10 Make-Up Tips For Lit-From Within Skin

Taking the time to prep your skin ahead of make-up makes all the difference. If you’re prone to puffiness, I recommend incorporating some form of cryotherapy into your routine. One easy DIY option is to wrap ice cubes in a flannel and gently press them over your face. The coolness of the ice temporarily constricts the blood vessels, thus reducing puffiness. One tool I always reach for is Sisley’s gua sha – it’s really effective at making you appear instantly fresher.

When it comes to topical skincare, don’t go overboard. Keep it simple: the combination I swear by is a hydrating moisturiser, a rich eye cream and quality primer. Augustinus Bader’s The Rich range feels nourishing and luxurious, the eye cream is a particular favourite of mine as it helps your concealer sit more evenly. Tatcha’s Silky Canvas Primer is so useful if you have texture as this multi-tasking formula blurs, primes and protects, covering all bases.

The temptation might be to apply more foundation if you’re after an even, flawless finish, but the key is actually to go easy. You can always add more, and working in light layers is the best way to build up coverage gradually. Dior Forever Foundation, Armani Luminous Silk and Westman Atelier Complexion Drops are the three base products I have on rotation and use depending on my client’s skin type. They never let me down because you can make them sheer and natural-looking, but you can also layer them into a medium coverage base without it looking cakey. These formulas create a radiant, fresh finish, last really well and look flattering under all types of lighting. If you’re looking to save, one high-street option I recommend is the L’Oréal True Match Nude Plumping Tinted Serum. The quality is excellent, and it holds up on the red carpet. 

To get that lit-from-within glow, underpainting is such an effective technique. By adding luminosity before applying foundation, this gives your skin such a subtle, pretty finish – preferable to your highlighter looking obvious. I tend to use a cream or liquid formula and Dior Star Glow is brilliant. Prime the skin, then dab highlighter onto the high points of the cheekbones, bridge of the nose, inner corner of the eyes and underneath the brow bone. Targeting these particular areas allows for maximum control of the final result, whereas an all-over glow can make you appear sweaty. Then, I apply foundation over the top and allow the highlighter to peek through. To top it off, you can go over these points with a cream – I rate the Victoria Beckham Beauty Reflex Highlighter Stick.

Some make-up artists use their fingers but I personally am never without a sponge and some firm blending brushes in my kit. I find brushes help you place product only in the areas where you want it to sit. The brand I always come back to is MyKitCo – it makes every brush type for every conceivable need, they’re extremely well-made and ultra-precise. To help soften any visible edges, I press a damp Beautyblender over the face which just melts everything together and creates a fresh, seamless finish.

When I’m on shoots, I probably use Vaseline’s classic petroleum jelly just as much as I use my actual make-up glow-boosters. It’s so useful for creating a fresh-looking sheen on the eyes, cheekbones, skin and body. In a pinch, you could even use a regular lip balm, as long as it’s not too greasy. 

Creams allow the light to bounce off the skin. There’s always a place for powder in my kit, especially on certain areas of the face prone to shine, but it absorbs the light, removing that glow. I think cream formulas help your skin appear fresher and more real. They also really melt into the skin, giving the illusion that you’re not actually wearing make-up, whereas if you look at powder on the face in direct sunlight, it’s more obvious.

There are several ways you can maintain a controlled glow if you have oily skin. First, use an oil-free moisturiser and limit glowy products to the high points of the face. Set the rest of your face with powder – M·A·C’s range is excellent, but I also love the Hourglass Translucent Powder. As the final step, lock everything in with a setting spray. I swear by the One/Size On ‘Til Dawn, but Charlotte Tilbury’s version is another great option. Then, don’t overlook blotting papers. It’s a retro beauty hack, but one that is so handy if you want to keep shine at bay without touching up your make-up with extra product. Pop them in your bag so you can blot while on the go.

If you’re doing your make-up for a special event where there’s likely to be flash photography, consider applying a bit more than usual as the impact of the flash can slightly bleach out the colour in your face. Don’t overdo it, but what you want is to elevate your usual make-up – think a more noticeable pop of blush and extra eyeliner – so your look translates better on-camera.

There’s nothing more useful than having a speedy signature look. Focus your efforts on your skin, a great concealer goes a long way. If you’re pressed for time, you could even blend that out over your entire face. Dab a bit of highlighter on the cheeks, a wash of cream bronzer – Chanel’s is my favourite – and finish it off with a slick of mascara. This combination will make you both look and feel put-together. 

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