2024’s Most Googled Beauty Questions Answered
SKINCARE
Niacinamide is so popular – what are the benefits?
“Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, and it can interact with several different skin cell types, which is what makes it so effective. It’s a component of a molecule called NAD+ – a coenzyme which acts as a shuttle, helping our cells carry out several essential processes. As our skin cells age, our natural NAD+ levels fall, so using a topical niacinamide can help cells to work more efficiently. In addition, it has anti-inflammatory effects and is known to reduce melanin – dark spots – within the skin. Niacinamide can be used on all different skin types and is very unlikely to cause irritation, so you can understand the appeal.” – Dr Emma Wedgeworth, consultant dermatologist
Can you ever really get rid of dark circles?
“There are different types of dark circles. Ageing can be a key factor. Over time, this area experiences a loss of volume, which causes under-eye hollowing. That’s what creates the shadow associated with dark circles. It’s also important to understand that people with deeper skin tones, who are more prone to hyperpigmentation, are more susceptible. The most common and avoidable factors that can make dark circles look worse are lifestyle related. Most common is a lack of sleep, but alcohol is also notorious for causing dark circles. This is due to its dehydrating effect. A bad diet is another factor – for example, too much salt, which can lead to water retention, can make dark circles more noticeable. While you can’t ever get rid of them entirely, medical-grade products can deliver good results. I recommend ‘Brightalive’ by ZO Skin Health. This technologically advanced skin brightener is clinically proven to increase luminosity, visibly improve skin clarity, and fade the appearance of dark spots for a brighter, more even complexion.” – Dr Tara Francis, founder of Enhance by Dr Tara
Is there a correct way to layer your skincare?
“Layering all comes down to the consistency of your products. As a rule, I’d say work from thinnest to thickest. So, watery, fluid serums are first with richer, occlusive moisturisers last to seal everything in. This allows maximum absorption of everything. I also recommend spritzing thermal water onto skin post-cleanse before you apply any serums. This maximises the humectant effect and draws ingredients into the skin. It goes without saying, but SPF should always come last.” – Dr Justine Hextall, consultant dermatologist
What do AHAs do?
“AHAs are water soluble acids that appear naturally in fruits, sugar cane and milk, which is why they are often referred to as fruit acids. They exfoliate surface dead skin cells by dissolving the bond that holds the cells together, whereas BHAs such as salicylic acid are lipid soluble and penetrate deep into pores to remove oil and skin cells. AHAs help to brighten skin, improve texture and reduce unwanted pigmentation. At higher concentrations, especially with sensitive skin, these acids can cause dryness and irritation, so balancing them with calming, hydrating skincare is important. Remember that acid peels can leave skin more vulnerable to UV sensitivity, so wearing an SPF is also important.” – Justine
The Vault Stock
When does skincare tend to expire?
“It depends on the product, so always check its expiry date, which is often in small print on either the bottom or top of the bottle. You can also find it on packaging. Some products do degrade faster than others, however. For instance, L-ascorbic acid is the most active form of vitamin C, and it weakens once exposed to light and heat. When it oxidises, vitamin C serum can go from a straw colour to orange. Sun cream also has a definite expiry date, which must be checked. The bottle should have a number and the letter M, indicating how many months it will remain effective for after opening (on average around 12 months). Remember exposure to light and heat can accelerate this process. If there is a change in consistency, smell or colour, I would throw it away. Most unopened sun creams stored in a cool, dark place last two to three years.” – Justine
Blackheads are common, but can you ever get rid of them?
“I always like to clarify that blackheads don’t mean your skin is dirty. With that in mind, your complexion doesn’t need endless cleansing. Blackheads are oil in the follicle that is exposed to the air and has oxidised to a darker colour. This may sound counter intuitive, but make sure your skin care routine is effective but not stripping. When we over-cleanse, especially with harsh products that can leave our skin feeling tight and dry, we promote inflammation and leave skin vulnerable to bacteria. This can exacerbate acne-prone skin. Using gentle hydrating products might help. I love the CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser as it helps to balance a skincare regime, especially when using actives. The next step is removing dead skin cells that, along with oil and dirt, may block the pore. AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid are very effective at this. I also recommend looking for BHA serums and toners as these can help to unblock oil in the follicle – I recommend the Paula’s Choice BHA toner. Other ingredients that help to unblock pores include benzyl peroxide and azelaic acid – the latter is excellent at balancing oil production in skin. I recommend Effaclar Duo+M from La Roche-Posay, which contains salicylic acid and niacinamide to reduce blackheads but also calm and balance skin, and help to reduce blemishes and post-acne marks.” – Justine
What is skin cycling?
“This is a technique that was coined by the dermatologist Dr Whitney Bowe and went viral on TikTok. Essentially, it is an approach where actives are applied on a couple of days (e.g. retinoid one day and acids the next) and then there are fallow days when it is all about calming and hydrating products to repair the skin barrier. Some argue that unless you are using your retinoid daily, you are missing out. I think that, when introducing actives, it is vital to consider barrier hydration and repair. It is possible to use retinoids daily, but only if the skin isn’t becoming dry and irritated. My focus is always to build the most robust skin barrier. After that, actives can be introduced, but with the caveat that a calm hydrated skin barrier also remains the goal. Start actives slowly, start at low concentrations, and always barrier delicate skin prone to dryness – for instance around the nose, under the eyes and on the neck.” – Justine
MAKE-UP
How do you get a natural make-up look?
“It sounds obvious, but a perfectly cleansed and moisturised base is where you need to be starting. This preps the skin and ensures everything else goes on smoothly and evenly, which already helps with a natural finish. I always start with a great balm cleanser – Emma Hardie Moringa Cleanser is my go-to for silky smooth skin – to remove any reminisce of dirt or make-up. I use it with a face cloth to exfoliate, then apply a light layer of moisturiser to finish. Then I would always prioritise a great foundation as this really is the key to natural make-up, and does most of the hard work for you. You want to look for a foundation that gives enough coverage and a gentle luminosity to the skin. A favourite for me is the Suqqu Liquid Foundation which I come back to repeatedly for a flawless finish. Once you have your foundation in place, if you need a little more coverage, you can go in lightly with a concealer for any areas that need it. I would be extremely gentle here, just a little on an eyeliner brush for any spot coverage or delicately placed around the nose or under the eyes, will be enough as it's important to keep the whole make-up looking light. By Terry’s Hyaluronic Serum Concealer is a great choice for coverage that, because of its hydrating formula, never looks too heavy.” – Jessica Kell, make-up artist
Any go-to tips for contouring subtly?
“I love to use a cream contour stick, which I apply straight from the bullet in exactly the places I need it. This gives me precision when contouring to really pop the cheekbones and create exact shapes on the nose and crease of the eye. I then use a larger buffing brush (generally the same one I have used to apply my foundation with) to lightly buff over the lines and blend into the skin. Products I recommend for this include Victoria Beckham’s Contour Stylus and Makeup By Mario’s Soft Sculpt™ Shaping Stick. Both are so easy to work with. The other way I like to contour is much softer but still creates a sculpted look. I use either a powder or cream contour colour, which I apply with a tapered brush in order to get it in the right places. My pro tip is to use a powder contour to apply a loose face powder in the areas you are going to contour first – this will create a powder base for the contour to sit on. Then sweep the contour colour under the cheekbones, along the jawline and up into the hairline.” – Jessica
What are the best multi-tasking make-up products?
“A hydrating mist can be used to prep the skin and lock in moisture, but can also be used over the top of your finished make-up to help soften and blend your look. They can also be used throughout the day to hit refresh, and are great to apply first to the skin if you are adding more make-up for the evening. I recommend Lisa Eldridge Skin & Make-Up Enhancing Mist and Curél’s Deep Moisture Spray. Another multipurpose product I recommend is a blush and lip tint. They not only save on time and space, but they are so good for creating cohesive make-up finishes. I apply them liberally to the centre of the lip and cover with a clear gloss, then take them onto the tops of the apples of the cheeks and blur them out along the cheekbones. Paired with great skincare, a touch of concealer and a coat of mascara, you really don’t need anything else for a day-to-day make-up. You can’t go wrong with the NARS Multiple, YSL’s NU Lip & Cheek Balmy Tint and Trinny London’s Lip2Cheek. Tanning drops are another multi-tasking favourite throughout the year because of their versatility. You can apply them straight to skin, in place of foundation, or into your moisturiser when you want a hint of something. Sometimes I use them to adjust the tone of my foundation during summer too. My favourites are by James Read – his Sunbright Tinted Tanning Drops are brilliant.” – Jessica
Studio Firma/Stocksy United
How should we all be cleaning our Beautyblender?
“Squeeze a coin-sized amount of brush cleanser (you can use baby shampoo or a gentle soap, you don’t need to spend a fortune) into your palm or a shallow bowl, wet the sponge, then massage it with gentle shampoo. Rinse beneath a slow stream of warm water and repeat this process until water runs clear. Gently squeeze and allow to dry fully on any surface. I clean my sponges and brushes weekly. It’s a lot of work, but so important in eliminating any built-up bacteria which will only lead to breakouts.” – Trish McEvoy, brand founder & make-up artist
What’s the best way to apply blush for the best results?
“For a cream blush, press your ring finger or lay a brush down into the product, and gently press on the back of your hand to warm up the colour. Apply one little dot on your cheek, then one above it, heading towards the highest points of your face. Gently work the product into your skin blending upwards. For powder blush, I like to sweep a blush brush into the colour, tap off excess and then test the colour on the back of my hand. Soft, peachy colours are universally flattering – I always recommend my Blush in ‘Pink Glow’. When it comes to application, smile and apply the blush to the apple of the cheek – the highest point when you smile – sweeping slightly out but never beyond the eyebrow. Blend until the colour becomes at one with your skin.” – Trish
HAIR
Balayage is still so popular, but what is it?
“Balayage is a softened, sun-kissed, low-maintenance colour, and it’s become a go-to for anyone who is time-sensitive or looking for something fuss-free. The name ‘balayage’ is French and means to sweep or paint, which is the exact technique experts use. It involves hand-painting hair in a sweeping motion with a brush, which creates a sun-kissed colour that, once grown out, leaves behind a softer, blended regrowth. There’s more than one type of balayage on offer. First, you have the classic version, which is a painted-on gradient that blends from your base colour into lighter ends – this usually takes on a ‘less is more’ approach. This has evolved though, and you can now get a brunette balayage with strokes of soft caramel, chestnut or toffee – the choice is yours. You can also get a deeper blonde balayage (think Gisele) which is quite natural and very flattering. One of our most requested is a ‘Californian’ colour. This gives hair a sun-drenched feel and the balayage is placed more heavily around the face to give a framing effect.” – Francesca Dixon, HARI’s balayage specialist
Can you help your hair grow faster?
“Hair grows, on average, half an inch a month. You cannot speed this up. That said, there are plenty of things that can prevent your hair from reaching the desired length. For instance, nutritional deficiencies can cause hair to fall out before it reaches the length it’s capable of. Addressing nutritional deficiencies or any other underlying cause can therefore help you achieve your optimal rate of hair growth. Breakage can also prevent hair from growing longer, so looking after your hair’s general condition and strength is important. It’s vital you look after your scalp and treat it similarly to the skin on your face. Cleanse regularly and, if you have a scalp condition like dandruff, treat it with targeted daily topicals, such as an anti-dandruff mask. Scalp health is essential to healthy hair growth. Numerous studies have shown that a flaky, inflamed scalp can lead to hair loss. It’s also key you eat nutritiously. Diet is so important to hair growth. Being a non-essential tissue, hair is the last part of us to receive nutrients and the first to be withheld from them. Even small vitamin and mineral deficiencies can impact hair growth. Lastly, if your hair is breaking, it won’t reach past a certain length. Breakage can also thin out your mid-lengths and ends. To keep your hair in good condition, try to avoid heat, brush gently, and use a weekly pre-shampoo deep conditioning treatment to combat breakage and dryness such as our Elasticizer.” – Anabel Kingsley, consultant trichologist & brand president at Philip Kingsley
What’s the best way to get rid of dandruff?
“Just as if you had a skin condition, like acne, a scalp condition needs consistent and daily treatment to bring it under control. After all, your scalp is simply an extension of the skin on your forehead – and so skincare should not stop at your hairline. To combat dandruff, your scalp needs to be cleansed daily with a targeted shampoo. Look to ones that contain ingredients like piroctone olamine – which specifically targets the Malassezia yeasts. After shampooing and conditioning, apply a soothing and anti-microbial scalp toner containing ingredients such as witch hazel and camphor. It’s important not to scratch, as doing so can further aggravate your scalp and initiate an infuriating ‘itch-scratch cycle’. Scratching can also introduce bacteria into the scalp and cause infection. Lastly, avoid foods and drinks that commonly trigger dandruff. These include full-fat dairy products like cheese, as well as champagne, white wine, and very spicy and sugary food.” – Anabel
How often should you wash your hair & why?
“Washing hair too often can sometimes dry your hair out or affect the colour but, on the flipside, not washing enough will lead to scalp issues – the answer is balance. If you suffer with dandruff or irritation, you need to balance the pH of your scalp – washing it too much can strip all of that away. My advice is to wash your hair every three days. For people who don’t suffer with oiliness, or have thicker hair, then go as long as you can without shampooing.” – Nicky Lazou, expert hairstylist & colourist
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