Why This Ingredient Could Give You Your Best Skin Yet

What Is It?

PDRN is fast becoming one of skincare’s most talked-about ingredients but the science behind it has been around for years. “PDRN stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide. These are short DNA fragments traditionally and most often derived from salmon,” explains Dr Christine Hall, aesthetic doctor & K-beauty expert. “It has existed for years in Korea and is sold in Korean pharmacies for healing and compromised skin, and we are now seeing more PDRN appearing in skincare in the West in the form of serums, creams and masks.”

“Polynucleotides are the injectable form which have been around for much longer and have more evidence behind them. Polynucleotides are also DNA fragments which have slightly longer chains and were originally used in regenerative medicine, particularly for wound healing, burns and tissue repair. It was in 2014 that Korea launched the first injectable treatment designed for aesthetic medicine called Rejuran.”

How Does It Work?

“When injected, polynucleotides can reach the deeper layers of the skin and stimulate fibroblasts, which are the cells involved in producing collagen, as well as supporting the skin’s repair processes. Topically, it is a bit different. PDRN is quite a large molecule, so it is unlikely to penetrate the skin deeply enough to have the same effect as injected PDRN. What it can do is help to hydrate and soothe the skin, reduce inflammation and support the skin while it is repairing itself. So I would not expect a PDRN serum to stimulate collagen in the same way that an injectable treatment can. The effects are much more surface level.” – Christine 

How Does It Compare To Injectable Treatments?

“Injectable PDRN, often referred to as a polynucleotide treatment or skin booster, is injected directly into the skin. That means it can get much closer to the cells and structures where it is able to have its regenerative effects. This is also where we have more of the clinical research. With a serum or cream, PDRN has to get through the skin barrier and the molecule is simply too large to penetrate very deeply. So you are not going to get the same result from a topical product as you would from an injectable. That said, topical PDRN can still be useful. Think of it more as something that can help keep the skin hydrated, calm and supported, rather than something that is going to produce the same kind of structural changes you might see from an injectable treatment.” – Christine 

What Are The Benefits?

“Topical PDRN gives your skin that immediate surge of hydration, visibly plumping up expression lines and leaving you with a smooth, radiant glow. Beyond that quick refresh, it works beneath the surface to strengthen your barrier and support natural collagen, helping firm things up. If your skin is feeling a bit dull, dehydrated, or starting to show expression lines at rest and uneven texture, PDRN is great to add to your routine. The best part? Topical formulas are super gentle and safe for pretty much every skin type. Just keep in mind that while it won’t give you the instant, dramatic volume bump of an in-clinic injectable, it builds up beautiful, healthy results over time as you stick with it.” – Sophie Anne Perry, facialist 

What Are The Different Types?

“Traditional PDRN is usually derived from salmon and that is the form that has been studied the most, interestingly the DNA of a salmon is also very structurally close to that of a human. If you have a fish allergy, are vegan or vegetarian, or simply prefer not to use animal-derived ingredients, you may want to look for an alternative. There are now plant-based and vegan versions available, which are designed to offer similar benefits. The research around these is newer, so there’s not enough evidence to say these perform exactly the same as salmon-derived PDRN.” – Christine 

What’s Worth Paying Attention To?

“When choosing a PDRN product, pay attention to the formula’s molecular size and its supporting ingredients. Opt for micro-sized or bio-fermented PDRN, which is specifically engineered to sink right into the skin rather than sitting on top. It works even better when paired with heavy-hitting complementary actives, like hyaluronic acid to pull hydration deep into the skin, alongside niacinamide to help even out skin tone and boost firmness.” – Sophie

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