5 Ingredients A Skincare Expert Really Rates

Hyaluronic acid gets most of the attention but let's not overlook glycerin – one of the hardest-working and least glamorous ingredients. Both are humectants, meaning they attract and bind water to the skin to keep it hydrated and plump. But glycerin is particularly brilliant because it also supports the skin barrier. Come autumn, I'd look for both in a serum formula and follow up with a moisturiser to stop the hydration escaping.

Think of your skin cells as bricks and ceramides as part of the mortar holding everything together. These naturally occurring lipids make up roughly 50% of the skin barrier's intercellular lipids, and they're essential for keeping moisture in and irritants out. When ceramide levels or their organisation are disrupted, skin can become drier, tighter and more reactive. I particularly like ceramide-rich skincare in autumn because it's about reinforcing the protective barrier, rather than simply adding another layer of hydration.

One of the more interesting ingredients in modern skincare, ectoin is a molecule produced by certain microorganisms to help them survive extreme environmental conditions. In skincare, it's valued for its water-binding and protective properties, with emerging evidence supporting its ability to improve hydration and protect the skin barrier against environmental stress. I particularly like it for now because we're constantly moving between cold outdoor air and dry, centrally heated rooms. Think of it as an extra layer of support for skin that's having to adapt to changing conditions.