The Best Places To Explore Norway In Winter
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OSLO
Norway’s capital is where you’ll find some of the world’s best museums, galleries and restaurants, not to mention several interesting neighbourhoods to explore. Head to the harbour promenade for ultra-modern architecture and a look around the striking new Munch museum, before moving onto the city’s sculpture parks – Vigeland Park and Ekebergparken – for modernist land art and installations. Genzfeld and Skyspace by US artist James Turrell at the latter is a genuine marvel. Winter is still a good time to make the most of the city’s beautiful scenery: you can cold-water swim along Oslo Fjord, kayak in forest lakes, or go island hopping to walk along the beaches in Langøyene and Lindøya. Back in the city, spend an afternoon learning about the Vikings at Vikingskipshuset, home to several historic ships, and Akershus Festning, a beautiful medieval castle near the harbour.
Oslo’s food scene bounces well between Michelin-starred restaurants and fun food halls that showcase the best of Norway’s ingredients. If you go to one restaurant, make it Kontrast – a two-Michelin-starred restaurant that serves different traditional Norwegian dishes every day using local, seasonal ingredients. There’s also Maaemo, with three stars, plus a Green one for its commitment to low-waste cooking. At the other end of the scale, there are plenty of relaxed neighbourhood spots worth visiting, including Kafeteria August which serves small plates with cocktails and wine; Dapper Bistro (and sister venue Bistro) where diners can order coffee and pastries in the day, and veg-centric dishes in the evening; and Skall Matbar, a small restaurant offering up delicious seafood dishes. Zarathustra serves the best mezze in Oslo and Brasserie France is a little piece of Paris in Scandinavia.
Oslo has a few smart boutique hotels to know. Our first choice would be Amerikalinjen, set in a building that was once the headquarters of a Norwegian cruise ship company. Guests can now stay in one of 122 modern rooms and suites, most of which have original features like deep-ledged art-deco windows. Standard rooms are small but cosy for a weekend trip, while deluxe rooms have spacious living areas filled with an eclectic mix of modern and vintage furniture. For Scandi minimalism, book a room at The Thief in Tjuvholmen. Designed by Nordic architects, the decor is moody and atmospheric, with Damien Hirst pieces scattered across the floors. Then there’s Sommerro, Oslo’s newest luxury hotel in a wonderful 1930s art-deco building. The interiors and art are a huge draw but ultimately, it’s about the culinary scene: there are seven restaurants and bars, as well as a super luxe spa and year-round rooftop pool – a first for the city.
ÅLESUND
Arriving into Ålesund is a reminder that some destinations announce themselves early. If you fly in from Oslo (flights are just 55 minutes), you’ll get the see the majesty of this part of western Norway’s fjords from above, looking down on countless islands that are stitched together by floating roads and underwater tunnels. It feels cinematic before you’ve even landed.
You could easily spend a week in Ålesund. A town famous for its art-nouveau stylings, typical of early 20th-century Scandinavian architecture, it’s also a place where mountains and fjords meet the ocean, resulting in some of the country’s most dramatic scenery. Tourists flock for the Unesco World Heritage Site of Geirangerfjord (a jewel among Norwegian fjords), the bird sanctuary island of Runde, and the snow-capped mountains of Hjørundfjord and Sunnmørsalpene. Whether you’re up for hiking, kayaking, sea safaris, fjord cruises and deep-sea rafting, 62° Nord is the company to turn to for any outdoor adventures.
Ålesund is home to 62º Nord’s most westerly hotel, Brosundet, set within a collection of former fishery warehouses. At its heart is a soaring fireplace that climbs several storeys, creating a sense of warmth and theatre the moment you step inside. There are 131 rooms spread over two buildings – look out too for Room 47, housed inside the iconic red lighthouse at the port of Ålesund.
Guests can enjoy local seafood and seasonal veg at the hotel’s Apotekergata No5 restaurant or walk a couple of streets away to Sjøbua, the hotel’s high-end seafood restaurant. With the harbour on its doorstep, the menu celebrates Norway’s cold-water bounty. Langoustines from nearby Midsund – impossibly sweet –are served simply with burnt cream, while standout dishes include salted clipfish croquettes, halibut terrine with green peppers and white wine sauce, and a quietly brilliant pudding of bread ice-cream with honey and coffee crumble.
A morning at Brosundet should always begin with a sunrise soak in one of the two outdoor bubble baths overlooking the harbour. After braving a cold plunge in the canal, you can warm up in the outdoor sauna before heading inside for coffee and a warming cinnamon bun.
ØYE
Getting to Union Øye is part of its magic. A couple of hours by boat from Ålesund, the journey into Hjørundfjorden feels increasingly remote, as mountains stretch up either side of the water, with the occasional red and yellow wooden houses adding a pop of colour to the otherwise stark surroundings.
Dating back to 1891, Union Øye is gloriously old-fashioned. Fires crackle constantly, candlelight glows throughout the day, and the bedrooms in the main house feature four-poster beds, printed wallpapers, roll-top baths and layered textiles. There are also charming thatched cottages dotted around the grounds, complete with fireplaces, which can be lit for you, and beautiful statement baths. Elsewhere, there are plenty of cosy nooks and libraries to relax with a book, its statement bar is the place to try an aquavit negroni and the conservatory restaurant is a beautiful space that serves refined takes on Norwegian classics, using ingredients from the hotel’s kitchen garden – think reindeer with lingonberries and raw prawns with smoked cream and trout roe.
The hamlet of Øye itself is tiny, and that sense of seclusion defines the experience. Guests can hire e-bikes to make light work of cycling through the neighbouring towering valleys once carved by glaciers. There are also plenty of hiking routes for all weather and all abilities. The highlight, though, is the floating sauna, gently bobbing on the fjord beneath a dramatic waterfall. A pre-sunrise visit is unforgettable. While this would be special in the summer months, the bracingly cold plunge into the fjord is the ultimate wake-up call – and the sauna will soon warm you back up. It will also help to kick-start your appetite for the impressively laden breakfast buffet back at the hotel, which includes everything from traditional smoked fish to waffles with local jam and brown cheese, a Norwegian delicacy where the milk is boiled until it becomes caramelised. Trust us, it’s much lovelier than it sounds. We also need to shout out the hotel's hot chocolates, laced with cognac and topped with mountains of hand-whipped cream. They'll become the incentive for any cold-weather activity you choose to do during the winter months.
STORFJORD
Set on a tree-packed hillside next to one of Norway’s most famous fjords and overlooking the Sunnmøre Alps, Storfjord is the kind of place you could happily settle into for days. A 30-minute drive from Ålesund, the hotel was hand-built from forest wood and, in classic Nordic style, every room has views of a fjord, mountain or forest. Bedrooms are chic, with plush furniture, enormous beds, cosy fireplaces and spacious living areas. Some have balconies where you can relax with a coffee in the morning or cocktail in the evening, keeping an eye out for the Northern Lights that can often be seen dancing across the skies.
While the team can help to plan activities and excursions like hikes, fjord tours and sea safaris via kayak, the main reason to book a stay here is relaxation. In the main building, you’ll find two vast drawing rooms with fireplaces, sink-in sofas and stacks of books and magazines that practically invite you to spend a long afternoon indoors. There’s also a sauna, hot tub and two treatment rooms to help you sink even deeper into a stay here.
Dining is another highlight. For an extra-special experience, The Boathouse is a private dining space right on the water. Cooked entirely over an open hearth, meals here are extraordinary: expect the likes of oysters with cream and dill oil; langoustines in the richest bisque imaginable with pickled pine shoots; monkfish with apple beurre blanc; scallops with cucumber and bergamot; and reindeer with Jerusalem artichokes. Back in the main restaurant, the simpler lunches and generous Sunday brunches – serving everything from gravlax to Norwegian-style fish tacos – show the same thoughtfulness and sense of occasion.
BERGEN
The Bergen Line is one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. The route runs between Oslo and Bergen across Hardangervidda, Europe’s highest mountain plateau. It’s one of the steepest railway lines in the world, passing through several popular ski resorts and villages, as well as the beautiful Hallingdal valley and Hardangervidda National Park, which has spectacular views of the mountains and Hardangerjokulen glacier, one of the largest in the country. If you make one stop, alight at Flå Bear Park to get up close with native wild animals, such as moose, lynx and wolves. After six hours, you’ll reach the city of Bergen, the capital of western Norway (and the country’s second-largest citywhere there’s plenty to see and do: the historic port is known as the Gateway to the Fjords and is famous for its Unesco-listed Bryggen wharf, with colourful wooden buildings.
After a long train journey, a night at Opus XVI will be just the tonic. In an impressive 19th-century building, this boutique hotel has 65 individually designed rooms with luxe decorative accents and plush furniture, as well as a great restaurant where you can enjoy long breakfasts, live jazz and afternoon tea, and candlelit dinners. For a special occasion, book a couple of nights in Room 406 which has skylights facing Mount Fløyen.
TROMSØ
During the winter months, the Northern Lights can be seen in one of Norway’s most beautiful cities. Spread over two islands (Tromsøy and Kvaløy), Tromsø is to the north of the country and has the highest probability of seeing the Northern Lights from September through to early April. Book a tour with a local guide or head on a ‘light safari’ to experience the display in full – you could combine your trip with whale watching or hiking. Discover the World offers a tour with a city break in Tromsø that ensures you enjoy the best parts of the region, including reindeer and husky sledding, and camping under the lights at a wilderness reserve. If you’d rather go it alone, install the Norway Lights app which helps you find the best time and place to spot the lights.
Seasoned campers can pitch up in the rural areas of Tromsø, but if you’d rather have a roof over your head, Malangen Resort is a great choice. Guests can choose to stay in a hotel room, sea view apartment or cabin. Premium cabins are located on coastal rocks, where you can wake up to the sounds of water just a few metres from your bedroom. Self-catering cabins sleep up to six across three bedrooms, all of which have great views of Tromsø’s fjords. Rent bikes from the resort to explore the area, then relax in one of the saunas or hot tubs in the evening. Camp Nikka, a mountainside wilderness centre is just a short walk from Malangen. They keep a close watch on the aurora borealis, so you’ll be notified when to head out to see the lights.
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