Trend Report: Tuxedo Jackets
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The Origins
In the 1930s, tuxedo jackets were seen as a more relaxed alternative to traditional tailcoats – while still being a symbol of refinement and sophistication. Set apart from dinner jackets by the satin facing on their lapels, they were originally designed to be worn by society’s elite, but quickly became synonymous with Hollywood stars and high-fashion figures. The actress Marlene Dietrich famously donned a tuxedo in the 1930 film Morocco, and by the 1960s Yves Saint Laurent had released his version for women, suggestively named Le Smoking. This slick, black, sharp-shouldered jacket was designed to empower women, with androgynous lines and a sense of elegant rebellion – hence why it’s considered such a turning point in 20th-century fashion history.
The Trend
One of the season’s biggest looks is pared-back everyday styles, executed in best-in-class fabrics and the tux jacket – an elevated version of a black blazer – is exactly that. From cropped cuts at Jonathan Simkhai to exaggerated silhouettes at Saint Laurent, several designers sent tuxes down the AW23 runways. Even Valentino is playing with brighter colours to further subvert the traditional idea of what tuxedo dressing looks like.
The Fans
There’s a reason this trend keeps coming back. Everyone from Kate Moss to Zendaya has stepped out in statement looks lately. Content creator @AlisonToby is also a fan, offering fresh party look inspiration, while @HaileyBieber has played homage to the original in current season Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent. Juxtaposed with vintage-wash denim and t-shirts, or by layering oversized styles over dresses, it seems the fashion elite have found a new way to wear this iconic piece.
SAINT LAURENT
How To Get The Look
Whether you prefer high-end designer labels, contemporary brands or stylish options from the high street, tuxedo jackets are now readily available. Saint Laurent is still the go-to at the higher end, but younger brands like Petar Petrov and Bite Studios are putting contemporary twists on this womenswear hero. For more budget-friendly options, Reiss, H&M, Zara and Mango all have a wide range of satin-trimmed styles to inspire you this season.
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