An Insider’s Guide To Liguria
CAMOGLI
Life in this small fishing town is very slow and relaxed. While you’re here, you must embrace that: wake up late and have a little wander around the village. You’ll find lovely markets for fresh fruit and veg, old workshops dotted around, and a few small shops selling local linens and handmade ceramics. After a browse, have lunch on the beach front and spend the afternoon lounging on the shore, or hire a boat and float out, where you can admire the view from afar. Visit in May for the annual Sagra del Pesce (the Festival of the Fish), where a famous giant frying pan is used by local fisherman to fry tons of seafood right on the seafront. August is the Festa Della Stella Maris (Festival of the Star of the Sea), when candles float on the sea in honour of the Madonna who protects local sailors.
Where To Stay
Cenobio Dei Dogi: My parents have been staying at the Cenobio Dei Dogi hotel since the early 80s – and I’ve been staying there all my life. We have family photos of my dad holding me in the pool in 1987 and also some of him holding both of my daughters as babies in the exact same spot. It’s a ridiculously kitsch hotel, almost forgotten in time – all the staff wear white tie. It’s mostly stayed the same in the time that I’ve been visiting it, except for a few vital upgrades, but that’s all part of the charm. It’s very nostalgic and completely, utterly genuine. The restaurant has had the same maitre d’ for over 30 years and he remembers us each time. The location and setting of the hotel are second to none – it’s built into the cliff edge overlooking the rocky sea beneath. And the view it has of Camogli is perfect: the crescent moon-shaped beach front, pastel trompe l’oeil houses with all the laundry hanging on the windowsills, and the stunning church. It’s picture perfect. The hotel has its own small pebbly beach, and a great poolside. It’s really a gem of a place.
Villa Rosmarino: This hotel is a little way up the hill. As you go into the groves, you’ll find this lovely guesthouse with only six rooms, a pool and a stunning view. This is a great option if you want to be somewhere a bit quieter and away from the summer crowds.
Sublimis: This adults-only boutique hotel is no frills and very simply decorated – but has the best location and view possible.
Where To Eat & Drink
Focacceria Revello: This is the spot to stop and buy your focaccia di recco, the local speciality of focaccia with stracchino cheese. After this, you can head for a day at one of the beach clubs, or the little public beach, with your lunch in tow. They also sell camogliesi, freshly baked traditional pastries with cream fillings flavoured with rum, Amaretto or gianduja. They’re a must-try.
La Camogliese: A traditional restaurant that’s been in this spot forever, La Camogliese is a little wooden hut perched over the beach with tons of atmosphere. This is the place to have fritto misto and homemade trofie al pesto. The pesto in Camogli Is the best in the world, as the basil is grown and protected in Liguria, and whizzed together with local olive oil.
La Cucina Di Nonna Nina: This is a small restaurant up above Camogli in the hills in San Rocco. It’s a wonderful, family run restaurant that serves very traditional Ligurian recipes. You must try the amaretto pudding.
Ostaia da ò Sigù: The food at Ostaia da ò Sigù is very simple and rooted in tradition. It’s on the main promenade, and there are even some little secret tables down some steps closer to the beach.
Ristorante Da Paolo: This local gem is very old fashioned and steeped in tradition, but it’s an absolute classic and serves all the most popular Ligurian dishes.
Cenobio Dei Dogi: The terrace at the Cenobio Dei Dogi hotel is one of my favourite spots for aperitivo. The white ironed tablecloths and huge Campari spritzes, paired with one of the best views in the Italian Riviera, make it divine. You’ll want to stay for dinner. At night in the summer, the outline of all the buildings along the coast are lit up with strings of lights. It really is something to see – and this is the best spot to take in the view.
Il Barcollo & The Pub La Cage Aux Folles: During the summer months these waterfront bars are always full of atmosphere. There’s a fun vibe, with people just coming off the beach for aperitivo and after-dinner fun.
What To See & Do
San Fruttuoso: While you’re in Camogli, you must visit San Fruttuoso. Beneath a medieval abbey, in a secluded bay, is San Fruttuoso. It’s only accessible by boat or foot, adding to the magic. There is an inland trail and a coastal trail, the latter of which is preferable for the views. But be warned – it’s not for the faint hearted, so make sure you wear the correct footwear and watch your step. Another great activity is hiring boats in the main little fishing port in Camogli. If you go by boat you can try to catch a glimpse of the bronze monument, The Christ of the Abyss, placed on the seafloor in the 50s.
Basilica Di Santa Maria Assunta: Don’t miss this local landmark. Not only is its location second to none, but it’s stunning inside.
SANTA MARGHERITA
Just 20 minutes’ drive from Camogli is charming Santa Margarita. It’s a great place to spend a night. It has a lovely, palm-lined promenade dotted with small shops and restaurants which overlook the pebbly beach front. From the promenade you can look out on row upon row of stripes parasols, sun beds and beach huts.
Where To Stay
Grand Hotel Miramare: This hotel is in a beautiful art-nouveau building, with centuries-old gardens. It’s a classic, grand and homely place to stay.
Hotel Blu Di Te: Just a five-minute walk from the beach is this small boutique hotel. I love its mix of contemporary and vintage styling.
Where To Eat & Drink
Da Gennaro: Open since 1947 and still family run, this place is an institution. A table on the terrace here is gold dust in the summer months. Expect simple, classic food – nothing fussy or fancy.
Bar Sabot: Always buzzy, busy and hard to get a waiter’s attention, this is a low-key, great place for drinks before or after dinner at Da Gennaro.
Imperiale Palace Hotel: This hotel has the most wonderful view over the bay and is a super-smart place for aperitivo – and offers a good chance to snoop around the most expensive hotel in Santa Margherita.
What To See & Do
Seghezzo: Open since 1905, this family run Italian deli is the chicest supermarket I’ve ever visited. You could spend hours in here and come away with the best souvenirs – of the speciality Italian foods variety. I’m always impressed with its branding.
Pasticceria La Viennese: This is a sweet café to visit for fresh cakes and pastries – especially the cannolini alla crema.
PORTOFINO
Portofino is just as charming as Camogli, but a little more glamorous – and better known. For me, Portofino is all about having a long dinner, getting a gelato and watching the world go by. When you’re there, start with a walk up to the Chiesa Di San Giorgio to see the prettiest little yellow church. Once you look back, you’ll see the picturesque harbour and cobbled piazza.
Where To Stay
Splendido Mare: This is a gorgeous Belmond hotel right on the main harbour square. It has amazing views and feels right in the middle of all the action – but you’re also able to quickly nip back into your heavenly hotel room.
Hotel Eden: This is a beautiful villa with lovely mature gardens that is slightly set back from the main square, down a little lane. It’s great for groups.
Piccolo Hotel: Less than a five-minute walk from the main harbour square you’ll find this lovely little hotel. It’s on the cove below the Splendido and has its own private rocky beach.
Where To Eat & Drink
Paraggi: En route to Portofino is Paraggi where a couple of smart restaurants sit on the little secluded bay. The water here is crystal clear and any of the restaurants are perfect for a long summer lunch.
Langosteria: This is more than just a beach restaurant – it’s a super chic place to spend the entire day or evening. The Tiffany blue umbrellas dotted all the way down to the water are the best place to spend the day tucking into some seriously special seafood.
Ristorante Puny: This is my favourite spot to eat in Portofino. Order a Rossini cocktail and settle in for some people watching.
Taverna Del Marinaio: Great seafood, great vibe and lower key than Da Puny, this feels like a local spot.
Hotel Splendido: There can’t be anywhere in the world with a better setting for aperitivo. The view, the service, the flowers and the smell of jasmine in the air set the scene each evening.
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