A Stylist On Her New Favourite Designers
FOR MINIMALISTS:
Esse Studios
This Australian brand is all about quality basics – the kind of pared-down, minimalist but ultimately long-lasting separates that will stay in your wardrobe for years to come. It's intelligent dressing with modernity at its core. Form and function are everything. If you're a fan of Totême and Loulou Studio, this is a brand for you. Founder Charlotte Hicks established Esse Studios in 2019 as an antidote to fast, seasonal collections and relentless drops. This is slow, sustainable stuff – a tightly edited capsule with signature styles presented as 'editions'. As you'd expect, there’s a heavy dose of monochrome and neutrals throughout but don’t fret colour fans, there's still something for you here. A modern palette of acid orange, buttermilk, cherry red and bottle green gives a feminine edge to what is essentially a collection inspired by men's tailoring.
Already available to buy through NET-A-PORTER, Farfetch and Frankie Shop, Esse is quickly making its mark. The strongest pieces? If you're looking for a longline leather skirt, you'd be hard pressed to find a better one, while the ‘Lave’ tailored trousers are made from a heavyweight soft cotton and hang like a dream. Finally, if a trench is on your list, Esse’s simple but perfectly formed coat is guaranteed to stand the test of time.
Visit EsseStudios.com
FOR AFFORDABLE FASHION:
Because Of Alice
If wearable neutrals and modern suiting are part of your signature style, but Frankie Shop is out of your budget, check out Because of Alice – or BOA as it’s more commonly known. Created by Manchester-based fashion influencer Alice Olivia Cross, the brand is all about contemporary looks at an affordable price. Racer-back vests, vinyl trousers, oversized tailoring, knitted dresses… There's a host of separates here with which to replicate an Instagram-worthy wardrobe at a fraction of the price. Blazers vary from double-breasted masculine cuts to belted slim silhouettes, all in a variety of chic, muted tones. A vegan leather wrap skirt is reminiscent of Nanushka – only this one is an absolute steal. At the more expensive end of the collection, a range of coats span asymmetric and tailored to relaxed and mid-length.
Visit BecauseOfAlice.com
FOR FULL-ON GLAMOUR:
New Arrivals
High-octane glamour is what New Arrivals does best – cocktail dresses and gowns with serious impact, flamboyant sex appeal and a luxe edge. Launched a couple of years ago in Istanbul by Ilkyaz Ozel, these designs are for the body-confident, fun-loving woman who has a serious social life. Sequins, marabou feathers, cut-outs – there's no detail left untouched, but there is a classy, more ladylike quality to some of the strongest looks in the collection. The ‘Holly’ dress is a real showstopper. With its elegant ankle-length, figure-hugging silhouette, necktie and cut-out detailing, it’ll make you look put together in a flash. If bling is your thing, you'd be hard pressed to find a chicer sequin number than the ‘Phoenix’ in silver; delicate spaghetti straps and large paillette discs make this simple design stand out, and its reminiscent of Calvin Klein at his best. I'm never one to turn down a marabou moment and there are plenty of fanciful feathers to pluck out in this collection. My favourite is the ‘Rossy’ in white – the longer length adds vintage appeal to a prime boudoir moment. Once you’ve exhausted the extensive New Arrivals platform, it's worth diving into the Moda Operandi edit.
Visit NewArrivals.co
FOR DEMI-COUTURE:
J'Amemme
We're all more aware of Ukrainian designers these days, and new label J'amemme – based in Kyiv – is one to look out for (particularly as a percentage of sales go towards funding the Ukrainian army). It's so refreshing to see a risky, dramatic signature emerge from a new designer. Just be warned this demi-couture world is far removed from your everyday staples – designer Julie Yarmoliuk uses origami folding methods to create volume and extreme structure, mainly out of organza. These architectural designs have both a power and lightness of touch, while the clever colour palette – think watercolour hues and diluted neon – makes for a refreshingly different aesthetic. The ‘Alisha’ dress in yellow is like a giant origami petal and it’s incredibly striking. For something more understated, look out for the ‘Alex’ dress – it’s particularly pretty and versatile in beige. If volume really isn't your thing, there are beautiful silk long line dresses to choose from. The ‘Diana’ dress in dusty rose, with its ruched high neck and shoulder pads, really is a thing of beauty.
Visit J'Amemme.com
FOR VINTAGE DETAILS:
Honeybea
If vintage is your thing and, like me, you have a current patchwork and crochet obsession, the Honeybea shop is quite a find. Tucked away in Toronto's Art & Design district, owner Rebecca Caulford carefully creates handmade and unique pieces using heirloom textiles and carefully sourced fabrics. She's quite the upcycling pioneer. If you're a SEA or Hunter Bell fan, you must shop her collection online. The Bonny knits in rainbow crochet have been a sell-out, and if you're after a patchwork jacket, then this is your opportunity to buy a unique, one-off design; each one is made from a vintage quilt. The dresses are also pure boho heaven – Rebecca has a great eye for colour matching fabrics and prints – and these decorative pieces feel really special.
Visit HoneyBea.ca
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