Trend Report: Big Shoulders

Trend Report: Big Shoulders

Trends come and go, but few have had such a successful renaissance in the past year as the shoulder pad. Here’s why the look is back, and how to wear it now.
Photography: BALMAIN

BALMAIN

Once the reserve of 80s power players, shoulder pads have spent the last few decades in fashion purgatory. But a resurgence in 80s and 90s trends has pushed them back to the forefront, along with cycling shorts, oversized trenches, chunky gold jewellery…you name it, if Princess Diana wore it, it’s back in play.

The Origins

The 80s was the era of power women – think Margaret Thatcher, Grace Jones and Madonna. Creating the illusion of the typical male form, shoulder pads quickly became a pop culture trend, with glamorous women like Joan Collins and her fellow Dynasty cohorts adopting the look – that, along with the aforementioned Princess Di, was more than enough to cement its status as a defining trend of the era.  

The Return

The style first began to re-emerge for Autumn/Winter 2018, appearing on the runways of only the most progressive designers – Alessandro Michele for Gucci and Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga were early champions. And while those early stage shoulders took on an80s form (think oversized blazers, coats and suiting), the look has evolved over the past few seasons to add some structure to just about anything and everything. The ubiquitous Frankie Shop (or otherwise) muscle tees are the ultimate example, but everything from sweatshirts to midi dresses, a la Jeanette Madsen, are now getting the padded treatment. Some may say it’s a feminist statement, but our analysis is a little more superficial: wide shoulders equals a smaller looking waist. 

Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant
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@MARCOVANRIJT @_JEANETTEMADSEN_

Isabel Marant, Elisabetta Franchi
Isabel Marant, Elisabetta Franchi

The Inspiration

Earlier iterations of the trend may have felt more like a revival of the 80s than a fresh twist on the look (notwithstanding questionable American football-like padding in sweatshirts at Gvasalia’s Vetements), but this season’s approach is more sophisticated, pared-back and wearable. Balmain and Isabel Marant are the brands to turn to for subtle nods to the look, pairing statement jackets with a clean palette and great denim for an easy-to-replicate aesthetic. Plus, where shoulders were once harsh, with sharp corners and ‘mean business’ attitudes, they’re now a little softer round the edges, with a small puff or pleat helping to feminise the statement trend.

The Styling

The only way this look can go wrong is if you get your proportions out of whack. A cinched waist will help to create that flattering form, so look for pieces that can be tucked into high waisted trousers or a midi skirt – only the brave like LouLou De Saison will feel comfortable in coats and blazers with supersized shoulders. If that’s you, take styling cues from sporty types by layering over hoodies and leggings for an aesthetic close to Wardrobe NYC.  
 

@LOULOUDESAISON

Shop Our Edit Of Big Shoulders Below...

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