An Insider’s Guide To Sourcing Vintage Jewellery
Ætla is designed to make the process of buying jewellery more thoughtful. After working in fashion and costume jewellery – including seven years at Vivienne Westwood – I wanted to shift towards something with more permanence. I was always drawn to pieces with real longevity – objects made by hand, with soul and purpose. That’s what led me to opening my own fine jewellery store, ætla, in 2020.
Antique and vintage jewellery was always meant to be part of the story. When we launched, we initially focused on contemporary makers – particularly those working in sustainable, small-scale ways. But in 2023, we introduced the ætla antique and vintage collection. It felt like such a natural extension of our ethos and it’s now a core part of what we do.
We usually release two main drops each year. But I’m constantly sourcing one-off pieces – sometimes that’s a small, curated edit around a particular material or era; other times, it’s just one standout find. The process is intuitive and instinct-led, rather than structured around a rigid buying schedule.
I’m drawn to pieces with intrinsic value and longevity – things that are well-made and can be worn for decades. That said, fashion jewellery absolutely has its place. It can be bold, expressive and more accessible, and vintage fashion jewellery can be really inventive in terms of design. The downside is often durability. Fine jewellery, however, tends to last longer, can increase in value and often becomes more personal the more it’s worn.
Choose something you’ll actually wear – not just something that looks beautiful in a box. It doesn’t need to be a collector’s piece. Think about whether you’ll realistically reach for it for years to come. At ætla, we also do quite a bit of remodelling, especially when someone finds a piece with beautiful stones but a setting that doesn’t quite feel right. You can always adapt something if it has potential. When it comes to styling, don’t overthink it. You don’t need to match metals or stick to one era. Mixing things can make the whole look feel more personal. Some of the best vintage pieces are the ones that just slot into what you already wear without needing too much thought.
I love mixing vintage and antique pieces with contemporary jewellery. The lines between them start to blur, and they lift each other in such a natural way. It doesn’t feel like separate categories; it just becomes part of how I dress. I often stack antique or vintage rings with more modern ones, which keeps things feeling effortless rather than over-styled. I tend to wear antique diamond rings or necklaces with more everyday clothes; I like that contrast. And I always reach for vintage costume jewellery earrings when I want to add something a bit stronger. It’s not about dressing up, it’s about wearing things in a way that feels easy and natural.
When it comes to styling vintage jewellery, don’t overthink it. I think good jewellery adds focus – it can pull a look together or shift the whole mood of an outfit. I often wear more tailored or minimalist clothing before adding one strong piece to make everything feel more intentional. Jewellery can deliver either structure or softness, depending on what you choose. And when a piece has age or is particularly well made, it carries its own presence; it adds depth, even when everything else is quite pared back.
One of the things I love most about vintage jewellery is that it’s not perfect – at least not in the polished, modern sense. You’ll often find pieces that are truly one of a kind, or at least incredibly rare. They reflect the time they were made, both in style and technique, and it’s those details that make them so interesting. Wearing them feels like a quiet way of honouring the past while making it part of your everyday life. Plus, it’s a chance to express your style in a way that feels unique.
I source vintage and antique pieces through a mix of trusted dealers, private clients, auctions and fairs. Most are in the UK and Europe, some come through long-standing relationships, while others are unexpected finds. The process can be quite addictive, whether I’m searching for something specific or stumble upon something I didn’t know I was looking for. There’s usually a fair bit of research involved, and I have specialists I can call on if I need to confirm the finer details.
The UK is one of the best places in the world for sourcing vintage jewellery. You can find everything from Georgian pieces to ones from the 1980s, often in great condition, and there’s still a real chance of discovering gems in unexpected places. Scotland, in particular, has a lot to offer. There’s a strong tradition of jewellery here, and things still turn up privately or through regional auctions. We have a small capsule of vintage pieces that we will show in August during our Fringe exhibition: Icons of Scottish Jewellery.
Changing the perception of antique jewellery is something I care about deeply. Thankfully, with the rise of second-hand, re-wearing, and buying with longevity in mind – vintage and antique jewellery feels more relevant than ever. I try to show clients the contemporary pieces they can buy or have remodelled – it’s a way to wear something completely unique. You're not buying into a trend; you're choosing something with its own story or reshaping that story to fit with a more contemporary feel.
Style today feels more fluid and relaxed than it ever has. Mixing old and new is second nature now, and that makes vintage jewellery feel more wearable. That shift away from formality has made vintage and antique jewellery feel much more approachable.
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One of my favourite pieces is an antique Victorian Scottish agate bracelet in 9k gold. The condition was excellent – all original panels, no repairs – and it really showed off the colour and variety of Scottish agates beautifully. Even though it was made in the 19th century, it felt incredibly current. You could imagine it sitting comfortably in a modern runway collection. We sold it recently, but you can still see it on our site here.
The one piece I wear every day is a signet ring from the ætla Revival collection – a capsule of pieces I’ve designed as remodels. The diamond signet is probably the one I reach for most often. It started as an antique signet, which we upcycled with a scatter of antique diamonds. It has this lovely balance of character and subtle sparkle that makes it feel both timeless and unique. I love how it feels like it’s lived a few lives already, and wearing it just adds to its story. It actually ended up inspiring another piece in the Revival collection: a signet ring set with antique baguette sapphires.
Some of my most memorable moments have been creating bespoke orders. One that stands out was when we were asked to source an antique diamond for a bespoke engagement ring, specifically a three-carat elongated cushion-cut diamond. It had to feel romantic but also quite clean, and with enough age to carry the right presence. After a long search, we found one with beautiful proportions and a soft, slightly hazy glow that only antique stones seem to have. It was set into a contemporary design, but the diamond gave it so much depth. It ended up being one of the most special rings we’ve worked on.
Jewellery can carry memories in such a unique way. I once sourced a rare antique ring at auction and brought it back to the shop. While I was unpacking it, a customer who happened to be in the store spotted it. She had a really strong emotional reaction; it reminded her of something her grandmother used to wear, and it clearly struck a nerve in a very personal way. She bought it almost immediately. That moment has really stayed with me.
If I could give anyone a piece of advice, it would be to wear and look after your jewellery. People can be overly cautious with vintage or antique jewellery, but gentle, regular wear is often better than keeping it hidden away. There are a few basic rules I recommend abiding by, like avoid chemicals, don’t wear them in the shower or to bed, and store pieces separately to prevent scratches. For antique settings, especially foil-backed or closed-back stones, it’s important to avoid moisture and never try to clean them with anything too abrasive.
Get your prongs and settings checked from time to time. Particularly on older pieces. Claws can wear down gradually, and stones may loosen without you noticing. A quick check by a jeweller can help avoid losing anything important. And if it’s a vintage piece that’s gold-plated or rhodium-plated, you can usually have it replated to freshen it up. It’s a simple way to bring it back to life without altering the piece itself.
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