An Insider Shares Her Favourite Places In Provence
EAT & DRINK
Vista At Hôtel Lily Of The Valley
With sweeping views over the bay adjacent to St Tropez, Vista is all about location and design. The terrace, set beside a beautifully stripey pool, is the perfect setting for a long lunch or dinner. Chef Vincent Maillard delivers food as stunning as the interiors.
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Chez Madeleine, St Tropez
Tucked behind the fish market and the classic Café Senequier, Chez Madeleine is a local seafood bar serving ultra-fresh oysters, shellfish and a brilliant selection of wines from the well-stocked Caveau du Golf. It’s perfect for people-watching and soaking up the essence of the harbour.
Visit @CHEZ.MADELEINE
Le Jardin Secret or Le Bistro, Lou Calen Hotel, Cotignac
Our personal local in Cotignac, these two restaurants sit within the refurbished Lou Calen Hotel. With a green Michelin star and a menu focused on locally-sourced produce, it’s one of my favourite spots for relaxed yet refined dining. Make a day of it with a tasting at the nearby Mirabeau wine room and a browse through Escapade boutique, home to some of France’s coolest small design houses.
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Hotel Gallifet, Aix-en-Provence
Only open in the summer, the courtyard restaurant at this acclaimed art centre is a real gem. Run by my friends Kate and Nicolas, the kitchen features a rotating roster of guest chefs who focus on exceptional seasonal ingredients. We shot one of the chapters of my book here – it's a magical haven in the heart of the city.
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Toile Blanche, St Paul de Vence
Set just inland from the busy coastline of Cannes and Nice, this peaceful retreat is owned by three artist brothers. The setting is full of creative charm, and the Guinguette restaurant serves generous sharing platters perfect for a leisurely lunch. It’s informal, warm and quietly special.
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O’Fadoli Bar, Cotignac
A laidback favourite for locals and visitors alike, O’Fadoli serves everything from house-brewed beer to excellent cocktails and a very refreshing rosé spritz. It’s perfect for an early evening drink in Cotignac.
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La Passerelle, Cours Julien, Marseille
Recommended by my photographer Lizzie, this eclectic bar is a staple in Marseille’s buzzing Cours Julien district. It’s relaxed, authentic, and known for its unusual wine list. The perfect launchpad for a night out.
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Le Club 55, St Tropez
The legendary St Tropez beach club has a standing bar and a second more casual one right by the beach. Even if you’re not dining, it’s worth visiting for the energy, the people-watching and their lovely boutique before a sunset stroll along Pampelonne.
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Les Toits, Hotel de Paris, St Tropez
A fabulous rooftop spot with views over terracotta tiles and the sea beyond. Sip on expertly made cocktails and enjoy small plates as you watch the sun go down in style.
La Méduse, Aix-en-Provence
A sensational wine bar in the centre of Aix with a thoughtful nibbles menu and an exceptional selection of bottles, the focus here is on local producers and forgotten grape varieties, giving small-batch wines a platform in a very stylish setting.
Visit @LAMEDUSEAIX
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SLEEP
Lou Calen, Cotignac
Spread across several hectares in one of France’s most beautiful villages, this newly opened hotel is a holistic countryside escape. It has two restaurants, a swimming pool, tennis courts and a sustainability-focused ethos that sets it apart.
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Les Roches Rouges
An iconic mid-century hotel perched directly on the rocks, with views across the sea to the Île d’Or, this place has that chic, time-warp feeling, complete with one of the nicest natural rock pools this side of the Eden Rock.
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Domaine des Mésanges, Gassin
Hidden in the hills behind St Tropez, this property feels worlds away from anything else. The design leans into nature, with a mix of Balinese houses and eclectic cabins set in serene gardens. Perfect for a peaceful retreat with easy access to the buzz of St Tropez come nightfall. A great choice for a fun girls’ trip.
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Le Moulin, Lourmarin
Think of this as a beautiful base from which to explore this postcard-perfect town. The old olive mill makes for an atmospheric stay, and both the in-house restaurant and breakfast set-up make the most of the building’s historic charm.
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SHOP
Escapade, Cotignac
Curated by Anne Classen, this is one of the chicest concept stores in the region. Expect a blend of under-the-radar French labels, local crafts and Moroccan finds in an elegant, contemporary space.
Visit @ESCAPADE_COTIGNAC
Vanessa Sitbon, St Tropez
This local label specialises in floaty peasant blouses, breezy dresses and silk trousers – all in the sunny, vibrant colours of the Riviera. It's the kind of shop you leave wanting everything.
Visit @VANESSASITBON_
Pôterie du Château, Salernes
A ceramicist’s paradise. Owner Ghislain makes all the pieces by hand, combining vintage inspiration with fresh colours. If you’re a fan of Provençal pottery, it’s absolutely worth the detour.
Visit @CERAMIC.LAMERAND
Souleiado, Aix-En-Provence
Once the go-to brand for Provençal prints, Souleiado has re-emerged with a more modern flair. The silk blouses in ‘Les Indiennes’ patterns look beautiful with linen skirts and leather belts, and the leather baskets (lined in their signature fabrics) are particularly special.
Visit SOULEIADO.COM
DO & SEE
L’Estagnol / Cap Nègre Beach Walk
The minute you arrive in Provence you will notice the light; the luminosity is so different, it’s like a life energy injection. Then the plants, the beautiful flowers, the scent of the sea or the magic of the gentle rolling hills. It’s so stunning, yet it’s very natural and relaxed in most places. One of my favourite spots is L’Estagnol, a dreamy collection of Mediterranean bays, great for families and hikers alike. You can walk as much or as little as you please, then enjoy a grilled fish or pizza at the relaxed L’Estagnol restaurant.
Aix-en-Provence Flea Market
Held every Saturday, this bustling market is a treasure trove of vintage finds and pre-loved gems. Arrive early and bring a big bag.
Lac de Sainte-Croix & Verdon Gorge
Escape the heat and paddle in the cool turquoise waters of this vast lake. After swimming, head to Bistro de Midi in Bauduen for a long, languid Provençal lunch.
Cotignac
For an authentic Provençal village experience, visit our home village of Cotignac, a true hidden gem. Set at the foot of a dramatic cliff, it’s a charming spot lined with restaurants and boutiques shaded by majestic plane trees. You can eat beneath their leafy canopy, pour yourself a chilled glass of rosé, and let the rest of the world melt away for a few hours. Other nearby villages worth exploring include Tourtour, known as ‘the village in the sky’, and on the other side of Aix-en-Provence, the Luberon treasures of Lourmarin and Bonnieux
St Paul de Vence
This is another must-visit region. Of course, it’s well known, but I love St Paul de Vence, home to numerous artists as well as the fabulous Fondation Maeght, where you can easily spend half a day within its walls and gardens. This is where last year’s Jacquemus show was hosted.
At Home in Provence: Recipes and Stories from Life in the South of France by Jeany Cronk (£27, Hardie Grant Books) is available to buy now.
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