My Beauty Back Catalogue: Ruby Hammer
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@RubyHammer
The Early Memories
My earliest memory of ‘beauty’ is of my mum. I used to watch her cooking, but as soon as she had her shower, got dressed and put her make-up on, she was the picture of a Bollywood star. She was the most glamorous person I knew, along with her Sri Lankan, French and Lebanese friends. They’d go to cocktail and dinner parties, and always made such an effort. That sense of elegance was passed onto me, but it was my mum who taught me the importance of self-care. I’m not sure it truly sank in when I was a child – I was a bit of a tomboy – but the transformative power of make-up has always fascinated me.
I moved to the UK at the age of 12; we were holidaying in London when the Bangladesh Liberation War broke out, so we stayed put. It was a complete culture shock in every way – from the freezing cold to the pop bands and cultural references, all of which were unfamiliar to me. I had to pay attention and pick out the things that felt relevant to me. Was it the Bay City Rollers, David Cassidy, Donny Osmond? What were people looking at? It was a matter of standing back, observing and trying to learn.
The Experimentation Era
When I was allowed to start wearing make-up at around 15, we were living in Putney. I remember spending ages in Boots at the local shopping centre, and I especially loved Max Factor’s roll-on lip gloss. Soon after, I got my first Saturday job at Harrods – that’s when I started looking at brands like Biba and Stagelight, copying looks from magazines and trying to adapt them to suit my colouring.
I wasn’t obsessed with one particular trend because I experimented in every way possible – I never wore the same make-up two days in a row. I used to have a rainbow-striped sweater, so one day I decided to paint rainbow stripes on my eyes to match. But the one major beauty mistake I made in my teens was overplucking my brows. I just kept plucking and plucking until there was nothing left but one thin line of hairs – I looked as though I was permanently startled! Once they were shaped properly, I was able to maintain that, but I do remember not being allowed out for that entire summer holiday until they grew back. I also used to sleep in my make-up from the night before, thankfully I know better than to do that now!
@RubyAndMillieBeauty; @RubyHammer
The Need-To-Know Tips
My career started when I was asked to help out backstage at London Fashion Week. I eventually created looks for the major fashion magazines and worked on supermodels like Kate Moss and Cindy Crawford, as well as working alongside photographers like Patrick Demarchelier and David Bailey. I learnt so much about make-up artistry from my assisting days, but there are a few standout tips that I still swear by today. You must work in a hygienic way and have the proper tools – whether they’re brushes, sponges or your fingers, just make sure you have them in front of you. Do your research and understand that texture is just as important as colour. Whether something is matte, creamy, glittery, shiny or pearlescent – it all matters. Most importantly? Blend, blend, blend.
The Trailblazing Brand
Ruby & Millie (a brand I co-founded with Millie Kendall which launched in 1998) was extraordinary. From the concept and packaging to formulas and teaming up with Boots to create something that looked and felt special, we are incredibly proud of the entire brand.
We launched it in Harvey Nichols and Selfridges to compete with Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, and yet it was still only £10 for a lip gloss.
The Individual Approach
The most important thing for me is to let my client’s skin shine through and make the most of their features. I’m not one of those artists who wipes out all of someone’s features only to recreate them, like the late, great Kevyn Aucoin. He was a genius, erasing features and putting them back in line with his vision. But I’m not that kind of make-up artist, nor am I avant-garde like Pat McGrath. But in my own way, I instil confidence and shine a light on every subject that sits in front of me. I want those who sit in my chair to feel good about themselves.
@RubyAndMillieBeauty
The Current Outlook
At 62, I’ve learnt what works for me and what doesn’t. I’m much more pared back with my make-up than I was in my youth. My one non-negotiable is quality skincare. I also love a good concealer, but as with everything, I’m not heavy-handed. I love lip balm and I think your eyes aren’t complete without some mascara. My other essentials are a multi-purpose product, an eyeshadow palette, something for your brows, whether that’s a powder or a setting gel, a cream blush and the right foundation. Of course, nothing beats having a smile on your face.
I don’t follow all the beauty rules. I do my make-up, make adjustments as needed and then step back. If it looks right to me, I go with it – that may mean strong eyes and bold lips together. If it doesn’t look quite right, that’s when I make changes. This applies whether I’m on a shoot or doing my own face. Obviously excluding allergies or ingredient concerns, I think beauty rules are meant to be broken.
The Mood-Lifting Rituals
You have to cleanse your skin properly, especially if you wear make-up. I hydrate and exfoliate too, alongside some form of sun protection and serum. I’ve always believed in a ritual, I used to write a chart on my wall, detailing my daily routine – cleansing, flossing and so on. Then there were weekly tasks, like masks, exfoliating and doing my nails. With better products and more knowledge at my disposal now, I can multi-task and use a few tricks here and there. However, the discipline I had back then remains, so maintaining the ritual is key. It’s not just about the products, it’s about continuing to do the steps even during the busiest times of our lives.
The Ever-Useful Advice
The one thing I’d tell my younger self? Keep doing what you’re doing, because it has worked for you. Trust your instinct – you know your stuff. On a more practical level, one of the things I’ve instilled into my daughter Reena (now the founder of inclusive teen beauty brand Indu) is the importance of having a consistent skincare routine. Little and often is far better than spending three hours on something that won’t benefit you in the long run. I always taught her, when she was old enough, to come home, wash her hands and do a bit of skincare. Experimenting with make-up while you’re young is the best because you can take it off without worrying about wrinkles or changes in your skin due to menopause or other factors. You’re also not in a work environment where someone might tell you to tone it down.
Follow @RUBYHAMMER & visit RUBYHAMMER.COM
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