3 Alternative US City Breaks For 2024
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PITTSBURGH
What To See & Do
Pittsburgh has an array of museums to grace a much bigger city. Andy Warhol was born and raised here, only moving to New York when he was 21. Across seven floors, the Andy Warhol Museum draws on the world’s largest collection of his art and archival materials to tell the full story of his rise from sickly child to commercial artist and, finally, pop art icon. It all adds up to a compelling portrait not just of a man, but of 20th-century America at large. The museum celebrates its 30th anniversary this year – so keep an eye on its website for some special events.
The Carnegie Museum of Natural History takes visitors even further back in time. The stars of its show are dinosaurs – if you ever saw ‘Dippy’ at London’s Natural History Museum, that was a plaster cast of the actual bones you can see here. In the shadow of these hulking skeletons, the adjoining Carnegie Museum of Art more than repays any time you can give it. De Kooning, Kline and Koons are among the big-name Americans on its walls. Then, over in North Side, The Mattress Factory brings you right back up to date – it’s all about contemporary installation art and has permanent pieces by Yayoi Kusama and James Turrell.
Pittsburgh is where ketchup empire Heinz was founded. In the Strip District, the Heinz History Center is great on the city’s social history and gives over a floor to the Western Pennsylvania Sports Museum. The museum claims that Pittsburgh produces more sporting superstars than anywhere else. If you’re visiting sports-mad Pittsburgh, you need to get to a game. Depending on the season, you can take your pick from the Steelers (NFL), Pirates (baseball) or Penguins (ice hockey). Whichever match you opt for, don’t forget the obligatory pre-match hot dog – smothered in Heinz, of course.
If you’ve booked more than a two-night stay in the city, we insist you visit Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater, described as “the best all-time work of American architecture” by the American Institute of Architects. A 90-minute drive from Downtown, it was built in the 1930s as a summer home for a local retail magnate. Indoor and outdoor fold into one another, as the building cascades into the waterfall below it. Tucked just below the crest of a hill, there’s another handsome Lloyd Wright home nearby. At stone-walled Kentuck Knob, wide-screen windows bring the outside in, letting wooden surfaces and fixtures harmonise with the woodland all around it. Both these landmark houses sit within the beautiful Laurel Highlands – of which Kentuck Knob has a fine view.
Where To Eat & Drink
Apteka in Lawrenceville is an excellent vegan restaurant that can change minds. Start with a plate of pickles and a vodka shot, then try as much as you can. Pittsburgh’s favourite pierogi dumplings go meat free here, while retaining their richness and depth of flavour; the celeriac schnitzel is similarly satisfying; and the cocktails are as inventive as everything else. Make sure to book ahead. A couple of restaurants in Lawrenceville have also been attracting attention from across America: Morcilla is a Spanish small-plates place that cures its own charcuterie; family run Pusadee’s Garden is a regional Thai spot where they cook over open-fire grills.
Diner culture runs deep in Pittsburgh – ideal for anyone after an all-American experience. Menus are long and usually feature eggs every which way, alongside a host of sweeter options. Look for local twists like the Pittsburgh eggs benedict at Kelly O’s. Family owned J&J’s is the place to know on top of Mount Washington, while Pamela’s got famous on the back of a drop-in by Obama and now serves up its signature hotcakes at a few sites around town. The nostalgic vibes are strong at the homey original in the Strip District.
The Strip District is also where it all began for Primanti Bros, homegrown heroes who have been turning out monumental Italian sandwiches for almost a century. The streets of the Strip are also lined with venerable institutions like the Pennsylvania Macaroni Co. and Enrico Biscotti – two Italian-American emporiums that are as good for rummaging as they are for takeaway picnics and souvenir hunting.
Atop Mount Washington – accessible via the Duquesne Incline – you’ll find Altius, a modern American restaurant with refined takes on Caesar salad and chicken supreme. Further east, there’s a strong food scene in Squirrel Hill. A run of great pizza joints (Napoli’s, Aiello’s and Mineo’s) intersects with Forbes Avenue’s authentic Asian places (Kiin Lao & Thai Eatery, Jian’s Kitchen, Everyday Noodles).
Pittsburgh has a rich musical history – the greats used to pass through on their way to New York or Chicago – and Con Alma, the jazz bar of old Hollywood dreams, is the showcase today’s local talent deserves. Nightly live sets are best enjoyed with something short and strong like a house negroni or the Straight No Chaser (rye whiskey, cognac, bitters).
Where To Stay
Everything runs smoothly at the Fairmont Pittsburgh. It also puts you bang in the middle of the Downtown action – Con Alma is a block away, Mount Washington is a bridge away, and the sports stadiums are all walkable. The Oaklander is in the University district, so the Carnegie museums are close by. Floor-to-ceiling windows in its comfortable corner suites mean there’s no better view of the gothic Cathedral of Learning tower across the road – and you can count on Le Labo in the en-suite. Its sister property, the Industrialist, is a modern Downtown alternative to the Fairmont in a Beaux Arts building that, though empty for decades, has hung onto its external artistic flourishes. A few blocks north, the Kimpton Hotel Monaco occupies a building of similar vintage.
How To Get There
British Airways flies direct from Heathrow to Pittsburgh International, which is a 25-minute/$40 cab ride from Downtown, or there are regular buses that take around 40 minutes. Flight times are about 8 hours, with returns from £515 at the time of writing.
For more information, check out VisitPittsburgh.com. For anything out of town, GoLaurelHighlands.com is the best place to start.
UNSPLASH/ ACTIONVANCE GUY
PHILADELPHIA
What To See & Do
Lonely Planet and Time Out have both named Philadelphia as one of the best places to visit in 2024 – and having been there last year, we agree. Philly is the first and only Unesco World Heritage City in the States: after all, it’s where American democracy was dreamt up and signed into life by the Founding Fathers. Their spirit endures in the Liberty Bell, which is free to visit in a small dedicated museum close to Independence Hall and the city’s other most historic sites. The steps up to the Philadelphia Museum of Art are the only thing in the city that might be more iconic than the bell. That’s because they’re the steps where Sylvester Stallone finishes his iconic training run in Rocky II. Head into the museum itself and you’ll find works by some of the biggest names in European and American art (Picasso, Dali, Cy Twombly, Jasper Johns) as well as new Frank Gehry-designed galleries. The sculptor Rodin has a museum all of his own and the Barnes Foundation deserves a look if you’re on an art tip.
Behind the façade of great art and history, Philly is a sports town at heart. Clustered at the bottom end of South Philly, you’ll find the homes of the Eagles, the Phillies, the Flyers and 76ers. Elsewhere, Eastern State Penitentiary is a remarkable place to spend a couple of hours. Take the audio tour led by Steve Buscemi to find out what made it such an infamous facility that even Charles Dickens (fresh off the boat from Dickensian London) was shocked by the conditions within. If you’ve ever visited Alcatraz, this is just as fascinating.
If you need souvenirs or you’re in the mood for a spot of shopping, South Street and its surrounding Queen Village neighbourhood is loaded with cool boutiques – Totem and Ps & Qs are good for American and hyperlocal brands. In Chinatown, Little House Shop is great for interior finds, institution Joan Shepp is the place for designer brands, Millésimé is a stunning furniture store; and Boyds is a striking department store that will help you get that Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s feeling.
Where To Eat & Drink
Downtown has its share of Philly’s finest restaurants. Friday Saturday Sunday and Vernick Food & Drink are right in the vanguard of new American cuisine, or there’s Vetri Cucina for Italian. There are fun and unique experiences to be had at more everyday prices too. Laidback Zahav is the place for Israeli – don’t miss the pomegranate lamb shoulder. The family run Oyster House has mastered East Coast seafood – at least swing in for a cocktail and half a dozen Atlantics up at the raw bar. Cristina Martinez has made it onto Chef’s Table for her work with tacos at South Philly Barbacoa.
Keen to try an authentic Philly cheesesteak? The best can be found at Pat’s or Geno’s, right next to each other, or get serious and join the locals heading north to Dalessandro’s. If you’re staying in Center City, you can always offset any indulgence with something healthy from Reading Terminal Market – or double down on the meat with a roast pork sandwich from Tommy DiNic’s. Philly’s strong Italian influence also shows itself in the flawless cannoli from the Termini Bros counter.
On the drinks front, you can’t go to Philly and not try one of its elite dive bars: Oscar’s Tavern (cash only) and Ray’s Happy Birthday Bar will hit the spot. On top of everything else, Philly’s also a jazz city and you’ll find easy-going live music at Bob & Barbara’s. For full dinner shows, Chris’ Jazz Café is the centre of the scene, but check the listings at Time and South Jazz Kitchen too.
Where To Stay
Philly doesn’t have a Soho House, perhaps because it’s got a home-grown alternative. The Fitler Club offers 14 smart rooms to non-members. Book in and you’ll get the run of its members’ facilities – as well as a huge gym and spa, there’s a bowling alley and cinema. The Four Seasons is the place if you’re going all out. Norman Foster’s starchitect design leads with a glass elevator taking you up to the 60th-floor lobby. Beyond that you’ll find wild views, food options to match and an infinity-edge pool with panoramic views of its own. Other decent options around Center City include the storied Rittenhouse (great bar and spa), the newer Kimpton Palomar, or the Deacon if you’re a decent-sized group looking for some exclusive use. We also love the look of the two Lokal ‘invisible service’ luxury apart-hotels, one in Old City and the other in cool neighbourhood Fishtown, which blend covetable modernist furnishings with full kitchens and dining areas.
How To Get There
British Airways and American Airlines fly direct from Heathrow to Philadelphia International, which is a 20-minute/$35 cab ride from Center City or there are regular trains and buses. Flight times are around 8 hours, with returns from £351 at the time of writing.
For more information, check out VisitPhilly.com
HUDSON VALLEY
What To See & Do
There’s a reason well-heeled New Yorkers head upstate when they need some R&R. Renowned for its historic landmarks, striking Queen Anne-style houses, national parks and exclusive retreats, Hudson Valley stretches 150 miles north of Manhattan. Just a two-hour journey from NYC by car or Amtrak, this is the place to explore if you’re craving a refined take on an outdoorsy getaway.
Hudson Valley is a National Heritage Area and is filled with national parks and scenery that, come autumn, can rival that of its more northerly neighbour New England. Two of the best spots to explore include Minnewaska State Park and Olana State Park. In Ulster County, the former surrounds the dramatic Shawangunk Mountain ridge, which rises more than 2,000 feet above sea level and is surrounded by rugged, rocky terrain. Park highlights include waterfalls, crystalline sky lakes, dense hardwood forests, sheer cliffs opening to beautiful views and clear streams cut into valleys. There are 35 miles of roads and 50 miles of footpaths to take in all the above.
Olana’s 250-acre landscape is free to enter and open every day from 8am to sunset. A designed landscape created by famed painter Frederic Church, within his former estate you’ll find the Hudson River Skywalk, a scenic six-mile round trip walkway with sweeping views of the valley and the Catskill Mountains. Another must-see area to explore is the Forever Wild Catskill Park, which is home to the oldest continuous settlement in the USA. Over in Ghent, you’ll find Omi Sculpture Park. The 120-acre arts centre focuses on contemporary artists and architects, with a range of large-scale installations and rotating pieces.
Alongside a booming wine culture (Hudson Valley was the first wine-producing region in the United States) and an abundance of nature, the area is also loved for its hundreds of antiques shops. In the city of Hudson itself, some of these include the piled-high Red Chair On Warren and mid-century modern haven Neven & Neven. And then there’s Finch, which is worth the visit in its own right. A high-end homeware store from Andrew Arrick, who’s worked at design houses such as Yves Saint Laurent, Celine, Carolina Herrera and Vera Wang, Finch is a treasure trove of good design. If you’re visiting from the UK, you won’t be able to squeeze an armchair or trunk in your suitcase, but there are multitudes of objets to remind you of your time in the wilderness.
Where To Eat & Drink
Hudson Valley is renowned as a pioneer in the farm-to-table movement. Innes and Wildflower Farms Auberge are leading the forefront (more on those later), but visitors are spoilt for choice when it comes to booking a table. Home to The Culinary Institute of America, where many of the country’s top chefs hone their skills, both Michelin-starred and Bib Gourmand restaurants aren’t hard to come by. One of them is Silvia in Woodstock. The family-owned restaurant focuses on back-to-basics cooking that’s still refined and on the drinks list, small producers and natural winemakers – most organic and biodynamic – take centre stage.
In Hudson, you’ll find Feast & Floret. Here, the focus in on perfect pasta – think squid ink soprese with squid, nduja and spinach; or pappardelle with duck ragu, caper leaves and 24-month aged parmesan reggiano. Red Dot has been a draw on Main Street since 1999. If you’re after a hearty brunch, USA classics such as ribs or the best burger in town, this is the place to book. Café Mutton is a cutesy coffee shop and lunch spot, which opens for dinner on Friday evenings. An inventive menu includes everything from crepes to lamb head porridge with a poached egg and fried bologna sandwiches.
The Maker is a Hudson hotel where eclectic design and comfort blend seamlessly. It also has a great restaurant in a soaring conservatory filled with plants. Pulling inspiration from his Italian heritage and the produce of the Hudson Valley, chef Alex Napolitano’s menu is guided by the seasons. Over in Tivoli, GioBatta Alimentari is another stellar Italian restaurant, which has the bonus of a well-stocked deli filled with delicacies to make the ultimate grab-and-go lunch. Another food-focused stop-off is Talbot & Ardin, a Hudson mainstay that was founded by a celebrated cheesemonger and renowned chef in 2014. Its pressed-to-order filled focaccia sandwiches are epic enough to encourage even the most reluctant hikers to head up into the valley for a picnic.
Where To Stay
It doesn’t get better than Wildflower Farms Auberge in Gardiner. Surrounded by 140 acres of meadows and woodland, the property looks towards the Shawangunk Ridge and makes the most of its setting thanks to its clusters of freestanding cabins or cottages. With floor-to-ceiling windows and private patios – some with hot tubs – each lodge gives guests their own slice of the scenery. What’s inside is just as impressive. The interiors and furnishings look like Soho House on steroids – think gorgeous plush sofas at the end of beds, statement lighting and sculptural armchairs angled towards those views – alongside modern takes on American quilts and locally made toiletries. Elsewhere, there’s a spa, outdoor pool, farm-to-fork restaurant Clay and our favourite space, The Porch, where sofas and chairs flank a giant firepit. With miles of trails on the estate, you’ll be forgiven if you never leave the farm during your stay.
Another luxe resort is Inness, which is home to a hotel, restaurant, member’s club, golf course, tennis courts, spa and saltwater pools. Guests can choose to sleep in the Dutch-style farmhouse or one of the 28 minimalist cabins. But even if you’re not staying at Inness, we strongly suggest booking at table at its restaurant. Lime-washed walls, vintage chairs from a Belgian church and floor-to-ceiling windows set the scene for a showstopping meal inspired by the Mediterranean – think wild bass with fennel, smoked trout roe and chilli oil or ricotta ravioli with crab, brown butter, peas and lemon.
In Kingston you’ll find Hutton Brickyards, a 43-room riverside escape with waterfront views. Guests can choose to sleep in the riverfront cabins or restored hilltop Second Empire historic mansion. There are two seasonal restaurants and bars, massage treatments available in room and hiking trails throughout the 500-acre state park that wraps around the resort’s own 100 acres. Elsewhere, Woodhouse Lodge in Greenville was built in 1962 as a modern escape for city dwellers. The property has since been transformed into a ten-bedroom shaker-meets-mid-century-modern hotel, in the hills of the Catskills. It’s near the North-South Lake, where a day pass gets you access to hiking trails around some striking waterfalls. Make sure you pack your swimming costume: the cooling lake swim on a hot day could well be one of your holiday highlights.
How To Get There
British Airways, American Airlines, Delta and Virgin Atlantic fly direct from Heathrow to New York JFK. From there, you can hire a car and be in Hudson Valley in two hours. Flight times are around 8 hours, with returns from £491 at the time of writing.
For more information, visit TravelHudsonValley.com
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