An A-List Brow Expert Shares Her Best Tips

Your brows should enhance your natural beauty and features. I started off working at a small salon where brow shaping was £1. It was a fast-paced learning experience, and I’ll admit some of my early results were far from perfect, but it taught me precision, speed and the importance of tailoring a look to an individual – because why would you not? We all come from different backgrounds and have different features. There is no one-size-fits-all approach. 

Leaving a few extra hairs is key. An early mentor often got frustrated with me for doing this, but I believe it’s the key to a natural finish – go too clean or defined, and the shape looks unnatural. This instinct has now become my signature approach – you want to enhance rather than overpower. Focus on a natural shape with a little polish. 

Brow length needs to match your eye shape. If the tails of your brows extend too far downward at the edges of your eyes, they can create a heavy or tired appearance. Slightly shortening them can lift your face and create balance. The ideal length varies person to person. For example, on a round face, shorter brows can add definition and structure. I rarely trim the tail of brows since most people naturally have shorter ones. However, if they extend beyond what I believe is a good length, I will adjust them carefully to maintain facial harmony – trust me, it makes a big difference.

Overly thin brows should be avoided. I still see people pluck theirs too much. This throws off facial symmetry and disrupts the overall balance of your features. You want to think of brow maintenance like applying make-up – you aim for balance. Never go overboard.

DIY maintenance is doable. I am a big believer in getting your shape and positioning in place with an expert, then maintaining the condition where you can at home – unless you’re on a real ‘overhaul’ journey whereby you need more professional expertise. At home, I recommend using the Navy Margot Nippers Tweezers (the best for grip) to pluck any stray hairs that come back after your treatment – be it threading or waxing. Avoid shaping above your brows to prevent breakage or ruining the shape. 

Threading is the best technique. I find it provides the most precise and effective results for framing your face. It allows for detailed definition, while maintaining a natural, clean and polished effect. Depending on your individual needs, I may also recommend a brow tint or lightening to enhance your arches further, but shape comes first. 

Microblading shouldn’t be the only option. I personally don’t offer it as a service because my focus is on enhancing what you already have. That said, it can be a great solution for those dealing with permanent hair loss or sparse brows. One common misconception is that microblading eliminates the need for brow care. In reality, many who get it end up neglecting proper maintenance. Originally developed in Japan for individuals who had lost their brows due to conditions like cancer, alopecia and other health issues, the technique mimics natural hair strokes to restore their appearance. However, it doesn’t always take well on every skin type, as the pigment is placed superficially. Many people also don’t realise that microblading requires ongoing upkeep, and it’s not necessarily the best fix for uneven brows. While there are many talented professionals who deliver excellent results, it’s important to weigh up these factors before committing to a permanent solution.

Understanding your undertones is the key to good-looking brows. For example, dark brows may have undertones ranging from ashy brown to olive or dark brown, so it’s important to choose a shade that complements these. If you choose one that contrasts it, everything looks sharp and unnatural. For blondes, undertones often lean towards green and reddish hues. If the latter sounds familiar, applying another reddish shade will cause a mismatch, so opt for ashy browns instead. Generally, most brows have ashy undertones, while those of Asian descent may have dark, blackish-brown undertones. The key is to make sure your colour matches, otherwise it’s jarring and overly dramatic. Always get a consultation at a counter if you’re unsure.

Less is more – it’s better to be safe than sorry. If you’re not sure where to start, try brow gels. Whether it’s Trish McEvoy’s Brow Perfector Pomade – the best – or a clear gel, you can easily define brows now without going heavy on colour. I often use a subtle gel to add a fuller, natural finish once I’ve created the perfect shape. Speaking of Trish McEvoy products, I also love her Precision Brow Shaper which comes in three colours and has an easy, built-in brush. As for the pomade, it’s incredible for taming and grooming brows with a soft, natural hold.

It's important to remember that brow growth takes time. If you’ve just plucked a few brow hairs, then the follicle is still healthy, so some products will stimulate regrowth. However, most brows have a growth cycle of 65 to 90 days, so patience is key. If your follicle is damaged – which an expert can tell you – no product will work. You’ll need proper treatment to recover your brows.

Angelina Jolie is someone I’d love to work with. Her brows are a bit on the thinner side, so I’d love to enhance them. Another favourite is Sandra Bullock – her brows are already perfect, but I’d love to elongate the ends a little to complement her deep-set eyes. I can already picture the perfect shape. 

There are a few key brow mistakes we all make. One is over-focusing on the brows – some people spend too much time shaping or defining their arches, which can result in an overly done look. The trick is to keep everything soft, enhancing what you have. I also see a lot of people crossing the brow bone. This is where the shape extends too far to the bone. To fix this, stick to the natural shape you have, following your arch and avoiding overly dramatic angles when you fill it in. Lastly, leave removal to the pros, unless it’s the odd stray hair. You want to keep as much fullness as possible to avoid uneven or patchy brows.

Exfoliating brows can help growth. When you exfoliate your face, remember to gently take the scrub or liquid around your brow area too. It helps to remove dead skin cells and keep the hair follicles healthy. Another tip is to nourish them – treat them with the same care as your head hair. Use oils to keep them strong and healthy. Natural ingredients like rosemary and castor oil are excellent. That being said, it is a myth that oil alone can stimulate new growth. The key to regrowth is looking after the follicles. 

Lastly, your brows don’t need to be symmetrical. Very few of us have naturally symmetrical arches – hence the ‘sisters not twins’ saying. If your brows are uneven in height, Botox can be an option to relax certain muscles and create a more balanced look, but I generally recommend this for people over 30. Non-invasive methods, like using a gua sha to massage and relax the muscles around your brow area, can also help. It’s all about finding the right approach for your face – be it through small adjustments or professional treatments – to enhance your natural symmetry.

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