One-Pan Puttanesca

Put the raisins and capers in a small bowl, cover with boiling water and set aside to soak. Heat the oil in a large frying pan (one with a lid) and add the onion and lardons, if using. Cook gently for a full 7-10 minutes, till golden and caramelised. Crush the anchovies and garlic – you can put them both through a garlic crusher, anchovies first – and add to the pan with the tomato purée and oregano. Season to taste with the sugar, chilli flakes and salt and pepper and cook for 1-2 minutes.

Stir in the tomatoes, water and spaghetti (snapping it if necessary to fit in the pan) and bring to the boil. Cover the pan and simmer for the time suggested on the spaghetti packet – typically 8-12 minutes – stirring occasionally to ensure the pasta is immersed in the sauce. If towards the end of the time the mixture is looking wet, remove the lid to thicken slightly. Check the spaghetti is al dente – cooked by this method, it may need 2-3 minutes extra – then stir in the drained raisins and capers, plus the olives and parsley if using, to heat through. Check the seasoning – again be generous – serve with lots of grated parmesan and add a scattering of pine nuts and chopped parsley, if you wish.