
What You Need To Know About Painting The Exterior Of Your House
PAINT SELECTION
What type of paint is best suited for exterior surfaces?
“There are all kinds of paints that can be used for decorating interiors and exteriors. The most important thing for the exterior is ensuring the paint is actually for exterior use. Exterior paints are formulated to repel moisture and protect surfaces – interior paints less so. People decorate the outside of buildings to make them look good but also to protect them. If you use the wrong products, you won’t protect the surfaces and they won’t look good for long.” – Phil Robinson, founder of Paint The Town Green
Are there specific paints you'd recommend for damp-prone areas or older properties?
“There’s a limit on how much paint can do if there’s a fundamental issue with the building. If there’s rising damp or the pointing (the sand and cement between the bricks) is crumbling, then the issue needs addressing before decorating. Sometimes, using a breathable product can help with damp issues and when working on older properties with lime plaster. These still repel rainwater but will allow the building to ‘breathe’ so gases including water vapour can escape rather than becoming trapped under the waterproof surface. Keim paint is a great product that we often use.” – Phil
“Our Exterior Masonry finish is our most durable. It has a long-lasting and water-resistant formula which is great for British weather. Plus, it has the highest level of water vapour permeability, so it still lets your walls breathe. For older properties, we offer a range of traditional finishes such as Limewash, Casein Distemper and Soft Distemper.” – Patrick O’Donnell, Farrow & Ball brand ambassador
PREPARATION
How should you prepare the walls and surfaces before painting?
“Preparation is the difference between a great decorating job and a quick fix. First, give everything a sand – this will remove any lumps and bumps from previous painting mishaps (bits in the paint, brush marks etc.) but also give you the opportunity to survey the surfaces and notice any cracks or small holes that need filling. Any cracks should be gently raked out to remove crumbly bits of paint or plaster from around the edges. There are tools you can buy for this, but the edge of a flat-headed screwdriver will do the job just as well. Go gently if the walls are old – you only want to remove the crumbling fragment on the edge of the crack, not de-stabilise the wall entirely. When this is done, mix up some wall filler (Tetrion and Toupret are two brands we use) and use a filling knife to apply it to the crack. Don’t go crazy as you’ll need to sand it flat once it’s dry. If it’s a deep crack, you may want to fill it just shy of the surface. When that’s dry do a light second fill over the top that you leave just proud of the surface so it’s ready for sanding back when it’s dry. For wood (on window frames, doors etc.) it’s the same process but just make sure you use a wood filler.” – Phil
“Using one of our primers is a good way to even out porosity and create a blank canvas for colour. If your exterior surfaces have been newly rendered, refrain from painting them for up to three months as this allows for adequate drying time.” – Patrick
How should you protect floors, furniture or landscaping during the painting process?
“Time spent protecting surfaces is imperative for efficient working and a swift exit at the end of the job. You can spend an hour protecting an area at the start or a day cleaning at the end – the choice is yours. Dust (or drop) sheets are the conventional choice and they work well for furniture or protecting plants outside. On hard floors (wood or tile) we use sheets of re-cycled cardboard, which we tape in place for the duration of the project. This provides a temporary floor surface on top of the actual floor that can be walked on, plus doors can be opened and closed without anything moving and the surfaces becoming exposed.” – Phil
How should you deal with mould, peeling paint or stains before applying new paint?
“There are many mould and fungicidal washes on the market. Make sure to always follow the manufacturer’s guidance when using these to treat mould. After use, thoroughly clean the area with water and allow it to dry fully, as strong cleaning products can have an impact on adhesion. For most surfaces, we would recommend using a dilute Sugar Soap solution, following the manufacturer's instructions. We do not recommend using solvent-based cleaning products or strong alkaline solutions as these can also impact adhesion. Remove any areas of old paint which are peeling or blistering by gently sanding, as flaking or peeling can occur if you paint over weak paint layers. If possible, try to ‘feather’ out the edges of old paint to create a smooth surface and fill any gaps with an appropriate filler.” – Patrick
“There are various stain-blocking products that can be used to get rid of damp staining prior to painting. A popular brand for this is Zinnser, however, be aware that most effective stain-blocks have a high VOC content, so only use where you need to and ensure the areas is well ventilated. An important point to note is that stain-blocking products can deal with dormant discolouring, but they can’t hold back an active water ingress issue. If you have damp staining in your property it’s important you find out why it’s there, address the cause of the leak and then give it time to dry out before re-decorating. Otherwise, it’s very likely to come back again.” – Phil
PAINTING PROCESS
Which tools or techniques are most effective for achieving a smooth and even finish?
“Fillers come in a range of porosities and densities, so choose one as close to the wall being repaired as possible to avoid differences in colour and tone. It is also a good idea to ‘spot prime’, targeting the area, before fully priming the wall.” – Patrick
“There are three main methods for applying paint: brush, roller and spray. Spraying is generally used for larger areas and tends to be the domain of the commercial building decorator, whereas brush and roller are more widely used in residential properties. Brushes come in all shapes and sizes and are used for more intricate work, where you need to be precise around the edges or get into tight spots. When painting walls, the work done with the brush around the edges is called ‘cutting in’. You then use the roller to cover the big flat areas.” – Phil
How many coats of paint are typically required?
“At least two. The risk you run with one coat is you almost always have tiny misses when you paint. As long as you don’t do it in exactly the same place the second time, these misses should disappear with the second coat. Some colours cover better than others. This is due to some pigments having better opacity (the ability to cover up what was there before), as well as the way different brands manufacture their paint. Colours notorious for having poor opacity and therefore often requiring additional coats are reds, yellows and deep greens.” – Phil
Do you recommend using primers or undercoats, and if so, which types?
“It depends. Painting is a process. Primers are used to prepare a surface that the next coat will stick to. When painting bare wood, you should always use a wood primer. When painting onto bare plaster, a mist coat (watered down emulsion) should always be applied first. If you don’t apply a primer to bare surfaces, it’s likely your paint will start to flake and peel. Undercoats then provide body and substance to the first covering. These tend to have high opacity (as mentioned previously) but don’t have any sheen level or protective quality. If you leave a surface with just undercoat on, it will start to mark and gather dust quite quickly. Undercoats are not always necessary when painting walls, you can just do two to three coats of emulsion, but it’s advisable when painting woodwork. Finally, the top coat is the bit that protects the surface and looks great.” – Phil
TIMELINE & COST
How long does it typically take to paint a standard-sized British house?
“There are many variables – the two biggest factors being how big the team of decorators is and whether the clients are living there or not. The answer to this question has a big impact on the length of the project. At Paint the Town Green, we have a big team of decorators who can turn around an empty five-bedroom house, inside and outside, in a couple of weeks (weather permitting and with sufficient lead time). However, as soon as it becomes occupied and full of furniture, this slows things down. Realistically clients need to have areas they can sleep in, areas where they can relax and at least one fully accessible bathroom. With that and a smaller team, you’re looking at a four-to-six-week timeframe.” – Phil
Which factors might affect the overall cost of the project?
“There are several factors that affect the cost of re-decorating. Size and shape of the property; whether it’s just the walls that need painting; or the walls and ceilings or the walls, ceilings and woodwork. Other variables include the condition of the surfaces, how much preparation is required and how much furniture needs moving/protecting before work can begin. Even the number of different colours and brands of paint can have a big impact on the cost. The more colours there are, the more waste is generated and the more paint bought but not used. We can provide estimates for projects either by visiting the site and discussing the project with clients or from floor plans, videos and photos.” – Phil
MAINTENANCE
What’s the best way to maintain exterior paintwork?
“Re-decorate regularly and when you get it done, rectify any issues before they deteriorate too far. Ultimately, no amount of decorating can last forever, but done well and regularly, it can maximise the lifespan of the fabric of your building.” – Phil
Are there regular touch-ups or cleaning methods you recommend for painted surfaces?
“If you use a wipeable product (these can be called Architect’s Matt, Modern Emulsion, Intelligent Matt etc) you can wipe off some scuff marks with a damp cloth. Touch-ups are a bit of a minefield. Success is dependent on so many things – not just accurately matching the paint, but also the lighting in that area, whether there’s been any fading of the existing paint and how the touch up is applied. My advice would be to only attempt a touch-up if you’re prepared to re-paint the whole area if it doesn’t blend in. Remember, a scuff is just a scuff – it’s a sign the property is lived in. A bad touch-up can draw the eye far more and suggests the property has been poorly decorated.” – Phil
Finally, how often should exterior paintwork be repainted?
“Every five years is the standard recommendation. Look for any loose or flaking paint, bubbles or anything that suggests the paint is starting to fail and that water is getting behind it and damaging the surfaces underneath.” – Phil
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