The 2023 Fashion Retrospective
BRAND OF THE YEAR:
Miu Miu
For the first time, Miu Miu has taken top spot on Lyst's quarterly ranking of the hottest brands in fashion. Helmed by one of the industry’s most influential women, Miuccia Prada, the Italian fashion house has seen many of its directional pieces go viral this year. We’d even credit it for sparking the big ballet flat comeback of 2023.
Miu Miu
CHANEL
THE UNEXPECTED EVENT:
Chanel Cruise In Manchester
Earlier this month, Chanel hosted its Métiers d’Art show in Manchester, sparking plenty of conversation across the fashion world. Manchester hasn’t traditionally been synonymous with luxury fashion, but Chanel said it wanted to pay homage to the vibrant pop spirit and iconic media scene that continue to thrive in the city today. Through uniform-inspired tailoring, vivid colours and powerful silhouettes, the collection paid homage to British music and blue-collar culture – two things rooted in the north of England.
THE STYLE MUSES:
Camila Morrone & Jodie Turner-Smith
Following her performance in Daisy Jones & The Six, Camila Morrone emerged as one of the major style muses of 2023. The standout moment was arguably her debut at the Met Gala, where she wore a stunning black velvet Rodarte dress with an oversized white lace collar. Morrone's effortless elegance and laid-back style have left us eagerly anticipating her fashion choices in 2024. A special mention also goes to Jodie Turner-Smith who wowed us all with her unforgettable red carpet looks this year.
PIOVANOTTO MARCO/ABACA/SHUTTERSTOCK; @CAMILLAMORRONE
THE COLLECTION:
Phoebe Philo
Phoebe Philo’s hotly-anticipated, eponymous collection finally launched this year. Six years after stepping down from her role at Céline, the British designer launched PheobePhilo.com offering a full range of ready-to-wear and accessories. Embodying the quiet luxury hallmarks she’s known for, the limited collections include everything from minimalist knits, sleek coats and a timeless palette – plus, pieces with a more directional edge like seriously sharp shoulders, fringed trousers and candy floss coats. Despite the eye watering price tags, each new drop is proving to be the instant hit we knew it would be.
PHOEBE PHILO
THE CAMPAIGN:
Gucci
In October, Gucci’s luggage ad broke the internet. The video and ad campaign is set in an airport terminal, featuring Kendall and then-boyfriend Bad Bunny in Gucci ensembles carrying Gucci luggage. We loved Kendall’s oversized coat, miniskirt, loafer and knit combo.
THE COLLAB:
Wales Bonner x Adidas
Any sneakerhead will know all about Grace Wales Bonner’s collabs with adidas. The two have now launched an entire collection, including four new Samba colourways including maroon, yellow and leopard print. Fashion pieces include tracksuit-style jackets, logo tees and football-style stripy tops.
WALES BONNER X ADIDAS
GUCCI
@margotrobbieofficial
THE STYLISTS:
Andrew Mukamal & Law Roach
This year’s press tour for Greta Gerwig’s Barbie proved nothing short of epic. Margot Robbie paid stunning homage to the film – and Mattel’s history – by donning a series of doll-inspired looks meticulously curated by her stylist Andrew Mukamal. The predominant theme, naturally, was pink, with Robbie nailing statement looks from Valentino, Prada and vintage Chanel. Another big moment was when self-proclaimed ‘image architect’ Law Roach publicly stepped back from celebrity styling. Known for crafting looks for Zendaya, Jessie J and Ariana Grande, Roach explained in an interview with The Cut that the industry’s underlying racism and nepotism drove his decision.
@luxurylaw; @margotrobbieofficial
THE RISING STAR:
Taylor Russell
Canadian actress Taylor Russell shot to fame off the back of roles in the 2018 Netflix series Lost in Space and 2022’s romantic horror film Bones and All. In the past year she’s also made her mark on the fashion scene with multiple red carpet and fashion show appearances – she even opened Loewe’s SS23 show and featured in campaigns for Chanel and Prada.
THE UNEXPECTED EXITS:
Sarah Burton & Matthew Williams
This was a year marked by poignant fashion farewells. Naomi Campbell concluded Sarah Burton’s illustrious 26-year tenure at Alexander McQueen by walking in the SS24 show – at the end of which Burton received a standing ovation. Meanwhile, Matthew Williams stepped down as creative director of Givenchy after three years. Williams, who started his fashion career designing for Kanye West and Lady Gaga, took over in 2020 and quickly modernised the heritage brand. His last collection will be for pre-fall 2024.
PIXELFORMULA/SIPA/SHUTTERSTOCK
David Sims
THE UNEXPECTED MUSES:
Maggie Smith, Mary Berry & Brian Cox
As the industry pushes itself to be more diverse, the issue of age inclusivity continues to be broached by designer brands such as Loewe, Burberry and even Kith. Loewe shot Maggie Smith in a faux fur coat and its signature puzzle bag, while Mary Berry posed in a local ‘caff’ during London Fashion Week, kitted out in Burberry by Daniel Lee. Finally, Brian Cox’s debut in streetwear brand Kith’s fall 2023 campaign featured the brand’s Maclay leather jacket, shearling Coaches jacket and Wyona full-zip varsity sweater.
KITH; BURBERRY; LOEWE
MODEL OF THE YEAR:
Paloma Elsesser
Paloma Elsesser is an American model celebrated for her body positivity and inclusivity advocacy work. Having been featured across British, German and Mexican Vogue, as well as on many luxury fashion catwalks, Paloma has established herself as a major force when it comes to challenging traditional beauty standards. She continues to use her platform to redefine beauty norms, making her a highly influential figure to watch next year.
THE MVP:
Sofia Richie
Sofia Richie has been *the* viral style star of the year. From making make-up products sell out in seconds to kickstarting the quiet luxury movement, Sofia has been through a bit of a style transformation. Previously known for her carefree, party-chic style, the 25-year-old now kits her capsule out with brands like The Row, Chanel and Bottega Veneta. Plus, she had one of the most highly eyeballed weddings of the year, wearing three custom Chanel looks. Stay tuned for more on TikTok in 2024.
@sophiarichiegrainge
THE DETAIL:
Bows
Bows are always an SL favourite and this year they were everywhere. A Harris Reed signature, the designer continued to imbue big bow energy into Nina Ricci's latest collections, where he serves as creative director. Reed’s collections set the tone for the brand’s comeback this year, with unabashed femininity at the core. Elsewhere, Valentino applied bows to dresses and accessories brand Mach & Mach offered up the bow-detail party shoe of the season. Finally, Priyanka Chopra, Rosie Huntington-Whitely and Lily Aldridge all opted for statement bows on the red carpet – giving them the A-lister seal of approval.
@rosiehw; @limeligtnova; @HELSASTUDIO VIA REVOLVE; NINA RICCI; ALEXANDRA MCQUEEN; MACH & MACH
THE COLOUR:
Red
Red has undoubtedly been the dominant colour of the season, with designers like David Koma, Gucci, Fendi and Eudon Choi all using the powerful shade to add impact to everything from suiting to knits, dresses to accessories. Valentino even presented a show at this year’s Fashion Awards, where Mr Garavani was honoured with the Outstanding Achievement trophy. Spanning looks from across the decades, everything was in the house shade Rossa Valentino. From a simple stripe on the adidas Gazelles to full-on tonal looks (as seen on influencer @ClaireRose), pretty much everyone's found a way to dip a toe into the trend.
MAGDA BUTRYM: @FISUNKA; ISABEL MARANT; @CLAIREROSE
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