The Ultimate Brow Tips & Tricks From An Expert
Create Lift With Concealer
A touch of concealer under the arch of the brow adds light, giving you an immediate lift. It works by mimicking the appearance of a contoured brow bone.
Pay Attention To The Arch
One of the most common mistakes is taking the arch too high and shortening the length of the brow. The length, width and placement of the arch is key to balancing the face. Misshapen brows make you look permanently surprised and are noticeable.
Always Work With What You Have
Another mistake people make is working against what they were born with. You have to play with your own natural shape and texture. Avoid taking too much hair and don’t ask your brow therapist to do this, either. Looking at what someone else has and trying to mirror it won’t always work, so ask an expert to map out the style and shape that best suits your face. If you’re doing it yourself, it should be a lesson in restraint.
Know That You Can Revive Brows
I am always asked whether over-plucked brows mean game over. Honestly, there are so many great growth-serums out there that stimulate hair. My favourites are the Chāmpo Pitta Brow and Olaplex’s Brow Bond. Both are brilliant but like anything, you need to use them regularly and consistently to see results. I would always say give it at least a good four to six weeks and anywhere up to six months to see what maximum regrowth potential is. Ingredients to look for include peptides, keratin and amino acids – be mindful of prostaglandins as they are linked to skin darkening.
Don’t Pay Attention To Trends
I’ve already said it but focus on what suits your individual features and face shape. That said, there’s definitely a shift away from as big and fluffy as possible, which is worth noting. What is becoming popular is a naturally sculpted finish that isn’t too neat or tidy – it’s much more flattering.
Leave Your Brows Alone
Don’t fiddle with your brows in between appointments. Leave them alone so your brow hair stays in a similar cycle and your artist has enough to work with each time. Plucking the odd one close to the eyelid is fine, but if you’re doubtful, leave it.
Understand The Techniques
Trimming, tweezing, waxing, threading…There are so many different ways to shape your brows but I think threading is the best technique. It’s much kinder on the skin and given that so many clients use actives in their skincare now, I find it the safest. Threading helps you to guide removal of individual hairs, so it’s also one of the easiest ways to achieve the perfect shape. It takes it from the root too, so regrowth is slower.
Reach For A Gel If You’re Rushing
Brow gel is perfect for giving natural arches a little extra something. Many of us won’t go out without our brows done and a slick of gel can help you feel more put-together. There is nothing worse than drooping brows and a temporary lift makes all the difference. Tinted versions are so useful if you want your brows to look fuller or, in my case, to mask the odd grey hair. I love Glossier Boy Brow and Chanel’s Le Gel Sourcils.
Use A Good Pencil
My favourite product for brows is a very thin nibbed pencil. Nothing beats it for mimicking hairstrokes – a dry formula is best, especially if you’re slightly heavier handed as it will always look soft and natural. I recommend the Kosas Nano Brow and Hourglass Arch Brow Micro Pencils. Both are available in a number of shades.
Match Your Brows To…Your Brows
Another misconception is that you should match the colour of your brows to your hair. But it doesn’t make sense as a rule. Instead, take time to match the pencils, pomades and gels you use to your brow hair – it’s what makes the biggest difference.
Follow Your Natural Shape
If you’re unsure where and how to apply your brow products, follow the shape that naturally sits along your brow bone – this is the best guide. If your eyes are small and hooded, you don’t want a thick brow as this will look heavy and ageing. Instead, lift your arches to open the eyes. A general rule with eye make-up – including brows – is you want to work up and out. The more you do this, the more awake and fresher your face will look. You also want to avoid having brows too thin at the front and too thick at the ends, as this will drag your eyes down.
Hydrate Post-Lamination
A lot of people book brow lamination but forget the maintenance that’s required post-treatment. Think of it like bleaching your hair – it’s a chemical process and requires a lot of aftercare to rehydrate and keep brows smooth and conditioned. Look to castor oil and growth serums.
Finally, Take Note Of Cosmetic Tattooing
Microblading is the treatment everyone’s heard of but it’s actually only suitable for a select number of skin types. Instead, cosmetic tattooing is better suited to more people. While the two techniques are similar, cosmetic tattooing is done with an ultra-fine, single needle, while microblading is done with a manual, handheld blade, so in my opinion, cosmetic tattoos cause less trauma to the skin and create more realistic, hair-like strokes that soften in nicely.
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