eyeshadow onto the hood because this can make it stand out more. What you’re trying to do with your eyeshadow is create the appearance of a pushed-back hood which will make the eye look more open. I also think focusing on mascara – one of those classic products I’m never without in my kit is Chanel’s Le Volume – will help you look awake and reduce the heavy feeling of a hooded eye.
Q: What can you do to prevent your lipstick from bleeding?
A: This can be avoided by applying a primer around the lip area or a lip pencil. Both products act as barriers to contain the pigment and stop it from spreading. Also, choosing a long-wear formula with a non-transferable finish will really help your colour stay locked in place.
Q: How can you contour for a subtle, sculpted effect?
A: My tip for contouring beginners is to pay close attention to the shade. Avoid anything too warm, orange or dark – a good rule of thumb is to pick a colour similar to that of a facial freckle. Focus on the perimeters of the face (under the chin and the jawline) then suck in your cheeks and sculpt out the hollows of your cheekbones. Also, for people who have a broad forehead, contouring a bit around the hairline can be really flattering.
Q: What is the best way to stop mascara from clumping?
A: To avoid clumps, apply coats of mascara in fine layers and give them a bit of drying time in between. If your lashes do start to clump, you can fix them by using an eyelash comb. This tool can be extremely effective, but some versions are actually quite sharp, so do use with caution. Sometimes it’s better to remove the product altogether and start again. Definitely don’t use safety pins – it makes me cringe when I see people do that.
Q: How can you create a controlled glow?
A: Use a small brush and a very finely milled highlight powder, like the Chanel Jeux de Lumières Multi-Use Eyeshadow and Highlighter Palette. With a small brush head you can really keep the glow subtle, limiting it to the tops of the cheekbones or on the tops of the brow bones.
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