A Restaurant Worth Travelling To: The Woodcote, Sussex
THE CONCEPT
Set within the rolling hills of the South Downs National Park, The Woodcote is a recently restored country pub that’s now a smart restaurant with rooms worth crossing counties for. At its core is a contemporary menu led by local chef Matt Gillan, known for winning appearances on Great British Menu and for securing a Michelin star for The Pass at South Place in nearby Horsham. Matt’s dishes focus on seasonal ingredients sourced from local farms and producers as well as the pub’s own bee hives and kitchen garden, which guests are free to explore during a stay here. And while this is just the start of The Woodcote’s ambitious journey, a meal here already impresses.
THE SETTING
On the edge of the pretty village of Graffham, surrounded by fields full of llamas and alpacas, the Woodcote makes an impression as you pull into the car park. Whether you’re staying overnight or working up an appetite for a long lunch, it’s worth arriving early to soak in the beauty of the South Downs National Park. From the restaurant, there are lots of circular walks and strolls of varying length and difficulty. Even if you just opt to explore Graffham and neighbouring estate Lavington, you’ll be rewarded with views and charming churches.
Whether you’ve worked up a sweat or not, stepping into the Woodcote is a welcoming experience. The front section of the building is a refined take on a country inn, with open fires and relaxed spaces – the table in the bay window was flanked by a handsome pair of black labs when we arrived. While local ales are on offer, the drinks menu is not just traditional. We kicked off our meal with a Matcha Martini (Sapling climate-positive vodka, fino sherry, matcha and lavender) and an excellent Nutty By Nature (brown butter-washed bourbon, amaretto, lemon and cinnamon).
The restaurant itself takes on a different atmosphere. Lined with windows, it’s a bright space that allows your eyes to roam out towards the gardens and far-reaching Downs views. The outside is brought in via arrangements of zinnias, sunflowers and cosmos, all grown in the garden, which are used in the table displays. Cane chairs and sage-green walls combine to make the restaurant feel as though you’re dining in the conservatory of a modern country manor. In the summer months, there’s a patio garden that comes into its own. At night, candles take centre stage to bathe the room in a warm glow.
THE FOOD
Sustainability and seasonality drive the à la carte menus here. Two key ingredients are wild venison (reared locally) and fresh trout from Duncton Mill, which is just five minutes away. Whether fallow deer in the winter months or roe in the summer, venison is always on the menu. It could appear in a tartare with pickled grapes, charcoal emulsion and alliums or as a main of loin, shoulder, belly ragout, beetroot fondant and beetroot ketchup. This is what we ordered and it was the perfect showcase for this underrated meat.
One of the most popular dishes on the menu is the crab tartlet – and with good reason. Creatively presented, the tartlet is served on a plate atop a bowl of rich lobster bisque, with cubes of cucumber for freshness and three moreish cheese beignets. Another highlight was the starter of glazed chicken wings, served with a potato rösti, chicken liver parfait and rhubarb hoisin, which was elegantly plated and packed a punch of flavour.
There was a fun, unexpected ingredient to lift every dish. This was most obvious on the pudding menu, where a deliciously light yoghurt cake was served with apple compôte, white chocolate crisp and fennel sorbet. Or a chocolate crèmeux and fudge cake, which came accompanied by pine nut ice-cream and burnt pineapple purée. The impressively varied vegetarian menu also deserves a specific mention, where care has been taken to make it more than an afterthought. The green tea-cured mooli with white onion velouté, tempura mushroom and spiced almonds is a highlight.
THE VERDICT
For a restaurant of this calibre, it was quite refreshing to have à la carte dishes rather than a long tasting menu, which you might expect based on Matt’s previous kitchens (one of his first chef jobs was at Daniel Clifford’s Midsummer House). The relaxed nature of the restaurant is echoed in the warm service. The Woodcote is largely staffed by locals who have travelled the world working in high-end hospitality, but been drawn back home.
The spirit of Sussex is also woven into menus across the board. Sussex isn’t short of interesting wine producers (Nyetimber, Rathfinny and Ridgeview all come from these parts). But it was great to see smaller winemakers have their moment on the drinks list. We were given a glass of Sugrue sparkling wine when we arrived to drop our bags off, which led to a conversation about its chardonnay (full name: Bonkers Zombie Robot Alien Monsters From The Future Ate My Brain). Naturally, we had to try a glass of that too. Discovery is one of the best things about going out for dinner and on that front, The Woodcote excelled.
The Woodcote as it operates today is impressive but the team has also recently won planning permission to build a whole new double-height restaurant, a fresh set of bedrooms (some in high-end pods built into the hills) and a larger chef’s garden for Matt to grow year-round ingredients. Until then, you’ll find us on the patio over the summer, a glass of Sugrue’s Bonkers in hand.
WHERE TO STAY
For now, there are six lovely bedrooms in a former stable block. Each have stylish, neutral décor, huge comfy beds and – best of all – Wildsmith products in the bathrooms, plus pretty terraces out the back, which look directly across to the hills of the South Downs and ancient woodland. It’s the perfect place to sit with a coffee before heading over for a wonderful breakfast, which features a pastry basket, honey from the garden hives and excellent smoked trout on toast.
HOW TO GET THERE
From London, Graffham is about 1 hour 30 minutes by car. By train, it’s a 15-minute taxi ride from Pulborough station, which itself is 1 hour and 20 minutes from London Victoria.
The Woodcote, Graffham, West Sussex, GU28 0NT
Visit THEWOODCOTE.COM
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