My Life In Food: Roberta Hall-McCarron
The restaurant from my childhood that will always stay with me is San Marco, a family-friendly Italian in Stockbridge, Edinburgh. It was our family’s go-to Italian restaurant – not just for my immediate family, but for the extended family too. I couldn’t even tell you how many times we ate there. The owners knew us well, and it served simple, tasty Italian food. Plus, it was very family friendly.
The first dish I learned to cook was with my gran on baking days. Fairy cakes, tiffin, scones – weekends were all about baking together. Another memorable dish is lemon tart. I was working part-time at The Tower Restaurant in Edinburgh and the head chef at the time taught me how to make it.
The restaurant I revisit most often these days is Noto in Edinburgh. I don’t get out to restaurants as much as I used to since I have a two-year-old at home, but Stuart Ralston’s Noto is one of my favourites.
The best recent restaurant or bar opening for me is Montrose. It’s the sister restaurant to Edinburgh’s Timberyard, and the quality is amazing. It’s a beautiful space to sit in, and I’ve eaten in both areas – upstairs in the restaurant and downstairs in the wine bar. Both were wonderful, but I particularly enjoy the more casual vibe and sharing-style food downstairs.
One of the most memorable meals I’ve had was at Copenhagen restaurant Geranium. My husband Shaun had just proposed, and to celebrate, we tried to get a reservation there. They’d just been awarded three Michelin stars, so it was a long shot, but we managed to snag a last-minute cancellation. There’s something so special about going to a three-star restaurant without any planning. The meal and the service were faultless.
My favourite chef is Angela Hartnett. I love her no-nonsense attitude. She instils confidence with stellar training and is an inspiration to any female chef.
The best party I’ve ever thrown was my wedding, when 130 people tucked into perfectly cooked beef wellington. Thankfully, I didn't have to cook it.
My drink of choice is champagne. It’s always a good time for a glass.
After a long, late shift, I love a toasted bagel with lots of fillings. It’s my go-to comfort food. I also make shop-bought gnocchi with saucisson quite a lot. It’s super simple and satisfying.
Chicken thighs are my most-used ingredient. They’re so versatile – broth, nuggets, crispy sandwiches. They’re always a crowd-pleaser. I like to buy my ingredients at Stockbridge Market on a Sunday. It’s great for a food shopping trip – you can get wild game, quality veg and fresh fish. I go before my days off on Monday and Tuesday.
The Little Chartroom
When I’m entertaining at home, my signature dish is always a shared meal. It varies, but generally, I go for whole cuts of meat that everyone can share. The secret to hosting a good dinner party is preparation. Choose a menu that can be mostly made in advance and just needs finishing off.
Gennaro Veneruso would be my dream dinner party guest. He was one of my closest friend’s late fathers, and he owned a restaurant in Edinburgh. I spent a lot of my teenage years there, and when I started cheffing, he followed my career closely. He always said he wanted to invest in a restaurant for me, but he passed away before I opened The Little Chartroom. I would have loved to cook for him there.
My perfect Sunday starts with a morning walk with my husband and daughter. We head to our favourite bakery, Hobz, and if it’s sunny, we sit outside with coffee, babycinos, toasties, cookies, and pastries. Afterwards, we head to the park playground, and the day ends with a late afternoon roast at home. It has to be beef served with hash browns, Yorkshire puddings, leafy greens, and tons of gravy.
For a weekend brunch, I love making omelette Arnold Bennett. It’s a classic and a real treat.
My favourite takeaway is Chinese or ramen when I’m at home. We usually order lemon chicken, beef in black bean sauce and lots of prawn crackers. But when I’m out, fried chicken is my top choice.
The one dish I always order if I see it on a menu is lobster thermidor. It’s a classic, and I love the sauce.
The most decadent meal I’ve ever had was at Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare. It was my first three-star dining experience, and the produce was incredible.
For my death-row dinner, I’d want octopus and tomatoes to start. Then, juicy pink venison or lamb with greens, and a chocolate dessert – any form, as long as it’s chocolate.
One of my go-to cookbooks is Jeremy Fox’s On Vegetables. I also love books by Christina Tosi (Milk Bar), Ravneet Gill, Shaun Searley (The Quality Chop House), and Eleven Madison Park.
My food hell is artichokes and fennel. I just can’t do them.
Right now, I’m excited about my new dining venue, Ardfern. It’s a café, bar and bottle shop, open from 9am for breakfast and moving to a small plates menu in the evening. It’s a lovely, relaxed space with great food and drinks. My debut cookbook, The Changing Tides, also features seasonal recipes for home cooks – there’s something for everyone, from small bites to three-course dinner menus with paired cocktails.
If you want to try Roberta's food in London, book a ticket for her upcoming supper club at Claridge’s on Monday 10th March 2025 from 6pm. Tickets cost £295pp.
For more, follow her at @CHEF_ROBERTA_HALL.
The Changing Tides by Roberta Hall-McCarron (Kitchen Press, £25 is available to buy now). Photography by Rebecca Dickson.
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