A Guide To Keratin Hair Treatments

Keratin treatments are generally deemed safe now but it’s still important to do your homework and ask your stylist for a thorough consultation beforehand. “You should also consider your hair type and how long you want the treatment to last, as different keratin treatments have different strengths and results,” says session stylist Craig Taylor. “It’s important to be realistic too – often you need a stylist’s view to understand what is achievable and ensure you get the best results.”

The aim with this treatment is to replenish the hair’s keratin content. Keratin itself is a vital structural protein naturally present in the hair which helps to add shine, strength and minimise frizz. “Afterwards, you can expect your hair to look glossier, feel smoother and generally be more manageable to style,” says Rob Fitch, creative master stylist at Josh Wood Atelier. “It can also speed up blow-drying time by 20%.”

“The process involves washing the hair with a clarifying shampoo which removes all product build-up and opens the hair cuticle to allow the keratin to penetrate into the strands. Your hair will then be rough-dried until it’s about 80% dry, then the specialist will apply the treatment, working in sections. The formula is left on for 20 to 30 minutes depending on your hair type and then the hair will be blow-dried and straightened to seal in the keratin. One thing to note is that you should not dye your hair for up to ten days prior to the treatment because it can actually affect the colour.” – Rob

“Your stylist will advise you on the specifics of what to avoid post-treatment but generally, try to steer clear of shampoos that contain sulphates and sodium chloride. These can deplete the hair and the scalp’s natural oils, in turn, destroying the keratin coating treatment. It’s also essential to wash your hair less frequently and avoid getting it wet within the first 48 hours. This is because you need to ensure the keratin has taken properly – and the same goes for heat styling.” – Craig

“After your treatment, it’s best to avoid using grips or other accessories that could leave demarcation lines. If you need to tie up your hair, we recommend doing it loosely with a pure silk, soft scrunchie loosely.” – Rob

When choosing the right keratin treatment for you, it’s important to factor in your hair type, desired result and how long you want it to last. “There are three main options: Express Keratin, Intense Keratin and Nano Smooth,” explains Craig. “The first is the lightest option available and it’s best used on hair that just requires frizz control and better shine. This treatment won’t do much to relax curl and lasts roughly five to six weeks, before the hair slowly returns to its natural state. As for ‘Intense’ this is slightly stronger, and better at reducing natural curls and relaxing the hair, plus, it lasts for two to three months. Finally, ‘Nano Smooth’ is the strongest and longest process. It requires at least two hours and includes hair being shampooed twice, leaving the treatment to get to work and then the hair being blow-dried and straightened. It’s worth the wait as it lasts three to four months and provides the best results on stubborn, frizzy hair.” 

Finally, it’s worth bearing in mind that there are other smoothing treatments out there – many of which are formaldehyde-free – that can also offer excellent results. Aura by Lakmé is one popular alternative, while Wella’s Smoothfiller recently won over the SL beauty team. The latter smooths hair without dramatically altering its natural texture, meaning waves and curls retain their shape while frizz is reduced. Compared to traditional keratin treatments, the aftercare is also far less restrictive.