A Beginner’s Guide To Gua Sha

Why Gua Sha Is So Popular

Twenty-first-century gua sha may well be all over your Instagram feed but in many ways, it’s actually worlds apart from its ancient counterpart. Rooted in Traditional Chinese Medicine, the technique – now hugely popular among A-list facialists and wellness experts – was originally performed on the body (rather than the face) using coins, spoons, even animal bones, to vigorously and repeatedly scrape the surface to release toxins. “Literally, gua sha means ‘to scrape away fever’, so think of it as a tool that brings inflammation to the skin’s surface so the pain or illness can be dispelled,” explains facialist Su-Man Hsu. Fast-forward to 2025, an evolved version of the practice has built a cult following among skincare fans. The modern format uses a much lighter touch and generally involves scraping a smooth-edged tool along oiled facial skin, resulting in a renewed, glowy effect. 

The Key Benefits, Explained

According to experts, gua sha offers a whole host of potential benefits. Not only can it be used to effectively depuff and help you appear more sculpted, it also boosts blood circulation, thereby oxygenating the skin. “It’s not as simple as using a jade roller – the technique is more specific so you can improve blood flow and make sure your complexion receives adequate nutrients,” explains Su-Man. “Overworking a particular area will bring fresh blood carrying oxygen and nutrients to the tissue that might have previously been deprived. The blood then carries away any build-up of toxins, like lactic acid, which in turn restores radiance and glow. It’s also been known to reduce headaches and jaw pain when done correctly.”

Five Foolproof Ways To Make The Most Of Your Gua Sha…

“When you use your gua sha, work on the fascia. This is the sheet of connective tissue (primarily made up of collagen) beneath the skin that attaches, stabilises and separates the muscles. Take it over your key pressure points to release tension and tightness. Use long, circular strokes, working from the inner to the outer areas of your face in upward motions. The only exception is your neck. When using your tool here, activate the skin by stroking in downwards movements to avoid creating flaccid skin.” – Su-Man

“Always open your lymphatic system first, then work from the centre of your facial contours outwards towards your hairline. Gua sha is designed to drain unwanted toxins from the face to the lymph drainage nodes, so use long sweeping motions with a firm hold but light pressure. Each movement should finish on the outer side of the neck, behind the ear and around the clavicle bone. This process can be repeated daily for best results, either in the morning or evening.” – Michaella Bolder, facialist 

“To reap the best results, you need to invest in the right kind of tool. Pay attention to its smoothness and shape. Ignore the hype around other benefits and claims – it’s pure marketing. For instance, the type of crystal it’s made from doesn’t matter. You want one that has a thick, smooth texture for great results – this style is easier for beginners to use, too.” – Su-Man

“If de-puffing is your goal, ensure your gua sha tool is as cold as possible before you use it. Store it in the fridge in a clean food bag for hygiene. Morning is the best time to use it cold as, first thing, our skin can be plagued with all sorts of inflammation. Start by doing a quick cleanse, using vigorous massage movements as you go to wake up the facial muscles and stimulate blood flow. Try using your gua sha with a skincare product that has enough slip to it – this can be a cleanser, moisturiser or facial oil, but not a serum as they tend to absorb too quickly. Keep it angled slightly as you move it around your skin so the tool is almost lying flat on the face. This technique, combined with the coolness, will take down any unwanted inflammation.” – Michaella

“People are often afraid of causing damage to the skin’s tissue. To get it right, you need to take an approach known as a ‘working hand and a holding hand’. Don’t be afraid to repeat the movements in upward strokes – especially around the eyes and cheeks – towards the lymphatic glands, to stimulate circulation and drainage.” – Su-Man

“The gua sha technique works best when it’s done properly and consistently over time. You won’t see results overnight but in the long run you’ll notice the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles improves, and you’ll be able to see more definition in the contours of your face. Furthermore, scraping will help eliminate the toxins from your body, thus encouraging faster healing of the skin.” – Su-Man 

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