Le Comptoir Robuchon, Mayfair
Joël Robuchon was the most decorated chef in the history of the Michelin Guide, at one time holding 32 stars across his restaurant empire. The chef, who died last year, pioneered the ‘cuisine moderne’ style of cooking, placing emphasis on a handful of ingredients where flavour was paramount. This month, two new spots have launched under his name. Le Comptoir Robuchon is now open on Clarges Street. The kitchen is led by exec chef Jeremy Page, who worked closely with Robuchon for over a decade at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris. The menu is designed for sharing and is composed of two parts: ‘La Saison’, a selection of contemporary, seasonal dishes, and ‘Les Eternels’, a collection of Robuchon’s beloved classics, such as native lobster and romesco sauce; quail, foie gras and truffle; and Robuchon’s famous mashed potato. As well as the stylish cooking, Le Comptoir’s interiors deserve a mention: with tones of burnt orange and clay and plenty of marble and banquette seating, it’s one of the most attractive restaurants of 2019. At the end of the month, keep an eye out for Le Deli Robuchon, a more casual spot that will open on Piccadilly.
6 Clarges Street, Mayfair, W1J 8AE
The Borough Market Kitchen, Borough
This November, Borough Market will celebrate 21 years as a pillar of London’s food community by introducing The Borough Market Kitchen, a new communal dining space housed in Jubilee Place. The venue will play host to over 20 food traders, who’ll be cooking with the market’s seasonal produce. Here, familiar favourites such as La Tua Pasta and Horn OK will sit alongside newcomers including Mei Mei by chef Elizabeth Haigh and a new pintxos bar from Mimo London. As the space comes to life each lunchtime, the market will be filled with long tables where guests can tuck into everything from Iranian scotch eggs from Scotchtails to traditional Jamaican dishes cooked by Rudie’s Jerk Shack. Continuing the market’s emphasis on ethics and sustainability, The Borough Market Kitchen will be constructed from recycled sustainable materials, and will be entirely single-use plastic free.
8 Southwark Street, Borough, SE1 1TL; opens mid-November
14 Hills, City
D&D London has just opened 14 Hills, a new restaurant, bar and deli on the City’s square mile. The pretty 14th-floor restaurant contains a variety of trees, shrubs and seasonal climbers, transforming the open-plan space into an indoor garden with views towards Tower Bridge. Heading up the kitchen is Thomas Piat, formerly exec chef at Daniel Boulud’s Bar Boulud. Piat’s menu focuses on modern British cooking with a touch of French flair, with many dishes influenced by his life and cooking experience in France. Signature hits will include a sharing dish of venison (roast saddle, venison pie, venison bone marrow, plus long pepper and whisky sauce); a seafood starter of white crab, cauliflower and Oscietra caviar; plus classics such as beef tartare; Jersey rock oysters; and dover sole served on the bone.
120 Fenchurch Street, City, EC3M 5BA
The Laundry, Brixton
The Laundry is a new neighbourhood bistro and wine shop in Brixton. The modern restaurant occupies Edwardian building Walton Lodge on Coldharbour Lane and offers laid-back, cosy banquettes alongside elegant bar and counter seating, where guests can choose from 50 wines on the main list, including eight served by the glass. It’s a lovely looking space: picture antique mirrors, plush emerald greens and vintage furniture sourced by Brown. Outside, a south-facing Parisian-inspired terrace sits next to Brixton Village, offering plenty of café-style seating for drinking wine and people watching. The Laundry’s menu focuses on classical dishes and techniques and dishes include pink fir potatoes baked in salt pastry with garlic, rosemary and herb cream; cured day-boat seabass with pickled strawberry, pepper, tarragon and sunflower seeds; and Hereford beef tartar with fermented chilli, prawn oil, egg yolk, bonito and triple-cooked beef-fat chips. Perfect fare for this time of year.
374 Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, SW9 8PL
Stoney Street, Borough
Following the success of 26 Grains in Neal’s Yard, Alex Hely-Hutchinson will open Stoney Street in Borough Market later this month. Named after the street it’s on, the restaurant will be open from breakfast through to dinner, focusing on simple seasonal dishes made with carefully considered produce. Come evening, candles will be lit and the kitchen will dish up the likes of pollock with fennel, orange, olives and braised lentils; pappardelle with wild mushroom, sorrel and tarragon sauce; and bavette with swiss chard, taleggio and slow-roasted shallots. Designed by Block1, the interiors are simple and stripped-back, featuring the original brushed concrete floors and lime-washed walls, with hand-built wooden furniture throughout. Guests can choose to perch at one of the restaurant’s two counters, looking over the restaurant, or outwards on to passers-by from the window bar. In the warmer months, the space’s bi-fold wooden doors will open, exposing the back terrace where guests can dine late into the evening.
2-3 Stoney Street, Borough, SE1 9AA; opens 22nd November
Following the success of The Shed in Notting Hill, Rabbit on the Kings Road and Nutbourne in Battersea, the Gladwin brothers have opened their first West End project. This new Soho site celebrates everything that’s great about the Sussex countryside: ingredients are sourced directly from the Gladwins’ family farm and vineyard or local suppliers handpicked by the three brothers – Richard, Oliver and Gregory – to ensure that sustainability is always at the core of their business. Highlights on the menu include monkfish carpaccio with aubergine, lemon, chilli and toasted pine nuts and red amaranth; artichoke and potato nests, beetroot tahini, pickled onions, feta and dill oil dust; and pumpkin gnocchi with caramelised quince, sage and tunworth foam, garnished with buckwheat and sorrel. For a more immersive experience, guests should head downstairs to the state-of-the-art kitchen, which hosts a chef’s table for up to 20 people.
63-64 Frith Street, Soho, W1D 3JW
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