A Veggie Chef Shares Her Cooking Philosophy & 3 New Recipes
Stay For Supper is a collection of dishes I’ve cooked at home and at supper clubs – recipes that have genuinely shaped my cooking life so far. I’ve always loved writing, so putting this together felt like such a natural and exciting process. Having all these recipes and ideas down in one place felt like a bit of a milestone for me. Not just because it’s a book, but because it marks the end of the first chapter in what I hope will be a long journey in food.
The whole idea of ‘laidback vegetarian’ came from how I like to cook day-to-day. I’m very conscious that people are often short on time or energy, especially during the week. I wanted these recipes to feel approachable but still exciting – dishes that don’t demand hours in the kitchen but still feel worth gathering around. I mainly cook vegetarian because I think vegetables deserve more of the spotlight. They’re so versatile and full of flavour, and I wanted to celebrate that in a way that felt inclusive and unfussy.
There’s a theme of hosting that runs through the book too. But when I say hosting, I don’t mean linen napkins and five courses – I mean inviting someone round for pasta and a glass of wine or putting something nice on toast and calling it dinner. Hosting doesn’t have to be big or intimidating. It can just be two of you, or 20 guests.
People seem to be becoming more open to eating less meat, which is amazing – not just for the planet, but because it opens up a whole world of delicious, veg-focused cooking. I want the book to prove that you’re not missing out by going meat-free. If anything, it’s a chance to get creative. I know that confidence is often a barrier, so I’ve tried to make the recipes as easy as possible, with little tips on flavour and styling that make a big difference.
Some of the dishes in Stay For Supper have become real staples in my life. The baked beans are a firm family favourite – we’ve made them for years – and my friends always request the chocolate mousse. It’s silky, rich, and surprisingly simple. That’s the one dish I’d love everyone to try. It’s become such a go-to in my kitchen that I think of it almost like a signature.
When I’m hosting last-minute, I usually turn to the roasted tomato rigatoni. It’s quick, super comforting and always goes down well. But there are lots of laidback-but-impressive options in the book – like the brown butter apple tarte tatin. It sounds fancy but it’s so easy to pull together. I think anything with brown butter in the name feels impressive, and it’s so simple. For beginners, I’d say start with the caramelised leeks on toast with toasted walnuts and a fried egg.
One of my favourite things to talk about is layering flavour – building things up bit by bit to make a dish sing. For me, it starts with what’s in season and what I can get from my supplier. I also rely on small things that elevate everything: tomato paste is so underrated, herbs add both freshness and beauty and a lemon in the fridge is a total essential.
Toast with anything is my comfort food. There’s a whole section on it because, honestly, I eat so much of it. Some of the recipes feel really personal too. My mum’s braised lentils are the ultimate cosy meal – deep, hearty and full of love.
The book was a group effort. I’m incredibly proud of every detail – from the design, which my husband created, to the beautiful photography by Ola Smit, to the food styling by my lovely friend Clare Cole. Even the plates and props are pieces I’ve collected over the last decade. It feels so personal, and I hope people enjoy flicking through it as much as cooking from it.
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Inspired? Here are three of Xanthe's dishes to try at home…
Whipped Ricotta & Asparagus Bruschetta
I was inspired to cook asparagus this way after trying a dish at Atelier September in Copenhagen. They served the asparagus cut into rounds like this and I’ve done it a lot since. The British asparagus season is so short that I try to cook with it every day when it’s around. This means that later in the season, I may be searching for ways to cook that keep me inspired. Something simple like cutting the spears differently satisfies that for me, and I love the delicacy it gives to the asparagus. Asparagus always matches beautifully with dairy because of its freshness.
Put the ricotta, lemon zest and juice, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and a generous grind of pepper into a bowl. Whisk until smooth and light.
Snap the woody ends off the asparagus, then cut them into 1cm rounds. Fill a bowl with cold water and ice and set it to one side.
Bring a large saucepan of generously salted water to the boil, then drop in the asparagus and cook for about 1 minute. Drain and transfer straight to the ice bath to stop the cooking and keep the colour.
Cut the slices of toast in half and lay them on a plate. Spoon some ricotta onto each piece, spreading it with the back of a spoon.
Drain the asparagus, pat dry and place in a bowl. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil, season, and gently mix.
Top the whipped ricotta with a generous spoonful of the dressed asparagus. Season again if you like and serve immediately.
Peach, Hazelnut & Basil Galette
A galette is basically a simpler version of a tart, and I love it for that reason. You may have realised by now that I love pastry, and this is a great way to experiment with it if you’re not that confident yet. This recipe combines a few of my favourite things, with nuts and fruit and then basil bringing a bit of savoury to what would otherwise be a very sweet pudding. I macerate the fruit in the basil and sugar syrup overnight, but you could also do this just for an hour or so to get a similar effect. As with most puddings, this is perfect with a spoonful of lightly whipped cream.
In a bowl, combine the peach slices and basil leaves. Sprinkle with sugar and lemon juice, then cover and set aside to macerate for a few hours or overnight.
Preheat the oven to 160°C fan (325°F) and line a baking tray with parchment. Place the tray in the oven to heat.
Toast the hazelnuts on a separate tray in the oven for 5 minutes, then cool.
On a lightly floured surface, flatten the pastry into a disc, then roll into a 30cm circle. Transfer to the hot baking tray.
Drain the peaches and basil. Arrange in the centre of the pastry, leaving a 5cm border. Fold the pastry over the fruit edges.
Brush pastry with beaten egg and sprinkle with demerara sugar.
Bake for 45 minutes, checking at 30 minutes, until golden and crisp.
Roughly chop the hazelnuts and scatter over the warm galette. Serve with fresh basil leaves and a dollop of whipped cream.
New Potato, Asparagus, Chive & Egg Salad
When I lived in Wales, I lived a mile away from a field of asparagus and so had the complete pleasure of having a constant supply of it in my kitchen and would often make this salad with new season potatoes. Asparagus is a perennial vegetable to grows in the same field year after year. When you see how much of a commitment it is, how it grows and how time-consuming it is to harvest, you really appreciate what a special vegetable it is. You can keep the skin on the potatoes, but I find that more flavour is absorbed by them when they’re peeled. This salad really is the epitome of spring and embodies the excitement of the season ahead.
Half-fill a saucepan with generously salted water. Add the potatoes, bring to the boil and cook for 12-15 minutes until fork-tender. Drain and set aside.
Bring the same water back to the boil, add the asparagus and cook for 2-3 minutes until tender with bite. Drain and run under cold water.
Bring a separate small pan of water to the boil, gently add the eggs and cook for 7 minutes. Transfer to cold water, then peel and halve.
In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard and lemon juice. Stir in the mayonnaise, then whisk in the oil. Season with salt and pepper.
In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, asparagus, eggs and herbs. Gently toss with the dressing and serve.
Stay For Supper by Xanthe Ross is available to buy here.
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