12 Brow Rules From An Expert

Kallinika Aynsley is a go-to brow expert for A-listers and beauty insiders alike. One of the best in the business, she knows all the tricks for creating well-groomed arches that lift and shape your face naturally. From the downsides of threading to the importance of castor oil, this is her essential advice…
By Rebecca Hull /

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01

Be Careful With Pencil

“A lot can go wrong with brows, but the worst – and most common – issue for me is being haphazard with a brow pencil. I see people draw it on like a sharpie, creating a big, bold square front. Often the colour is far too dark as well. If you’re unsure on how your brows should look day to day, try a semi-permanent treatment. This gives you a base shape for your brow pencil to adhere to. It also helps to leave the front soft and natural, so you only need to build up on the arch and tail – if at all.”

02

Use Brow Gels 

“Everyone should own a good, tinted brow gel that sets hairs into place. I recommend YSL’s Couture Brow but you have to use it carefully as it’s very pigmented. Just a little will give a fluffy effect and set the brows in place for the whole day. I also recommend keeping a clean spoolie in your handbag at all times. Using it to brush your brows up throughout the day will keep them uniform and less wayward.”

03

Stock Up On Castor Oil

“For those without semi-permanent brows, I’d recommend castor oil. Apply it overnight and sleep with it on like a mask – it doesn’t need to be fancy or expensive, just a hydrating one that promises moisture. It will work well to keep the brows nourished and healthy, and therefore more manageable and fluffy too.”

04

Put Your Tweezers Down

“If you have natural brows, don’t tweeze them yourself. It’s important you leave it to the professionals. When I carry out brow grooming treatments, I always measure and work out the ratios for your face shape and bone structure which is something you won’t be able to do yourself at home. As a result, you won’t be able to create the best shape to flatter your features.”

05

Go For Waxing 

“I have always believed threading snaps off the hair just below the surface, whereas waxing pulls the hair out from the root. It’s why you’ll find after threading your brows grow back much quicker than with waxing. As mentioned already, tweezers should be left to the pros. Only use them for pesky stragglers that grow between your brows – unless you have a semi-permanent shape to guide you.”

06

Keep It Light

“Avoid pomades and creams – opt for pencils and gels instead. Create small flicks using a fine pencil and go over this with a tinted gel to set things in place. A favourite of mine is the Refy Brow Pencil  by Jess Hunt. It has a tiny nib, allowing you to create ultra-fine strokes that blend seamlessly. Less is always more with your brows.”

07

Know Your Options 

“Products aside, there are so many great treatments available now that give long-lasting results. I currently offer the ‘Sophisticated Brow’ – which is great for normal or dry skin types – and the ‘Hyperrealism Brow’. Both have been hugely popular with a rise in clients wanting a fluffy, texturised, runway brow. They are great options for those who suffer with a lack of growth, and the semi-permanent results last for years. Both treatments create a whirlwind fluffy brow that appears realistic and almost HD in quality. Whichever you choose, the results can be kept groomed or you can have an unkempt finish – either way, the work goes totally undetected.”

08

Always Keep Brows Tidy

“This is especially true if you have had a semi-permanent brow treatment. As you will have been given the perfect shape that’s been tailored to suit your individual face, it’s important you keep them groomed and conditioned. Plus, it’s easier to follow the shape, plucking strays away only where it’s needed – you can’t go wrong when you’ve been given an outline.”

09

Stay Out Of The Sun

“The sun can be so damaging to your brows. My biggest tip is to keep them protected – whether you have semi-permanent brows or not. If you have had a treatment done, make sure any product you use as protection is oil free. This is because oils oxidise pigment and cause premature fading. As for natural brows, hairs tend to shed faster when exposed to the sun, and certainly when burnt, so don’t forget to apply your SPF here. Vaseline or any transparent balm acts as a great barrier, too. My holiday hack is a good henna stain – it works for everyone, but especially those with a strong arch which simply needs some enhancement.”

10

Try Growth Enhancers

“I swear by Scandinavian Biolabs Hair Growth Serum. It has a heap of fantastic ingredients plus its own unique hair growth formulation, and it genuinely works. I use it every single day followed by a microneedle roller on my brows – I microneedle once a week. Yes, brows are left a little red and tingly, but I promise you, the results speak for themselves. I recommend it to all my clients and friends.”

11

Look Out For Peach Fuzz

“The brow industry has developed a lot over the years. Before, we were told not to touch the top of our brows because fine peach fuzz would grow back thicker, but this is a myth. Anyway there is the option of dermaplaning now which gets rid of any unwanted fuzz easily. For those who have semi-permanent treatments, I recommend using a small brow razor to tidy up the fuzz at the top and bottom of your brows. You can then tweeze out any thicker hairs. For natural brows, only remove hair from the bottom, not the top. This is more to do with you damaging the shape than anything else.”

12

Spend Time Researching

“Before you have any treatment – semi-permanent or not – do your research. It is such a shame that I see so many botched clients. Look for reviews, check out Instagram ‘before and afters’ and go with a strong recommendation – particularly for semi-permanent brows. Never choose the cheaper option for a treatment on your face as you get what you pay for. I have had a lot of clients that have ended up having to have removal before I can create what they are really after.”

Book in with Kallinika for brow treatments at DryBy in central London or the Berkeley hotel In Knightsbridge. Head To KallinikaAynsley.co.uk for more information.

Kallinika is also available for private appointments via direct message on Instagram.

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