How To Apply Eyeliner Like A Pro
Image: Westman Atelier
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How To Apply Eyeliner Like A Pro

Eyeliner has the power to define, lift and enhance the eyes but it can also be one of the trickiest products to master. From choosing between liquid, pencil and gel formulas to creating a flattering flick and making it last all day, make-up artists Jessica Kell and Alexandra Reader are here to share their top hacks…
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Image: Westman Atelier

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LIQUID LINER

"The best ones come in the form of a pen. They are the most compact and the easiest way to get a defined, neat line. Use the side of the nib to gently pull the liner from the middle of the eye to the outer corner, then use the tip to fill in from the middle to the inner corner, keeping the line close to the roots of the lashes. Though expensive, I don’t think you can’t beat Tom Ford’s Deeper Eye Defining Pen for this. It’s so easy to use and great for controlled flicks.” Jessica Kell

“When using liquid liner, the trick is to not work in one single movement. Instead, create your line in small sections, keeping the liner as close to the lash roots as possible. This way you can gradually build the shape. If you want to create a flick, always look straight ahead into a mirror and use the angle of your lower lash line as a guide for the direction of the flick, then connect it back up towards the upper lash line.”Alexandra Reader

“Another tip is to place a small dot where you want your flick to finish. Then join it back to the lash line with the liquid or a pencil – an easy trick for creating a more flattering shape.” – Jessica

KOHL & PENCILS

“Kohl and pencil liners are the best products for beginners. They are ideal for quick and easy definition with minimal fuss. Focus on getting it right into the roots of the lashes first, then blend it out afterwards. You should also warm the product slightly on the back of your hand before applying it – you’ll find you get a smoother application and will avoid dragging the skin around the eye." – Alexandra

“For the best finish, I recommend closing your eye and placing the pencil right into your lash line. Go back and forth until you have a soft, smudgy line emerging from the roots of your lashes. I then like to sharpen the pencil and go back to the line with my eye open, perfecting the shape and lifting it up and out at the outer corners for soft flicks.” – Jessica   

GEL LINER

“Gel formulas are brilliant because they offer the precision of a liquid but with more flexibility and room for error. Whether you want to create a soft, smoky line or a really defined wing, they are great. I recommend applying gel eyeliners with a small, angled or fine liner brush, working in short strokes rather than trying to sweep the entire line across the eye. Keep the brush almost horizontal against the lash line and build the intensity gradually.” – Alexandra 

“A clean, flexible brush is essential for gel liners. As is cleaning them with a cotton pad after every use, otherwise the gel formula builds up. Load up your brush with the gel, look downwards into a mirror and then paint your line with a light hand, starting in the inner corner and sweeping it across to the outer corner. I love the Jones Road Gel Liners, which make application so easy.” – Jessica 

“The most important thing with gels is to keep the pot closed whenever you’re not actively using it. Gel can dry out fast and this will cause the formula to drag rather than glide. I love using a water mixing gel such as the Inglot Duraline. Just a few drops brings a dried-out pot back to life.” – Alexandra 

CREAM PENCILS

“I love cream pencils, and coloured ones are such a great way to instantly open and refresh your eyes. Run one along the lower waterline from inner to outer edge; try to match it with your skin tone for some natural, easy definition. I then like to coat the lower lashes with a little waterproof mascara for extra definition. Makeup Forever has some great cream liners and I also love the ones by Sweed." – Jessica

“A cross between a traditional pencil and gel, creams tend to be softer and more blendable, which makes them particularly good for creating a smokey, diffused look. The trick with cream liners is to work quickly. Apply the pencil, then soften and diffuse it with a small brush before it sets. I often use a darker cream pencil along the upper lash line, then smudge a little shadow on top to lock it all down.” – Alexandra 

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MORE TIPS TO TRY

Experiment With Eyeshadow 

"If liner feels too intimidating, sweep a soft brown eyeshadow across the lash line using a brush for a delicate liner effect. Regardless of the formula you use, always use an eyeshadow primer underneath to grip the product and hold it in place." – Jessica

“If you want something softer, but still intense, press eyeshadow into your lash line using a firm, angled brush. To deepen the tones, dampen the brush first for better intensity.” – Alexandra 

"Use black eyeshadow over liquid, gel or kohl liner to lock it in place and soften harsh lines." – Jessica

"A final tip is to press a matching eyeshadow over your pencil or gel liner to blur the edges and improve longevity." – Alexandra

Skip Liquids & Start Simple

"Start with a really good pencil liner in a flattering colour – not black. Warm brown or soft grey are much easier to wear." – Jessica

"Draw little dashes between the lashes rather than attempting one continuous line. Once you're comfortable, simply join them together." – Alexandra

"Sometimes simply darkening the roots of the lashes makes the biggest difference and is all you need to open up the eye. You can do this with just a smudge of kohl or cream." – Alexandra

Adapt Your Liner To Your Eye Shape

"For hooded eyes, keep the liner relatively thin across the lid and create the wing while looking straight ahead. Sometimes a 'bat wing' shape works best." – Alexandra

"For round eyes, concentrate liner on the outer two-thirds of the eye to create a more elongated shape." – Alexandra

"For downturned eyes, avoid taking the liner down at the outer corner. Instead, angle the wing upwards towards the temple." – Alexandra

Keep Your Look Soft 

"A precise line underneath the eye isn't as flattering. Keep it soft and slightly smudged, and use a shade underneath that’s lighter than the one on your top lash line." – Jessica

"Apply pencil or eyeshadow only to the outer third or half of the lower lash line, blending it upwards and outwards. Thick black liner all the way around the eye will just make it appear smaller." – Alexandra

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Tightline For Subtle Definition

"Tightlining is a make-up artist's best trick for instantly defined eyes without looking too heavy. I recommend using a black or deep brown liner for the upper waterline." – Jessica

"I swear by tightlining as a make-up technique. It makes the lash line look fuller without obvious eyeliner, and instantly helps the eyes appear more awake. I recommend a nude or beige pencil in the lower waterline to brighten and lift the eye." – Alexandra

Swap Black For Colour 

"Plum and navy add definition while making your eye colour pop, while bronze and cinnamon shades blend beautifully into the skin." – Jessica

"Brown gives a softer, more effortless finish; grey is perfect for smoky definition; while navy brightens the whites of the eyes. Deep plum and burgundy tones are universally flattering too." – Alexandra

Use A Primer

"Always use an eyelid primer before anything else. Prime underneath the eye too if you're wearing liner there. I swear by the NARS Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base which has been a staple in my kit for years." – Jessica

"Make sure lids are clean and free from excess skincare, then use a thin layer of primer followed by a light dusting of powder if you're oily." – Alexandra

DOS & DON’TS

"The biggest mistake people make with eyeliner is letting it drift away from the roots of the lashes. Fill any gaps with a soft, black eyeshadow if needed." – Jessica

"Start thin and build. It's much easier to add eyeliner than remove it, so don’t go in with a heavy hand. Eyeliner requires patience. I also advise against pulling the skin taut while you apply your eyeliner – this sets you up for crinkling of eyeliner when you let go, as well as making smudging more likely." – Alexandra

“Always look straight ahead when you apply eyeliner. It can be tricky to master this, but it’s the best way to see the real placement.” – Alexandra 


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