An Insider’s Guide To Rio de Janeiro
STAY
Arpoador Hotel
At the edge of the famous Ipanema Beach, this boutique hotel has a relaxed, chilled vibe. There’s a real focus on wellness – yoga classes take place on the outdoor terrace overlooking the beach and you can ride along the boulevard on the hotel bikes. I love the beachside restaurant for its fresh, seasonal dishes. It’s the perfect spot to relax with friends and watch the sunset, as is the rooftop deck with its panoramic ocean views.
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Chez Georges
Tucked away in the hills of Santa Teresa, Chez Georges is an architecturally stunning hotel. It’s set within a 1970s modernist mansion with beautiful views of the city. It’s also surrounded by dense greenery, including huge palm trees and tropical plants. There are just rooms and suites, plus an outdoor pool with the most amazing views. It’s in a great location, close to eclectic art galleries, cobblestone streets, and some of Rio’s best bars and restaurants.
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Janeiro Hotel
Janeiro Hotel on Leblon beach is all about understated luxury. Amid minimalist decor, spacious rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows, you can wake up to sweeping ocean vistas. The restaurant, also with great views, serves traditional Brazilian dishes. Close to some of the city’s best shopping areas, it’s a great option at the more luxury end of the scale.
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Santa Teresa Hotel
Santa Teresa is a great area to stay in – it has a village-like feel that’s vibrant and buzzy. This hotel is housed inside a historic mansion that’s surrounded by tropical gardens. The personalised service is excellent, and the breakfasts are a highlight. It’s quiet enough to feel like you’re away from the noise, while being close to downtown’s cultural attractions.
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EAT & DRINK
Aprazível
This popular Santa Teresa restaurant feels rustic and refined at the same time. You can spot the cable cars below and soak up the fun atmosphere – there’s always an interesting crowd here. It serves Brazilian cuisine with a modern edge, made with fresh, local ingredients. Surrounded by lush greenery, the open-air dining room is truly magical.
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Bira de Guaratiba
This is a hidden gem in the western zone, close to some of the city’s best galleries. Bira serves seafood dishes like moqueca (fish stew) and catches of the day. It has spectacular views of Restinga de Marambaia. It’s slightly off the beaten track and offers a rustic, authentic experience.
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Oro
This Michelin-starred restaurant in Leblon is headed up by celebrity chef Felipe Bronze, whose creative tasting menu puts a modern spin on traditional Brazilian flavours. Every dish is a work of art, and the chic dining room makes it an experience you won’t forget.
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Arp Hotel Bar
The beachfront bar at the Arpoador hotel is worth visiting whether you’re staying there or not. You can watch the sun set with a selection of caipirinhas and small plates like ceviche, mini empanadas and salads. It’s the perfect place to unwind with drinks while soaking in views of the Atlantic.
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La Bicyclette
This newly opened café is inside Jardim Botânico, a beautiful botanical garden to the south of the city. Stop in for artisanal coffees and colourful brunch dishes. There’s also a selection of delicious pastries, freshly baked bread and deli items. It’s a favourite among locals for mid-morning meetups and afternoon breaks.
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Boteco Rainha
Tucked away in Leblon, Boteco Rainha brings something different to Rio’s classic bar scene. Chef Pedro de Artagão serves Portuguese and Spanish-inspired dishes like escabeche de sardinha (marinated sardines) and camarão à Ramiro (sautéed shrimp). With its famous crispy pork belly (torresmo de barriga) and lively vibe, it’s a spot you won’t want to miss.
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Labuta Bar
Right in the heart of Rio’s Centro, Labuta Bar – or just ‘Labutinha’ to locals – puts a modern spin on a traditional boteco. It’s super chilled, with beach chairs out on the sidewalk. It’s a great spot to people-watch and spend an hour or two before moving on to a late-night bar.
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Braseiro da Gávea
A beloved spot in Baixo Gávea since 1995, Braseiro da Gávea offers a quintessential carioca experience. With its lively atmosphere and hearty Brazilian dishes, it’s famous for grilled meats served with classic sides like arroz de brócolis (rice with broccoli), farofa (toasted casava) and fries. The bustling calçada (sidewalk), especially on weekends, is the perfect place to enjoy cold chope (draft beer) and caipirinhas.
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SHOP
Casa Farm
Our Farm Rio flagship store is in Ipanema. Casa Farm showcases our vibrant, bohemian-inspired clothing that reflects the spirit of Rio. You’ll also find homeware and accessories, but it’s so much more than just a store – it’s a cultural hub celebrating Brazilian creativity and craftsmanship.
Visit FARMRIO.COM
Feira do Lavradio
This vibrant antique market in Lapa offers a treasure trove of vintage finds, from clothing to homeware. Held monthly, it’s a lively blend of shopping, music and food – a must-visit for bargain hunters and collectors.
Pulsa
Pulsa curates high-end fashion labels from around the world, offering a mix of unique styles and cutting-edge designs. It’s a go-to destination for fashionistas looking for exclusive pieces you won’t find elsewhere.
Visit PULSARIO.COM.BR
Pinga
Pinga is a concept store that stocks sustainable, local brands. There’s a thoughtfully curated selection of clothing, accessories and homeware, all with an emphasis on ethical production and Brazilian artistry.
Visit PINGASTORE.COM.BR
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Pexels/Gabrielle Meschini
DO & SEE
Football Match at Maracanã
There’s nothing quite like being at Maracanã. The first time I felt the roar of the crowd during a Flamengo match, it gave me chills. The energy, the singing fans, and the sheer passion of Brazilian football are unforgettable. Every game feels like a celebration – win or lose, it's pure carioca soul.
Roda de Chorinho
Chorinho is a soulful music, born in the late 19th century and blending classical European influences with Brazilian rhythms. From casual roda de choro gatherings in neighbourhood squares to live performances in Santa Teresa’s cosy bars and the bustling streets of Centro, the melodies fill the streets of Rio.
Mirante do Arvrão
This viewpoint in Vidigal offers breathtaking views of Rio’s coastline. It’s a great spot for sunrise or sunset, and offers a unique perspective on the city’s natural beauty.
Fasano Hotel Swimming Pool
The Fasano hotel’s rooftop pool is exclusive, but it’s well worth the splurge. With stunning views of Ipanema Beach, it’s a special place to relax, sip a cocktail and enjoy Rio’s beauty in style.
Sunset at Mureta da Urca
A beloved local hangout, Mureta da Urca offers spectacular sunset views over Guanabara Bay. Bring a drink, grab a spot on the wall, and join locals in savouring this simple yet magical Rio tradition.
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