The Best Places To Eat In Athens
CHIC
Delta
One of three restaurants in Athens to hold multiple Michelin stars, Delta stands out for its location – the fifth floor of Renzo Piano’s Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre – and its 12-course Omnivore tasting menu. Dishes showcase the output of the local farm and small producers that deliver direct to the kitchen. A wider zero-waste approach recently helped Delta earn a Green Michelin Star to go with two existing gongs.
Visit DELTARESTAURANT.GR
Soil
Vegetables rule at this lovely restaurant close to the Panathenaic Stadium. With a single tasting menu built around traditional Greek veggies and herbs, chef Tasos Mantis has earned a Michelin star and lately one of the guide’s newer Green stars for sustainability. If there was a star for location, Soil would earn that too: come summer, ask for a table beneath the citrus trees that shade the patio of its neoclassical home.
Visit SOILRESTAURANT.GR
CTC
The full name of this acclaimed restaurant in lively Kerameikos is CTC Urban Gastronomy, which doesn’t necessarily capture the leafy beauty of its terrace in summer. But that’s a tiny quibble next to the majesty of the 11-course tasting menu here. The menu doesn’t get revealed in advance, but you can expect artfully deconstructed riffs on classic Mediterranean cuisine.
Visit CTC-RESTAURANT.COM
Milos
Estiatorio Milos made its name bringing Greek seafood to the international luxe crowds in New York, London, Vegas, Dubai and beyond. Its Athens outpost sits within the group’s Xenodocheio Milos hotel close to Syntagma Square. As elsewhere, white tablecloths and a piled-high seafood bar in a bright modern space are the orders of the day.
Visit ESTIATORIOMILOS.COM
Herve
This reservations-only restaurant close to Petralona metro station claims to have Greece’s first chef’s table. The chef in question, Herve Pronzato, is French and you might notice ingredients from the old country sneaking into his seasonal tasting menus, though he also draws on his extensive travels to create his excellent modern cuisine.
Visit HERVE-RESTAURANT.COM
Cookoovaya
For a decade now, this restaurant on the edge of Kolonaki has held onto its place in the vanguard of the Athens scene. Its open kitchen brings energy to a classic main space as the team turn out ingredients-led modern Greek dishes – many are designed for sharing and the seafood game is especially strong here. The zero-waste policy is another impressive plus. The same group of chef-owners is behind Gastone, a more casual place in the centre of town that majors in grilled meats.
Visit COOKOOVAYA.GR
Gallina
This newcomer in Koukaki pairs cutting-edge fusion cuisine with statement wall art to lay on a stylishly contemporary experience. The ceilings are high, but floor space is at a premium – there are only 38 covers, so be sure to book ahead if you are set on trying inventive dishes like beef fillet marinated in raki with smoked topinambur and Xinomavro wine sauce.
Visit GALLINA.GR
Dolli’s
The view is the thing at the restaurant on top of the chic Dolli hotel. The roof of a grand old mansion in the central Plaka neighbourhood is just about the perfect viewing platform for the Acropolis. Dolli’s uses glass walls and clear sightlines to make the most of its greatest asset. The menu features well-executed versions of international luxe staples including salads, ceviche and abundant seafood – and if you're lucky enough to be a guest, there's a pool you can slip into for a well-deserved post-lunch dip.
Visit THEDOLLI.COM
Papadakis
Since it arrived in Athens from the island of Paros 20 years ago, Papadakis has become a local favourite of the well-heeled Kolonaki crowd. Having taken over the restaurant from her father, chef Argiro Barbarigou showcases seafood-forward island cuisine in dishes like grouper with orzo pasta, vegetables and lemon. The timeless dining room confirms its status as an old-school charmer.
Visit PAPADAKISRESTAURANT.COM
Papaioannou
Giorgios Papaioannou grew up helping his father in the family business. Since Giorgios took over, one well-loved restaurant in Piraeus has become four in and around Athens and Mykonos. Water laps at the terrace of his Riviera outpost in Vouliagmeni. The seafood here couldn’t be any fresher (make sure to order the catch of the day, which is filleted tableside) and the mid-century dining room is gorgeous but come summer the only place to be is out on the waterfront.
CONTEMPORARY
Linou Soumpasis
This outstanding restaurant in Psirri occupies what was once a candle shop and still sells its wares. The décor isn’t much changed either – metallic furniture seems to have been inspired by the old candle holders. Somehow that commitment to the building’s heritage is what marks it out as contemporary, even as the menu follows through on the dedication to tradition. Oysters, glossy horta greens, a generous pile of lamb chops, superb flatbreads – this is a place where the classics are done right.
Visit LINOUSOUMPASIS.GR
Pharaoh
This hip and welcoming spot in Exarcheia is a great place to get to know modern Greek cuisine and the local natural wine scene. In fact, there’s so much goodness to choose from here, it’s worth knowing they can do half-portions so you can try more. The friendly team produce all of this over live fire from an open kitchen that’s so well organised there’s even countertop space for a set of decks that comes into its own later in the week.
Visit PHARAOH.GR
Wine Is Fine
The wine is generally a bit better than fine at this small, walk-ins-only bistro in Psirri. The European wine list leans towards younger, fresher bottles and Greece is well represented. The French owners look homewards for menu inspiration, offering up beef tartare and bourguignon with fresh baguettes.
Visit WINEISFINE.GR
Akra
Akra in Pangrati revolves around the open fire on which so many of its dishes are cooked. It’s a casual spot, but the talent behind it is serious: head chef Yiannis Loukakis made his name in Thessaloniki before coming to the capital, while Spyros Pediaditakis is one of Greece’s star patissiers. The wine list features some good Greek bottles and, if you’ve just done your morning exercise at the nearby Panathenaic Stadium, it’s worth knowing Akra sells Spyros’s great bread and pastries from a counter on the street.
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Seychelles
It’s not quite on the other side of the world, but Seychelles is worth leaving the very centre of Athens for. Out in Metaxourgeio, it matches the homely feel of an old-time taverna with excellent new-style Greek cooking. There are familiar friends to fall back on, like a rusk-filled dakos salad, but you really shouldn’t come this far and not try the kitchen’s signature pappardelle, lard and cheese.
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Nolan
One of the judges on Greek MasterChef is the mastermind behind Nolan, but that’s not to say you’re putting yourself in the hands of a Gregg Wallace. Right next to Syntagma Square, Greek-Japanese chef Sotiris Kontizas has created a modern bistro that introduces Asian flavours to traditional local fare. Just be aware, Sotiris moves the restaurant to Mykonos each July through September to escape the city heat.
Visit NOLANVERSE.COM
Taverna ton Filon
Retro stylings, a relaxed atmosphere and an open kitchen are the essential features of a new-style taverna. Ton Filon has them all, and it’s worth making your way to Kolonos for a meal here. The menu changes every day, but it will always offer an array of appealing updates on Greek staples.
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Vezené
Vezené might be the original Greek bistro. Local seafood and aged meat each takes it turn on the open fire. Excellent produce, a nose-to-tail philosophy and the kitchen team’s mastery of time-honoured techniques combine to ensure the results are superb. A staple on the city’s dining scene since 2011, it’s got smooth service and an atmospheric dining room on its side, so we don’t see that changing anytime soon.
Visit VEZENE.GR
Aiolou68
It’s right next to the city’s biggest fish market, so it’s only right Aiolou68 specialises in seafood. This is an easy going place where groups can settle in with blowout dishes involving rib eye and lobster – all too easy to do when the weather’s good and you’ve got a table on the terrace – or you can keep things simple and ask for the catch of the day served with just a drizzle of lemon.
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CLASSIC
Like the French bistro and the Italian trattoria, the Greek taverna is a national institution. Nikitas in Psirri, O Leloudas in Botanikos, Geitonia in Kypseli, Ta Kanaria in Moschato, even To Drami out on the Riviera – every Athens neighbourhood has one somewhere. They endure because, between the warm hospitality, the generous sharing plates and the paper tablecloths, they are simply too good to let go. We hope these temples to simple pleasures will go on for centuries more to come. In the meantime, here’s a bit more about some of our favourites…
Skalakia
The true in-the-know pleasures of Athens don’t reveal themselves on social media. They emerge by chance, as you take a wrong turn down an unpromising side street that opens up to reveal a charming, vine-covered terrace restaurant. That’s how we discovered Skalakia, a taverna for the ages where warm pitas, wonderfully fresh produce and generous portions of souvlaki and gyros never fail to delight a crowd of faithful locals.
DIONISIOU EGINITOU 32, ATHENS 115 28
Oikonomou
As it approaches its centenary, Oikonomou shows no sign of speeding up. This a place where life has always slowed, and we hope it will be this way forever. Athenian favourites like rooster braised in red wine sauce are home cooked (literally, as this was once the house of the original owner) in huge pots. The best place to enjoy them is at one of the outdoor tables, watching life amble past.
Visit TAVERNAOIKONOMOU.GR
Oikeio
This cosy restaurant in chic Kolonaki is a warm and welcoming surprise. In time-honoured surrounds, the kitchen turns out affordable, unarguable classics – if you want to try real Greek moussaka, this is a great place to order it.
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Diporto
In a scruffy part of Psirri, Diporto might be the most authentic taverna of them all. There’s no sign outside, so you’ll need the address listed here. Once you’ve found its no-frills basement space, there’s no menu, so you’ll have to ask the owner what’s on. You might also have to share your table. But none of these are bad things – don’t overdo the retsina and you’ll remember the experience for a long time to come.
SOKRATOUS 9 & THEATROU 2, ATHENS 105 52
Athinaikon
Close to Omonia metro station, Athinaikon is an old bohemian stronghold. Artists of all stripes would gather at its tables for some much-needed sustenance. Today’s long menu would still seem familiar to them in places: fried meatballs with mint, Cretan dakos salad, an array of pastas, risottos and seafood dishes are all here.
Visit ATHINAIKON.GR
Axotis
Since it opened in the 1950s, Axotis has been run by three generations of the same family. The décor in this Polygono tavern feels like it has barely changed in that time, and today’s owners also remain faithful to the meat-first menu principles of their forefathers – don’t sleep on the standout lamb chops.
PAPARSENI 15, ATHENS 114 76
Avli
Perhaps even more than the food, the atmosphere is the thing at Avli. Hidden down a covered alleyway in Psirri, it’s an outdoor corridor as much a restaurant, but these ramshackle surrounds are in great demand, so you may have to wait for a table. It will be worth it, though – the kitchen’s simple Greek dishes are hard to beat after an evening in and around the area’s many world-class cocktail bars.
AG. DIMITRIOU 12, ATHENS 105 54
CASUAL
Feyrouz
At this family run Turkish joint in the historic centre, the menu is built around lahmatzun, a crispy flatbread that’s traditionally loaded with minced meat, veg and spices. There are veggie and vegan alternatives offered here, as well as filled pies, rice bowls and salads. There’s even cold craft beer. A smattering of outside tables make it a near-perfect street food stop-off, day or night.
Visit FEYROUZ.GR
Hoocut
The Cookoovaya founders have branched out to make souvlaki great again. The key to its successful reinvention is ingredients. The Hoocut team uses the best, preps them in house, cooks them on the grill in front of you, and serves. Simple and hugely effective. As well as a host of excellent meat-based ‘true pitta’, there are squid and dolmas options too. If modern, ingredients-led souvlaki is now your thing, there’s also Volvi to check out, near Varvakios food market.
Visit HOOCUT.COM
Hasapika Central Market
Hasapika Central Market is a sushi bar in the middle of the fish section Varvakios food market. Short of heading out to sea yourself, it’s hard to see how you could access fresher seafood. Such is the abundance of produce here, you could also sit up at the counter and order steamed mussels, grilled prawns or seafood pasta.
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Lefteris O Politis
The good name of souvlaki may have been tarnished by unscrupulous operators over the decades, but there are some authentic pioneers of the craft who still stand tall today. Lefteris O Politis has been turning out souvlaki to the same simple recipe since the early 1950s. It’s just beef and a pinch of salt, grilled then served with tomato, onion and parsley. As it should be.
SATOVRIANDOU 20, ATHENS 104 32
O Kostas
This daytime souvlaki joint in the historic centre is a local favourite. What makes it special? Some say it’s pita, others cite the quality of the meat. We love that it’s run today by the grandson of the man who started it all way back in the 1940s.
PL. AGIAS IRINIS 2, ATHENS 105 60
DAYTIME
Wild Souls
Nuts are the hero ingredient at this photogenic café-deli close to Syntagma Square, though it also does a fine line in halva, a lovely sesame-based Greek sweet that isn’t as bad for you as you might think. For the truly abstemious, there are also salads and energy bowls to grab and go.
Visit WILDSOULS.GR
The Makers
The Makers is a concept store whose real bread and butter is handmade aprons. But it is also the sleek all-day brunch spot to know in the centre of town. Eggs, avo and açai all feature on the menu, alongside some sweeter options like a chocolate porridge.
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Holy Llama
This vegan bakery near Syntagma Square is out to convince you that animal product-free pastries can be as good as any. Its croissants and its cruffins certainly make a good case, as do the pies with seasonal fillings that come to fore at lunchtime each day.
Visit HOLYLLAMA.GR
Philos Athens
The owners of Philos have turned a handsome but neglected neoclassical building in Kolonaki into something thoroughly contemporary. Artfully chosen items fill the bare rooms of its concept store and there’s space on the ground floor for a café with a brunch menu full of modern classics.
Follow @PHILOS_ATHENS
Kora Bakery
If you are on your way to climb Lycabettus Hill, this is the place to pick up a pastry. We wouldn’t put you off its sandwiches either – the sourdough it makes in house might be the best in the city.
Visit KORABAKERY.COM
Black Salami
This Exarcheia bakery spent years finding the perfect ingredients for its dough. For customers, it was worth the wait. The focaccia are exceptional, but then so are all of the filled sandwiches.
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Ariston Bakery
This family run bakery in the centre of town has been producing wonderful kourou pies for more than 120 years. They look like pasties or empanadas, the pastry is made with yoghurt for extra tang, and they tend to get filled with feta. Oh, and they make a great warm breakfast.
VOULIS 10, ATHENS 105 62
Antonis Selekos Conceptual Desserts
Panettone from Pangrati. We’re not sure if it was the alliteration that appealed to Antonis Selekos or whether there’s a slightly higher concept behind this shop. Either way, the pastry chef now makes Italian Christmas cakes year round – and they’re uniformly excellent.
Visit ANTONISSELEKOS.COM
AND FOR ICE-CREAM
You might have heard, summer in the city can be hot. When the need strikes, we like Django in Koukaki for made-daily, all-natural gelatos and sorbets. Kokkion in Psirri does a wonderful, traditional kaimaki ice cream made with buffalo milk, as well as more unusual flavours like mascarpone cheese with bergamot and molasses. Maraboo specialises in seasonal fruit sorbets, while Oggi is the place to try a gelato brioche. Finally, Le Greche puts a local spin on classic Italian gelato with flavours like Greek yoghurt.
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