How This Fashion Founder Turned Her Business Into A Cult Label
What first drew you to fashion?
I’ve always been fascinated by how the right clothes can completely change how you carry yourself. I’m half Danish, half English and growing up between those two cultures definitely shaped my eye. I’ve always been drawn to the restraint and functionality of Scandinavian design, but also the eccentricity and sense of occasion you get in British style. After university, I worked at Selfridges and then spent four years with Alex Eagle. Selfridges taught me a lot about the customer, the commercial side of fashion and how important the entire shopping experience is. At Alex Eagle, I learned so much about building a distinct point of view and creating a world that people want to be part of.
Was founding your own label always the plan?
It evolved quite organically. I always knew I wanted to build something of my own eventually but GROES really came out of a personal frustration with my wardrobe – and noticing that the gap between luxury and high-street fashion was only getting bigger. I felt there was space for a brand that offered that luxury approach to design at a price point that felt more accessible.
Maintaining that balance is probably one of the most challenging parts of the business. We source beautiful fabrics, including from Italy, and spend a lot of time developing fit and getting the details right. Sometimes that means going through several rounds of samples or deciding not to produce something because it isn't quite there.
Who or what has influenced the aesthetic most?
I'm always inspired by how women actually live in their clothes. I love seeing someone put an outfit together in a way I wouldn't have thought of. London and Copenhagen are both big sources of inspiration too. I love the contrast between the two: the energy and slightly undone nature of London, and the more considered, effortless approach to dressing that you often see in Copenhagen. I also look at vintage clothing, menswear, interiors, architecture and photography. Sometimes the most interesting ideas come from something that has nothing to do with fashion at all. I’m much more interested in style than trends. The aim with GROES has always been to make things that still feel relevant several years after you bought them, and to design pieces that make you feel your most confident version of yourself.
What gave you the confidence to turn the idea into a business?
I’m not sure I ever reached a point where I felt completely confident, and being totally honest, I am still not completely confident, but sometimes you have to start before you feel ready. What did give me confidence was the product. Once the first blazer started taking shape and I saw people wearing and loving it, I felt there was something there. I also approached the early stages quite practically. I tried to understand the numbers, margins, production and customer as deeply as I understood the creative side. Having that framework made the risk feel slightly less abstract.
What was the biggest challenge in the early days?
Learning to do almost everything yourself, and juggling that every day. When you launch a small brand, you are simultaneously the creative director, customer service team, buyer, production manager, marketing team and finance department. You can spend the morning fitting a blazer and the afternoon trying to understand a shipping issue. Cash flow is also a constant consideration in fashion because you’re paying for product months before you sell it. Learning how to buy stock intelligently without limiting growth has probably been one of the biggest lessons.
How do you balance creativity with the commercial side?
At the beginning, I probably thought of creativity and commerce as separate things, whereas now I understand that the best product has to satisfy both. You can design something beautiful, but if the customer doesn’t understand how it fits into her life, it isn’t doing its job. We look closely at what women are buying, returning, wearing repeatedly and asking us to bring back. That information definitely informs what we develop next, but I’m conscious of not designing purely from a spreadsheet either. We intentionally design each piece to be as versatile as possible, and it needs to pass the test of being wearable in three different ways before we sign it off.
How important has social media been in growing GROES?
Instagram allowed us to create the world of GROES before we had the resources of a larger fashion house. It gave people a sense of the woman, the clothes and the lifestyle around the brand. But I think social media works best for us when it doesn’t feel too much like marketing. We want to have fun and try not to take it too seriously. Some of the strongest content is simply seeing a woman wear her blazer in a real way, or giving people a glimpse behind the scenes.
What do you think customers are responding to right now?
I think women are becoming more selective. There is so much product and so much newness now that I think people are looking for pieces that justify taking up space in their wardrobes. Our customer seems to respond particularly strongly to versatility. She wants a blazer she can wear to work, to dinner, while travelling and at the weekend. She wants something that feels special but isn’t so precious that it only gets worn twice a year. There is definitely a move towards buying fewer things, but expecting more from each of them.
Who is the GROES woman?
I’ve deliberately never wanted her to be defined by one age or one type of woman. She is confident in her taste and doesn’t necessarily need to be the loudest person in the room. She appreciates beautiful things but isn’t overly precious about them. She can mix a great coat with something vintage or wear a blazer with an old T-shirt. What connects our customers is probably more an attitude than a demographic. There is an ease to the way she dresses.
Tell us your definition of success…
Initially, success was simply seeing someone I didn’t know wearing GROES, and that still gives me an enormous thrill. Now, I think more about longevity. I want to build a genuinely profitable, independent British fashion business with products women come back to year after year, without sacrificing the core values of the brand and why I built it in the first place. I’m much less interested in growth for the sake of it. I want GROES to become one of those brands whose pieces earn a permanent place in your wardrobe.
What’s your approach to sustainability?
Sustainability is really about longevity and restraint. We design seasonless pieces, produce in considered quantities and carry our strongest styles forward rather than constantly replacing them with something new. We also rarely do sales, and when we do, they’re usually on samples or damaged stock rather than excess product. A blazer that someone wears for five or ten years is ultimately much more aligned with how I want GROES to operate than something designed around a three-month trend cycle. I’m always conscious of fashion’s environmental impact and there’s always more we can improve, but longevity, restraint and making fewer, better pieces are really at the heart of how we approach it.
How has your own personal style evolved since starting the brand?
I think it’s become much simpler. Being surrounded by clothes all day has strangely made me want fewer of them. I know much more clearly now which silhouettes I feel like myself in, and I’m less tempted by something just because it’s new. I’ve become a real uniform dresser. A blazer, great trousers, a white shirt, a knit, a beautiful coat, I tend to return to the same shapes again and again and just change the styling. Starting GROES has made me more confident in repetition.
Is there one piece from the collection you’ll never tire of?
The Kate Blazer. It was one of the pieces that really defined GROES and it still represents exactly what I wanted the brand to be: strong but understated, beautifully cut and incredibly easy to wear. I love that different women make it look completely different. Someone will wear it with tailored trousers and heels, and someone else will throw it over leggings or jeans. That adaptability is what makes a piece timeless to me.
What’s something about building a fashion brand that people don’t see from the outside?
How operational it is. From the outside, fashion can look like shoots, fittings, events and designing collections, but a huge part of running a brand is logistics, forecasting, production timelines, invoices, returns, margins and problem solving. You can also never predict how a day is going to go or what emergencies or problems might pop up.
If you could go back and give yourself one piece of advice, what would it be?
I’d tell myself not to wait for everything to feel perfect before putting it out into the world. In the beginning, I spent so much time worrying about whether every detail was exactly right, but you learn far more from actually launching, listening and adapting. A brand is never really finished; it evolves with you and with the customer. I think I’d have trusted my instincts more and worried a little less about having all the answers from day one.
What have you learned about yourself as a founder?
I would say that I’m much more resilient than I thought. Running a business gives you extremely high highs and quite spectacular lows, sometimes within the same day. You have to become comfortable with things going wrong without interpreting every problem as a catastrophe. I’ve also realised how much I enjoy the commercial side. I started GROES because I loved product and creative direction, but understanding what drives the business, customer behaviour and figuring out where the growth is coming from has become genuinely fascinating to me.
When you look at the brand today, what are you most proud of?
Seeing women return to buy another piece, hearing that someone has recommended us to a friend, or seeing a customer wear the same blazer again and again feels much more meaningful than a single big moment. I’m also proud that we’ve been able to build a very clear identity without huge resources. On a personal level, being named in the Forbes Europe 30 Under 30 list this year was a pinch-me moment. I remember being at university and seeing people on the list and thinking how incredible it was that they'd managed to build something of their own. To then be recognised for GROES, not even two years in, from an idea in my head, felt quite surreal.
Can you share the biggest lesson you’ve learnt since launching your own label?
That the customer will tell you almost everything you need to know if you pay attention. You can have all sorts of theories about what will sell, but once the product is in the world, the behaviour is much more valuable than the opinion. What gets reordered, what gets returned, what women wear repeatedly and what they email asking for, those things are incredibly informative. The challenge is learning when to listen.
What’s next for you and the brand?
It’s really about taking what has worked and building on it, rather than feeling the need to reinvent. For our next collection, it’s been all about refinement. I've been looking back at the pieces we've been most proud of and the silhouettes that have become part of our core. We’re introducing leather for the first time, which is something I’ve wanted to do since launching GROES but only now feels right. I live in leather jackets and really see them as a city wardrobe staple, so I’m particularly excited for those pieces to launch in October. We’re also investing much more in the physical world of GROES through dinners, pop-ups and events. I love creating opportunities for people to experience the brand in real life and connect with the community around it. It still feels like we’re only at the beginning, and there’s so much I want to explore.
Visit GROES.COM & follow @GROES.LDN
Photographer credit: Victoria Adamson
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