Spicy Noodle Soup
Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions, drain well, rinse thoroughly with cold water, and drain again. Toss with the 1 tsp of oil and keep ready.
Put the stock, garlic, ginger, seaweed if using, and the chilli (fresh or dried) into a large pan. Add the lime leaves or lemongrass if you have either. Bring to a simmer, then add the carrot, and kohlrabi or daikon if using, and return to a simmer. Cook for a minute then add the spring onions, and sliced pak choi if using. Bring back to a simmer and cook for a minute to just soften the pak choi stems.
If using spinach, add the leaves at this point, to wilt. You can leave the soup as it is or stir in one of the extras below, prepped while the soup is cooking.
Give the extras a minute or so to heat through, then take off the heat. Stir in the tamari/soy, lime or lemon juice, sugar and some salt and pepper. Transfer a ladleful of the broth to a small bowl and taste – it should be hot, sour and aromatic. Add more chilli, tamari/soy, salt and/or lime or lemon juice to taste, as needed.
Divide the noodles between warmed soup bowls and ladle over the hot soup. Serve at once with chopsticks and/or spoons.
Extras
Meat: Scraps of chicken, pork or beef can be dropped straight in, or crisped in a frying pan first – in which case seasoning them with a little chopped garlic and chilli, and a pinch of salt, will add to their impact.
Fish: Add flakes of cooked fish, or small slices of raw fish that will cook through in just a minute or two. You can use fish stock (as above) if you’re going to add fish, but it’s not vital.
Eggs: Make a simple thin two-egg omelette, seasoned with pepper or a pinch of dried chilli flakes and a dash of soy sauce. Cook until firm, leave to cool then cut into 1–2cm strips.
Tofu: Cut 100g tofu into small cubes and fry until golden and crisp. Finish with toasted sesame seeds and a trickle of toasted sesame oil.
Variation
Spicy coconut noodle soup: Just replace 400ml of the stock with a 400ml tin of coconut milk. Add any of the above extras and finish with extra lemon or lime juice to cut the richness.
River Cottage Good Comfort by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Published by Bloomsbury on 15 September 2022 (£27.00 RRP, Hardback)
Photography © Simon Wheeler
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