Everything Alex Steinherr Knows About Great Denim

High-rise jeans have never been my friend. I’m 5’11” and don’t have a particularly defined waist, so they just don’t work with my proportions. I prefer my jeans to sit a little lower on the hip with a looser fit; it just looks more relaxed and unfussy to me. One of the best things you can do is figure out what actually suits your body rather than trying to make every new denim silhouette work for you. I also don’t believe in washing them after every wear, usually every ten days or so. Overwashing doesn’t do denim any favours.

Rigid denim is my preference. A stretch jean can start to lose its shape after a few washes, which defeats the point of finding the perfect fit in the first place. I love how proper rigid denim softens over time – there’s something very satisfying about a pair of jeans that actually gets better with age.

Ignore the size on the label – denim sizing is wildly inconsistent (especially vintage) and I often go up a size because I prefer a little room. Also, make sure you sit down in the fitting room, because that’s how you find out if the rise is comfortable or not. They need to feel as good as they look – preferably without having to hold your breath.

If jeans fit well everywhere except the waist, get them taken in by a tailor. It’s a relatively small alteration that can make a big difference. With rigid denim, wear them around the house for a few hours to let the fabric soften before committing to a full day out. But equally, don’t buy jeans that are painfully tight on the assumption they’ll eventually stretch. Breaking them in shouldn’t be hard work.

Pin Denim is my recommendation for sourcing vintage jeans. The beauty of vintage is that it’s already been worn in, so the fit is the fit – there won’t be any surprises after a few wears. My staples are Levi’s 501s and 505s (similar to a 501 but with a zip-fly) and I’m increasingly drawn to 70s-inspired flares or a more subtle bootcut. Gérard Darel is a brand that does great flares. I also love a white jean: AGOLDE does a great chalky wash in the Arc style. Finally, on the high street, Massimo Dutti does a really good wide-leg style in lots of different washes and Weekday has a broad variety of cuts and washes – I particularly like the Missy if you want a looser silhouette.

Apart from my vintage Levi’s, my most-worn jeans are actually from Zara. I’m really not a denim snob. That said, if you do want to invest, Khaite does brilliant denim and I have a pair of Saint Laurent jeans that are perfect. Just remember a higher price tag doesn’t guarantee a better fit – some of my favourite jeans cost next to nothing.

If you find a pair that fits perfectly, buy them in multiple washes or colours. The Zara mid-rise straight-leg jeans are a perfect example. I have them in both a light wash and a mid-blue. They’re different enough to justify owning both. Owning a large collection of jeans doesn’t bother me considering how often I wear them. They’re the backbone of my wardrobe.

My final tip is this: if you love a boyfriend jean, cut out the middleman and buy men’s jeans. I have a few pairs of straight-leg jeans from Zara Man that have that slightly slouchy, off-duty weekend look, especially in a classic blue wash. Don’t forget, Levi’s 501s were originally designed for men, so there’s clearly something in it.

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