The SheerLuxe Guide To Couture Fashion Week: 5 Collections Everyone Is Talking About
Schiaparelli
If one house won Couture Week, it was Schiaparelli. Daniel Roseberry opened the week with The Abyss, a collection he described as a rejection of ‘formulas’ and an exploration of the unknown, once again celebrating the female form through impossibly sculpted silhouettes, plunging bodices and gowns that felt as much like works of art as couture. As always, the craftsmanship was extraordinary, but it was the cultural moment that cemented the collection's status. Within hours of the show, Law Roach had secured one of the standout looks for Zendaya to wear to The Odyssey premiere in London that same evening – a styling feat so anticipated that fashion fans had correctly predicted it before she even arrived. Add Karlie Kloss's runway return with front-row appearances from Bad Bunny and Emma Corrin and Schiaparelli once again proved it's the house setting the pace for modern couture.
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Dior
Jonathan Anderson continues to refine his vision at Dior, and this collection felt like one of his strongest yet. Built around sculptural silhouettes, exceptional draping and an unwavering emphasis on craftsmanship, it demonstrated his ability to honour Dior's heritage without becoming constrained by it. While many designers continue to mine the archives, Anderson's interpretation feels fresher with every season, balancing artistry with wearability in a way that feels distinctly his own. Off the runway, Sabrina Carpenter once again reaffirmed her status as one of the house's most compelling ambassadors. At the same time, her appearance alongside Josh O'Connor sparked plenty of conversation.
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Chanel
Of all the collections this season, Chanel was perhaps the one fashion editors couldn't stop talking about. Matthieu Blazy isn't rewriting the house's DNA – he's gently evolving it season on season, keeping Chanel's signature tweed, florals and exquisite craftsmanship firmly intact while introducing richer colours, softer proportions and a welcome sense of volume. The result struck a beautiful balance between fantasy and wearability, making couture feel aspirational without tipping into costume. It's a subtle approach, but an effective one, breathing fresh energy into one of fashion's most iconic maisons while making it feel relevant for a new generation.
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Balenciaga
Balenciaga delivered one of the week's biggest surprises, with a collection that felt romantic, elegant and quietly confident. Sweeping velvet gowns, dramatic coats and sculptural collars nodded to the house's architectural heritage, while fluid draping and softened silhouettes introduced a sense of ease that felt refreshingly modern. Rather than distancing itself from Balenciaga's couture legacy, the collection embraced it through a more refined lens, resulting in one of the most beautiful and cohesive outings we've seen from the house in recent years.
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Standing Ground
One of the week's biggest insider favourites came from Standing Ground, which made its debut on the official Haute Couture calendar. Fresh from winning the LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize, Michael Stewart presented a collection that relied on technical precision rather than spectacle, with sculptural draping, impeccably cut column gowns and a quiet confidence that set it apart from many of the week's louder shows. It was one of the most refined collections of the season and cemented Standing Ground as a label to watch – don't be surprised if it becomes the go-to couture house for fashion's next generation of red-carpet dressers.
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