A Leading Make-Up Artist Shares Her Top Tips
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Never underestimate the power of a good face mask. When you want to look good fast, it’s one of the best products you can reach for. I recommend applying a lotion to skin first – like an essence. Press this onto your skin and then apply a mask – be it sheets or a cream. Doing this will help the moisture to penetrate properly into the deeper layers of your skin. It’s what I always do for clients before they hit the red carpet.
Lip prep is essential for wearing bold colours. I believe everyone can wear vivid shades, you just need to hydrate your lips properly first. Before you apply your chosen lip shade, do two things: first, blot off any excess moisture, as this will ensure a longer-lasting effect. Second, use a concealer to paint a ‘concealed outline’ around the outer perimeter of the lips. This helps to create a clean canvas on which to apply the lipstick. For a precise finish, I recommend using a lip brush to apply the lipstick, or for a softer finish, you could apply the lipstick first to the centre of the lips using the bullet or a lip brush, and then diffuse your lip line with a cotton bud. Correct any mistakes using a thin cotton bud together with a non-oily makeup remover – micellar waters are great for this.
Speaking of concealer, it can prolong the look of eyeshadows too. One of my best tips is to apply a thin layer of a concealer, like Armani’s Luminous Silk, to your lids and then set this with loose powder before applying any eyeshadow. This creates a great, grippy base for powders and liquids to adhere to. You’ll find nothing budges if you do this step first.
Eye pencils can and should be worked into the lashes. I love working them right into the root of lashes and on the underside of your waterline, top and bottom – this is the key to getting a really intense, smokey look. If it feels too much, try colours like navy, aubergine or green instead of black. These colours are still impactful, but far more forgiving than jet-black. Always use a cream pencil or one with a gel formula – these glide on easily and are softer to blend. Kosas has some beautiful gel liners that are totally foolproof.
Eyes can benefit from a little massage too. We often focus lymphatic drainage on the cheeks and neck, but the eyes can benefit from a little drainage too. I often do this for clients ahead of big events, using circular motions with my fingers, working outwards. You don’t need to go heavy, a gentle pressure will make a big difference. I also recommend using a product – concealer, eye cream, anything you like – that contains caffeine. Though it won’t get rid of it entirely, it does temporarily reduce puffiness.
A luminous primer can work wonders. I swear by Armani’s Luminous Silk Hydrating Primer. Using this alone can give you a beautiful, natural glow that doesn’t always require foundation. I often pair this with a liquid highlighter – focusing application of the latter on the outer parts of the face. Taking this approach means the light hits it perfectly, creating a multidimensional luminosity that lifts and enhances your features.
One J-beauty practice to try is powder exfoliation. Rather than using harsh exfoliants and endless acids, Japanese skincare methods focus on gentler exfoliators such as rice brand powder and enzyme-based exfoliators. It’s something I still stick to in my own routine. A milder approach like this still removes dead skin cells and brightens dullness, but without causing irritation. It works for everyone, and skin feels so soft and supple afterwards – Tatcha’s Rice Polish is brilliant.
Underpainting is key for a natural look. I often recommend highlighting and contouring your skin first, then layering a little foundation on top. This diffuses the products more, allowing them to blend nicely, but also breathe through in a more natural way. When contouring, I recommend using a concealer – I often find it’s easier to work with than ‘traditional’ contouring creams and powders. Apply a darker concealer to the hollows of your cheeks and the temple area underneath your jaw. Next, use a concealer in a shade or two lighter than your skin tone to highlight and lift. Place the latter under and at the outer corner of your eyes, as well as under the brow bone and onto the highest points of your cheeks. A little beside the mouth and nose helps too.
Glossy lips are going to be a big thing this season. Think pouty and full in a 90s colour palette – you heard it here first. You can replicate this trend easily to suit you. Frame lips using a deeper shade of your choice, then apply a glass-like gloss on the centre of the lips, like Saie’s Hydrating Lip Oils or Armani’s Prisma Glass Glosses. This placement helps to cheat the illusion of fullness – it also prevents too much layering and the risk of things turning gloopy.
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