A Luxury Buyer’s Guide To Dressing Well This Season
Images: @MaisonKrasnova; @Marine_Hums; @NourHammour_Paris; Juju Vera
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A Luxury Buyer’s Guide To Dressing Well This Season

When your job involves buying luxury fashion, you get a pretty good sense of what’s worth your attention. As a womenswear buyer at Printemps, Marine Humeau has her finger on the pulse when it comes to the designers and emerging trends shaping AW26. Here, we asked her what’s on her radar, which pieces are worth investing in and the details that will refresh your wardrobe this season…
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Images: @MaisonKrasnova; @Marine_Hums; @NourHammour_Paris; Juju Vera

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The AW26 Mood

For AW26, there’s a return to femininity, elegance and refinement, with the centenary of Art Deco providing a particularly relevant source of inspiration. Its ornamental details and rich decorative heritage resonate with fashion’s renewed interest in romanticism and ottoman-inspired aesthetics. Texture and craftsmanship are at the heart of this movement, with silk, lace, fur, tassels, pearls and embellishments bringing depth and sophistication to silhouettes. What I find particularly appealing now is how these influences can be translated into everyday dressing. A beautifully cut long coat, sculpted tailoring or a simple outfit elevated with a silk scarf, a statement belt or jewellery can all capture the spirit of the season without feeling overly trend-driven.

The Black Trend

Black is a key colour this season and I’m particularly happy about it. What makes it interesting is the interplay of textures. Silk, lace, wool, leather and fur can add richness and sophistication to an otherwise monochromatic palette. I’ll be embracing the trend by building tonal black looks around contrasting materials and playing with embellishment and accessories, rather than buying an entirely new wardrobe. A black pencil skirt with a chunky knit or tailored wool trousers with a leather jacket, can instantly feel more current with a sculptural silver necklace or statement belt. It’s all about using texture and accessories to bring depth and personality to a monochromatic look.

The Rising Star

Julie Kegels, winner of the 2026 LVMH Prize, is a designer I find particularly exciting right now. Her modern, playful approach to femininity challenges conventional ideas of dressing, combining elements such as sequins, corsetry and sheer skirts in unexpected ways. I love the way her designs embrace the different sides of a woman’s personality, moving between sensuality, humour and sophistication without feeling predictable.

Julie Kegels

The Standout Brand

Prada really stood out to me this season, not only for the collection itself but also for the concept behind the show. Just 15 models walked the runway four times, removing a layer each time to reveal a new look. It reflected the reality of how we get dressed and how our outfits evolve throughout the day. It was a clever way to explore the multifaceted nature of women today, showing how a single wardrobe can reflect different moods, personalities and moments in our lives.

The Investment Pieces

A long coat with strong shoulders or a beautifully crafted shearling are this season’s outerwear heroes. I particularly love the shearling pieces from Envelope1976 – I would wear them over everything from tailoring to denim. Secondly, skirts – in all lengths, shapes and textures. From sheer and embellished styles to more structured silhouettes, they’re a must-have this season. I would style a statement skirt with a simple knit or an oversized jacket to balance out the proportions and make it easier to wear during the day. Finally, I would invest in statement accessories, from vintage brooches and Ottoman-inspired collars to a distinctive pair of shoes. Whether it’s an unexpected toe shape or a textured finish, the right accessory can transform a simple outfit.

The New Footwear

Shoes are a perfect expression of modern femininity: elegant, versatile and capable of changing the whole attitude of a look. I love pieces I can wear on repeat while creating different moods depending on how I style them. Pair them with a midi skirt for a more feminine look or with black wool trousers for something sharper and more understated. I recently bought a pair of zebra-print pony-hair pumps – they instantly add character to monochromatic outfits. For a more tonal, understated alternative, Hagelstam or Loulou de Saison pumps would be my top picks.

The Wardrobe Foundations

I invest in great foundations while always leaving room for personality. For me, outerwear is one of the most valuable purchases you can make. Whether you opt for a long wool coat or a beautiful shearling, it can work over athletic wear in the morning – I love Ernest Leoty’s sporty pieces – with a skirt for meetings during the day or with great denim for dinner in the city. My lifestyle requires that kind of flexibility. I can go from training in the morning to meetings in the afternoon and a moto ride in the evening, so I need pieces that adapt to different moments without compromising on style. Ultimately, I believe a well-rounded wardrobe is less about owning a lot and more about choosing pieces that work hard, feel authentic and can be styled in multiple ways.

Prada; Trine Tuxen; @MaisonKrasnova; A.W.A.K.E. Mode; Juju Vera; LouLou De Saison; @Marine_Hums

The Statements & Staples

For everyday foundations, Loulou de Saison and TOTEME take a refined approach to modern femininity, with pieces that are easy to mix and match. For statement outerwear that can really anchor a look, I would look at Envelope1976 and Nour Hammour. I would then introduce something more directional, such as a signature Julie Kegels design, an embroidered Prada skirt or a distinctive Maison Margiela piece, and finish the looks with pointed-toe or square-toe kitten heels. The idea is to combine timeless foundations with a few distinctive pieces that add character.

The Styling Hack

I love the idea of wearing a silk scarf as a belt over tailored trousers. It’s an unexpected way to introduce colour, print or texture while making an otherwise simple look feel more individual. I would style it with black tailored trousers, a crisp white shirt, a leather jacket and pointed-toe heels. The result feels polished but not overly formal, with the scarf adding a playful, personal twist.

The Must-Have Accessories

Jewellery is a must-have, particularly pieces with strong Ottoman-inspired or romantic influences. Although I don’t wear a lot of jewellery myself, it’s something I’m increasingly drawn to. One of my favourites is Parure, the collaboration between Trine Tuxen and Pirrie Wright. The combination of silver, gold and length offers so many different styling possibilities. I also love Juju Vera, Mosquito, Ravn and Deux Amis’ distinctive designs and heritage-inspired details. Hats are another great way to update a look. I particularly like Maison Krasnova.

The Golden Rule

For me, fashion starts with touch and emotion. A piece can make me feel more confident, energetic, comfortable, powerful or sophisticated. If it speaks to me, it’s very difficult to say no. Of course, reason comes into the equation too. I tend to favour fewer, better-quality pieces that can keep up with the rhythm of my day and that I will want to wear for years to come. Ultimately, beyond the fabric, cut or construction alone, a piece really resonates with me when I can picture myself wearing it – or even becoming a more confident, authentic version of myself in it.

The Professional Advice

Trying new things is the best way to discover what works for you. Sometimes that means stepping outside your comfort zone but that is often where confidence comes from. You learn what makes you feel good by experimenting. For me, it’s about being feminine without compromising my active, on-the-go lifestyle. I want my clothes to keep up with me while still reflecting my personality. A.W.A.K.E. Mode is a great example of a brand that achieves this through unexpected details in everyday pieces. A familiar silhouette with one unexpected twist can feel much more personal than a statement piece that is difficult to style. Styling is a way of expressing on the outside who we are on the inside. It’s not about following trends but about finding your own way to wear them.

Follow @MARINE_HUMS

@NourHammour_Paris
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