Make-Up Artist Morgane Martini Answers Some Common Make-Up Questions

Make-Up Artist Morgane Martini Answers Some Common Make-Up Questions

In this series, we ask top industry insiders to answer the questions they’re asked most often. From how to get dewy skin, to the easiest way to do a smokey eye and the best brushes to invest in, here A-list make-up artist and master of French girl beauty Morgane Martini shares her advice.

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Question #1: If You Want A Dewy Finish From Your Foundation, How Should You Apply It?

Morgane’s Answer: “To get a dewy finish the most important step is actually skin prep, a step people often forget or ignore entirely. I like to use Dr Barbara Sturm’s Enzyme Cleanser twice a week – nothing gets read of dead skin cells better – to leave skin feeling smooth, refined and ready for make-up. After this, I’ll choose a nice, nourishing moisturiser. I love Weleda’s Skin Food for those on the dry side – it has the best texture and gives skin an amazing glow, you just have to make sure you really work it in. In terms of which foundation you apply and how, it depends on the kind of base make-up you’re applying. If it’s a thin, transparent texture, apply it with your hands, but if it’s creamier, use a brush or a sponge and keep buffing until it’s fully absorbed. Begin by focusing on the centre of your face where you often need more coverage, then begin to blend it outwards. If you want to add more glow, apply a highlighter to the highest points of your face – cheekbones, bridge of your nose, forehead and cupid’s bow.”

Question #2: What’s The Best Way To Choose A Red Lipstick?

Morgane’s Answer: “First, you need to assess what your skin’s undertone is. Cooler skin tones – those who often suit silver jewellery best – do well with reds that have more blue undertones, whereas warmer complexions – those who often suit gold jewellery better – do well with warmer, richer colours. In all honesty though, don’t stick to the rules too rigidly. My advice is to feel it out and have a play. Sometimes, there’s nothing chicer than a warm red on very cold skin. The best thing to do is swatch, play and try to see which ones feel right for you. In terms of suits-all products, The Westman Atelier Lip Suede in Les Rouges come highly recommended. There are four shades of red, so you can’t go too far wrong – it’s a fun way of playing with colour. You also can’t go wrong with MAC’s Ruby Woo or Lady Danger as they’re both universally flattering.”

Question #3: If You Only Have Five Minutes To Do Your Make-Up, What Should You Prioritise?

Morgane’s Answer: “Invest in a sheer foundation, cream blush (which doubles up for lips) and a great mascara. To me, these three things are essential to keep you looking fresh, awake and healthy. My go-tos are Tom Ford’s Traceless Foundation, Glossier’s Cloud Paints and their Lash Slick Mascara, too. The foundation is so creamy and easy to blend when time is of the essence. As for the blushers, I often use these on my lips for a bitten effect and the brand’s mascara, in my opinion, is the best for quickly defining lashes in a natural way – you could apply it without a mirror it’s so easy.”

Question #4: Multi-Tasking Products Are Everywhere – What Should You Invest In?

Morgane’s Answer: “Chanel’s Baume Essentiel stick really is one of the best products on the market. I use it everywhere – eyes, cheekbones and even lips, as it blends so well with other products. MAC’s blushers in ‘Taupe,’ ‘Blunt,’ and ‘Film Noir,’ are brilliant too, as they contour and double up as an eyeshadow, too. Use ‘Taupe’ for lighter skin and the other two shades for deeper tones. Finally, NARS’ Multiple Stick will always be in my kit. I rotate the shades ‘Orgasm’ and ‘Na Pali Coast,’ as they’re so flattering and again, can be used all over the face.”

Question #5: Is There An Easy Way To Make Your Lashes Look Longer?

Morgane’s Answer: “Yes, absolutely. Nine times out of ten I will curl the lashes before doing any make-up – it’s the best way to add volume and really lift the lashes from the base. My go-to curlers are Shu Uemura’s as they have such great grip. After this, I’ll choose a mascara according to the result I want, which again, is something people often neglect. If you want a mascara that lengthens, look for one that specifies this. I’d also advise investing in lighter formulas – you don’t want anything too thick as it will just weigh lashes down and erase any curl you’ve created. Always start right at the root and glide it through right to the tips, taking your time as you go for even results.”

Question #6: How Do You Know Which Make-Up Brushes Do What? And Which Are Most Important?

Morgane’s Answer: This is a tricky one as all brushes are important, and I have many myself. It does depend how extensive your routine is, but typically, I’d recommend having a powder brush which is big, fluffy and soft, as well as a blush brush that has an angled edge to help you hug the cheeks. Beyond that, it’s worth having two or three brushes for your eyes. Firstly, a rounded fluffy one that blends your eyeshadow, then a flat brush to apply pigment or glitter, and a small, rounded one with a thin top that allows you to take a more detailed approach. If foundation is a big thing for you, invest in a good brush with soft, but dense bristles, for this, or a sponge, although the former is preferable for creating a smooth canvas.”

Question #7: If You Want To Apply Lipstick, But Suffer With Dry, Chapped Flakes, What Can You Do? 

Morgane’s Answer: “If you’re planning on wearing a bold colour for a night out, always prep your lips beforehand. I’ll often use a lip scrub to get rid of dead skin and make the lips smoother. Both MAC’s Lip Scrub and Kiko’s Scrubbing Wipes are brilliant. After this, I’ll slather on a lip balm, like Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream. Just make sure you apply the balm an hour or so before any colour, so it has time to absorb and hydrate. Finally, remove any excess and blot everything with tissue paper so it’s not too wet or sticky when lipstick is applied.”

Question #8: What’s The Easiest Way To Do A Smokey Eye When Time Is Tight?

Morgane’s Answer: “Start off by applying a tiny amount of concealer onto your eyelids to ensure a smooth base. My favourite way to create a smokey eye is always with a jumbo eye pencil – I love the Caviar Sticks from Laura Mercier as you can just blend them out with fingers. Scribble them over your lids but stop right at the crease of your eyes – when you press with your finger you can feel your bone, that’s where your natural crease is – then quickly blend with a rounded, fluffy brush, or your fingers. Finish off with a kohl liner on both your top and bottom waterline and really try to get between the roots of your lashes. Blend everything out with eyeshadow if you want more depth and dimension, and remember, it doesn’t have to be neat and tidy, that’s the beauty of a smokey eye.”

Question #9: Should Blusher Be Worn & Applied A Certain Way, Or Does Anything Go? 

Morgane’s Answer: “I think everyone should own a cream blush. Why? Because they’re easier to apply than any other texture and they preserve that natural, glow-y bounce of your skin. Apply it on the apples of your cheeks with fingers or a sponge and take small, circular motions as you go. If I’ve used a sponge, I’ll use what’s left over the bridge of my nose and brow bone for a soft, sun-kissed flush."

Question #10: Finally, Is There A Simple Way To Apply Liquid Liner?

Morgane’s Answer: “People often think they need to get a perfect stroke of eyeliner in one go, but it doesn’t work like that. You should instead try depositing small lines little by little. Trace your winged flick with your eye open – especially if you have hooded eyes – as this will allow you to see where you want it to sit and avoid any droopiness. Get some good, thin cotton buds, too – I stock up constantly from Muji – and dip them in micellar water to correct the line and symmetry. It can take time, but it doesn’t need to be done in one big rush.”

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