The Wardrobe Hero: Tuxedo Jackets
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Where It Started
In the 1930s, tuxedo jackets were seen as a more relaxed alternative to traditional tailcoats – while still being a symbol of refinement and sophistication. Set apart from dinner jackets by the satin facing on their lapels, they were originally designed to be worn by society’s elite, but quickly became synonymous with Hollywood stars and high-fashion figures. The actress Marlene Dietrich famously donned a tuxedo in the 1930 film Morocco, and by the 1960s Yves Saint Laurent had released his version for women, suggestively named Le Smoking.
But it was photographer Helmut Newton who really made Le Smoking iconic. Known for his unapologetically risqué approach, his shoot for French Vogue in 1975 featured an androgynous woman standing in a dimly-lit Parisian street, slicked back hair, cigarette-in-hand, wearing the suit. This black, sharp-shouldered jacket was designed to empower women, with androgynous lines and a sense of elegant rebellion – hence why it was such a turning point in 20th-century fashion history.
Saint Laurent; Dolce&Gabbana
How It’s Going
Whether you nod to the season with velvet trims or adopt a power shoulder, designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Victoria Beckham and Tom Ford all offer slightly nuanced versions of this wardrobe hero. From almost minidress lengths at Wardrobe NYC to new names in tailoring like Laura Pitharas – tuxedo jackets were omnipresent in the AW24 collections.
Who’s Wearing Them Now
Fashion girls are finding new ways to style this classic piece – especially now that party dressing is on the agenda. Take style cues from Lisa Grenn and throw an oversized style over a silky slip dress for a cool yet elegant evening look. Or, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley who wore a sheer body and statement jewels with hers. Jeans and a blazer is the high/low look of choice for Laura Wills, and for Charlotte Emily Sanders it's all about keeping it chic and monochrome .
Get The Look
There are a few high-end brands that do tuxedo blazers so well. Saint Laurent is the obvious choice when it comes to luxury, but newer brands like Blazé Milano also offer a cool, seasonal twist on this womenswear hero. For more budget-friendly options, H&M, Zara and Mango all have satin-trimmed styles this season.
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Inspiration credits : @ENOLANMELBOURNE | @ROSIEHW | @CHARLOTTEEMILYSANDERS | @LISA.GRENN
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